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Great info!
Well, this flange is for inside 4", outside 3", so perhaps there are two similar "stops" or bevels as you call it, on non level flanges? One on the outside (for inside fits), and one on the inside (for outside fits)?
Is the reason for this stop to keep the pipe from exiting the flange and sitting proud of it and the floor? Similar to a stop in a pipe coupling?
Your other link brought up a question I've had about stubbing out the toilet pipe. That gent's thought of tiling around the proud pipe, and then attempting to saw it even with the floor would, to me, have been a clear no-no. Is there an accepted standard as to how far short of the finished floor a stubbed out DWV pipe should extend so as not to either be too short, or too long for the final flange seating? I guess that depends on how far a pipe can go into whichever flange one uses. I'm going to err on the too short side. As long as there is at least 2" of pipe being surrounded by flange, I hope I'll be good.
Thanks for your help Jeff! You've confirmed what Reach4 wrote.
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Jeff H Young
In the Trades
Can't really think of a good reason for the bevel or stop but it would add strength to it some times it keeps the flange from going down as far. The TKO Terry shows above and that he likes is likely for this very reason . I can't see an advantage to flanges that have the bevel from an installation point of view .
I think it was to make the flange stronger by allowing extra material at what could be a stress point. I think they figured the installer could clear space.
"of course we have standards for that. Dozens of them -- all different."
But seriously, it is done more than one way. Some glue the closet flange in place before the finished floor is in place. That is not one of the better ways IMO.
Jeff H Young
In the Trades
I dont like that way either but when building new homes here closet flange must be installed for rough plumbing inspection (befor drywall) so on tract homes owner decides what flooring goes in. typicaly the cheapest option is vinyl , many home owners opt for the vinyl and imediatly after close of escrow have there own floor installers come often cheaper than builder charges. plus many times house hasent even sold . too many variables Sometimes we set toilets on raw wood or concrete as well"of course we have standards for that. Dozens of them -- all different."
But seriously, it is done more than one way. Some glue the closet flange in place before the finished floor is in place. That is not one of the better ways IMO.
So plumber has no choice put flange down flat on floor.
Ideally the plumber would be asked to leave a pipe sticking up, and then return after the finished floor is down. But that is two trips, and the builder doesn't want to pay for two trips.
If the plumber were to put a 4 inch by 3 deep code blue in place, that could be adjusted up or down a tad if later needed. If more adjustment was needed, that could be replaced by a 2 inch or 4 inch deep if the predicted floor thickness did not work out. But the downside is that the code blues might cost up to 10x what a glued-on flange costs.
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