Goodman cased evaporator installation

Users who are viewing this thread

ExpertTeknishun

New Member
Messages
3
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
New Jersey
Need a little (basic) information regarding the installation of a Goodman cased evaporator. I'm pretty familiar with furnace installations, but because I only (briefly) worked in residential HVAC in a cool climate, I never really got any A/C installation experience.

My question is this: In an upflow situation, how do you guys attach cased evaporators to the furnace below, and to the plenum above? The evap drain pan is uncomfortably close to where I would expect to screw casing to furnace. In certain manuals, I've seen that the evaporator "doesn't need to be anchored with screws". I've also seen a couple videos where guys just lay a bead of silicone around the connection between furnace and evap.

Similar question when attaching the plenum to the top of the evaporator casing. The Goodman evap comes with some odd sliding lip at the top of the casing, but each sliding side is only held in place by one screw, so there is some play in each piece...not exactly an easy thing to screw into when trying to set screws from the outside of the plenum.

Anyone familiar with Goodman installations? Any tips, preferences?


Thanks...
 

Stuff

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,221
Reaction score
130
Points
63
Location
Pennsylvania
I assume you are using Goodman furnace? Most times the plastic pan is actually in far enough that I can drill through the outside case and the furnace flange and use four long screws horizontally. Just don't go too deep while drilling and you will be fine.

For the top I have the shop make a plenum with a double folded outward lip. There is a name for that but I never remember. That lip gets screwed to the case with the sliding bars just being used for positioning. Screws go vertically down into the top of the evap case. If no lip on the plenum then just 4 S cleats - make 2 longer and fold over ends like you do with drives. You can then put screws in though I skip as it is a bit tough - 5 layers to go through.

Some high-temp silicon should seal any leaks.
 

ExpertTeknishun

New Member
Messages
3
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
New Jersey
I assume you are using Goodman furnace? Most times the plastic pan is actually in far enough that I can drill through the outside case and the furnace flange and use four long screws horizontally. Just don't go too deep while drilling and you will be fine.

For the top I have the shop make a plenum with a double folded outward lip. There is a name for that but I never remember. That lip gets screwed to the case with the sliding bars just being used for positioning. Screws go vertically down into the top of the evap case. If no lip on the plenum then just 4 S cleats - make 2 longer and fold over ends like you do with drives. You can then put screws in though I skip as it is a bit tough - 5 layers to go through.

Some high-temp silicon should seal any leaks.

Thanks, Stuff, for your response. I do appreciate the pointers.

Yes, Goodman furnace under Goodman cased evaporator. Goodman is the only brand available at my local supply house, so the equipment chose me more than I chose it...hahaha.

Another odd thing: Goodman manual says the drain pan in an uncased coil (not my situation, thankfully) needs to be at least two inches above the top of the furnace, yet their cased coil drain pan is only about 1.5 inches from top of the furnace. I don't understand that logic. Any opinion about that? I have heard some people say that even a cased evaporator should have a field installed spacer-transition between it and the furnace? I don't want to make such a thing, but I also don't want a melting and/or burning drain pan on my hands.
 

Stuff

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,221
Reaction score
130
Points
63
Location
Pennsylvania
There are millions of cased coils sitting directly on top of gas furnaces so don't worry about it. Real problem with heat is if it is an oil burner. Putting a gap between the furnace and the coil does give you some room to more easily put a hole to measure TSP and to later have a panel to access underside of coil to clean.
 

ExpertTeknishun

New Member
Messages
3
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
New Jersey
Thanks again, Stuff. It's a natural gas furnace, so no worries about that.

Yeah, I wanted to have better access to measure TSP, but I was so exhausted by this job that the idea of field fabricating one more thing was just too much to consider. The job was pulling an old boiler out of the laundry/mechanical room (laying tile/patching and painting walls while everything was disconnected), moving the h2o heater, installing furnace with coil (condenser to be installed later), and last but not least, replacing the leaky old ductwork that was connected to the old A/C air handler in the attic, with new duct runs that penetrate the ceiling into the laundry room. Definitely not bragging (cuz it took me so long damn long...haha), but I did the job all by myself. Saved a bunch of money, but i'm paying for it with muscle aches...haha.
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks