Had to remove part of my subfloor, now I have NO idea what to do...please help!

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Nukeman

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Take the time to do the blocking right. Snow Loads. Roofing Loads. Maintence Workers. Falling trees and branches. You never know when the ceiling or roof will be stressed. What is not sagging today might in three years if the conditions are just right.

None of those apply. Any of those roof loads are transferred to load bearing walls. It is very unlikely that a non-load bearing wall will protect anything. Even if a branch managed to happen to miss all load bearing structures and hit the non-load bearing wall..it is typically only supported with 3/4" ply..how much protection does that serve?

You can do like RSCB shows, but there is more there than really needed. You could do something like these:

-blue is the hidden joists (back under the walls)
- red is exposed
- black is blocking (16" o.c.)
option1.jpg

or something like this..
option2.jpg

The cross-hatched areas would be 3/4" ply, say 6" or 8" wide. Spread wood glue and place under the seams. Screw plywood on each side of the seam to laminate the patch to the existing ply.

You can do either way or some combination of the two. The idea is to support the seam to prevent deflection there.
 

Jadnashua

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John tends to always say the sky is falling...

As to the foam pan...the floor DOES need to be level and flat before y0u install the pan, but you have a couple of ways to deal with that if it isn't...you could scab some 2x material to the side of the low joists, or plane down the crowned ones, or, you could use some cement based floor leveling material. The thinset under the pan is only there to ensure there's a full, even support of the pan. Any bonding it does to the floor is secondary - the walls and curb, plus all of the weight bearing down on it will contain it. Think of a typical pan...it has a layer of plastic or tar paper on the floor, some lath nailed to the floor, then the deckmud packed down on top of it...IOW, it's not bonded to anything rigidly. The only time a pan is bonded in place and it's important that it is, is when doing a BONDED mudbed over a slab (that's the reason they call it bonded! They bond it so that it can be made thinner and still stay together). Otherwise, it's essentially just floating there. John has declared anything made by Schluter is bad, so take that with a grain of salt - he and their tech support do not see eye-to-eye (and for good reason, at least in my mind).
 

Koa

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I'm not sure from the picture if three studs are exposed on the left and right sides but if they can be, what about cutting the floor out so it flush with the stud plates, glue and screw a sheet of ply onto the three studs that extends down past the sub floor about 6". Ceiling to below floor. Then glue and bolt a 2X6 to ply the length or longer of the cut out flooring. Now you have transferred some of the load to the outer studs that are supported by the ply and you have a surface to screw the new subfloor to.
 

JohnfrWhipple

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Question for the group. How many of you have had a structural engineer on site to look at exactly this problem. I did two summers back.

I have all ready told you the answer I was given. Counter Balance has put a sketch in. What's the debate?

Sorry the answer means you need to do more framing..... You should not have under cut the sub floor to begin with.


If the old floor was rot. Then this is just part of the fix.

Deck-Blocking.jpg

Red bits new blocking for this deck illustration. These I would use 2"x4" or 2"x6". Where the plumbing line drains you might need a 2"x8" or 2"x10".
 
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