Goulds 3AB2 booster pump issue

[jsimon7777]

I have a well pump leading to a storage tank leading to a Goulds 3AB2 setup. It's about ten years old.

A month ago, the pump stopped running. It would start then stop and give the five blink error code for a short circuit, which is:

This fault can be caused by:
• Electrical failure of the motor.
• Electrical failure of wiring between controller and motor.
Verify the error by turning power to controller off for 1 minute and then on.
If error persists, motor and wiring between controller and motor must be
checked. Turn power off for 5 minutes. Remove the three motor wires from
the terminal block. Check wiring and motor for shorting phase to phase and
phase to ground. See Section 5 Insulation and Winding Resistance Tests for
details. Refer to motor’s manual for information on resistance readings

There was a nearby leak in the well house, which I repaired, and the room was very wet, so I have run off the well pump directly for a month to let it dry and because I kept forgetting about it. I did a resistance check with about 5 feet of what I think is 10 gauge wire, and it shows .7 ohms red to black, 1.1 red to yellow, and 1.0 black to yellow of resistance across the pump wires. That seems very high, but maybe I'm reading wrong.

Right now, the pump turns on, runs for a couple of seconds at a low speed, and then shuts off. The system tries once more then gives the four-blink error code for overcurrent. The manual says:

This fault can be caused by:
• Installing wrong motor (wrong voltage or phase).
• Mechanical binding from debris in pump.
• Electrical or mechanical failure of the motor.
• Incorrect setting of “MOTOR OVERLOAD SETTING (SFA)” switch.
A false “over current” error will be displayed if the switch is set too low.
• Pump wire insulation breaking down. Check insulation with megger.
Verify the error by turning power to controller off for 1 minute and then on.
Pump/Motor must be checked if fault persists.

Motor is installed fine. It turns itself and I can turn it by hand, so there's no mechanical binding. Overload was not adjusted, but I tried different settings and ramp rates. Doesn't make a difference.

Any ideas other than just replacing it?

Thanks!

 

[jsimon7777]

From some Reddit advice, I'll order a megger, a megohmeter.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Valveman]

I have a well pump leading to a storage tank leading to a Goulds 3AB2 setup. It's about ten years old.

A month ago, the pump stopped running. It would start then stop and give the five blink error code for a short circuit, which is:

There was a nearby leak in the well house, which I repaired, and the room was very wet, so I have run off the well pump directly for a month to let it dry and because I kept forgetting about it. I did a resistance check with about 5 feet of what I think is 10 gauge wire, and it shows .7 ohms red to black, 1.1 red to yellow, and 1.0 black to yellow of resistance across the pump wires. That seems very high, but maybe I'm reading wrong.

Right now, the pump turns on, runs for a couple of seconds at a low speed, and then shuts off. The system tries once more then gives the four-blink error code for overcurrent. The manual says:

Motor is installed fine. It turns itself and I can turn it by hand, so there's no mechanical binding. Overload was not adjusted, but I tried different settings and ramp rates. Doesn't make a difference.

Any ideas other than just replacing it?

Thanks!

Sorry for your problem. Here is another thread where variable speed pumps are discussed. It doesn't really matter which brand you have as all pump companies are complicit in the VFD scam.

Franklin Subdrive 3W Utility UT3P Issues - When "Upgrading" Goes Wrong

In 2024, I upgraded my well pump setup with a new Franklin SubDrive Utility UT3P System, expecting improved performance and reliability. Instead, I’ve faced a cascade of issues that have made me question this so-called “upgrade.” Just two months after installation, the SubDrive unit failed...

terrylove.com

These big companies are in business to make money, which is contrary to saving their customers money. Only about 2 out of 10 VFD pump system last long enough to satisfy the customer. 6 out of 10 customers do not know pump systems should last 20-30 years, as they are conditioned to replace stuff regularly and just think that is normal. The other 2 out of 10 customers are like you and rightfully complain about the cost, constant problems, and short life of a VFD pump system.

Pump companies do not want you to have 30 years of trouble free service from an inexpensive normal pump system. The more trouble you have, the more money they make. They push these VFD systems as being more efficient to make you think they are worth the added expense and all the trouble. But in reality it cost more per gallon to pump water with a variable speed pump than a normal pump with a regular pressure tank/pressure switch.

I see that the 3AB2 is already obsolete. This is very common as every year they come up with new model VFD's that are supposed to fix all the problems with the old models. The problem is that mother nature or the laws of physics will never let them solve all the problems. There are just many inherent problems with varying a pumps speed. While you maybe able to find the problem, replace a transducer, board, or some component and get it working again this time, it is just a matter of time before you will have problems again. The only way to solve all the problems with a variable speed pump is to replace it with a normal constant speed pump. I have one that hasn't been touched since 1982, and because it has a Cycle Stop Valve, it gave me a strong constant pressure shower this morning again.

The Cycle Stop Valve is a disruptive product to the pump industry because it makes normal pumps last even longer than the 20-30 years they previously lasted. The fact that the CSV delivers even better constant pressure than a VFD really irritates the major pump companies and they will say anything to keep you from even trying one.