GFCI outlet issue

[Twin688]

Attempting to install a GFCI outlet in bathroom. Tried to two different Outlets, both not working. Verified Power is coming to outlet. The light on the outlet is not lit at all. I've watched many tutorial and troubleshooting videos nothing is working. Will attempt to attach a photo of the outlet and wiring. There is one gray wire, one orange wire and a ground wire. Any help or advice would be appreciated, thanks

 

[Reach4]

What is the model number?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Cacher_Chick]

How did you determine which wire is neutral and which is powered?

Which connections are you using on the receptacle?

How are you testing it?

 

[Twin688]

Thanks for responding. The outlet is a Leviton 15amp Self-Test SmartlockPro Slim Duplex GFCI

 

[Twin688]

How did you determine which wire is neutral and which is powered?

Which connections are you using on the receptacle?

How are you testing it?

I tested with the Klein tools ncvt2 voltage tester. It gave me the same response for both wires. At this point I know it seems like I shouldn't have taken this project on, but electricians in my area want almost $200 just for coming out. I'm the type that usually tries to tackle things myself except when it comes to electricity. Just feels like it's something very simple that I'm doing wrong that can easily be corrected. I'm using the line connections on the receptacle fyi.

 

[Twin688]

What is the model number?

Thanks for responding. The outlet is a Leviton 15amp Self-Test SmartlockPro Slim Duplex GFCI

 

[Reach4]

I tested with the Klein tools ncvt2 voltage tester.

I have one of those. I have not found it useful. Does it light up for the ground terminal? Does it light up for your dog?

 

[Cacher_Chick]

Buy or borrow a real voltmeter if you are going to tackle any kind of electrical work.

The neutral wire must be connected to the silver screw on the receptacle. No wires should be connected to the load terminals that should have been taped over when the receptacle came out of the box.

On some GFCI receptacles, there is a light that comes on if the outlet has failed and needs to be replaced. I am not sure what the purpose of the light on your receptacle serves.

 

[Twin688]

Buy or borrow a real voltmeter if you are going to tackle any kind of electrical work.

The neutral wire must be connected to the silver screw on the receptacle. No wires should be connected to the load terminals that should have been taped over when the receptacle came out of the box.

On some GFCI receptacles, there is a light that comes on if the outlet has failed and needs to be replaced. I am not sure what the purpose of the light on your receptacle serves.

Thank you for your reply. The tape was left on the load terminals. Will try once more with new outlet then defer to electrician.

 

[Jadnashua]

Assuming you can identify the ground, you only have two choices for the other leads. In fact, it should work just fine without the ground at all, but it does add another layer of safety if the ground wire is attached.

When measuring with a multimeter, you should get 120vac from the hot to neutral and from hot to ground. There should not be more than a volt or two (less is better) between ground and neutral.

 

[ImOld]

Just the color of the wires should have given everyone pause for thought! Who knows what relationship they have to each other. If these relationships are not correct then the GFCI will not work. Just measuring voltages isn't going to make it.

 

[Jadnashua]

If that circuit uses the same cable back to the breaker panel, you could look at the connections there to determine which lead is hot and which is neutral.

 

[ImOld]

Well, OP, time to call an electrician. And I don't mean a handyman. The colors of your wires don't match any that would be in a home electrical system. I'll bet the farm you won't see them in your main or sub-panel. No light on the GFCI means you don't even have a complete circuit. Even so, your next problem is GFCI's look to see if the power is coming and going on the same circuit wires back to the panel. If that neutral is connected back to the breaker, it could also be shared on another circuit and the GFCI still will not work.

 

[Reach4]

If that neutral is connected back to the breaker, it could also be shared on another circuit and the GFCI still will not work.

A shared neutral on the way to the GFCI will not cause the GFCI to not work.

I suspect there is not 120 VAC across the line terminals.

 

[ImOld]

Ah, semantics and details! You are correct on the input/line side! Putting aside the problems on the line side, you cannot put multiple, random neutrals, officially they are now referred to as 'grounded conductors' on the load side of a GFCI. Current leaving the line hot side, normally a black wire, must equal the returning current on the neutral, normally a white wire. If over a 30ma difference, then the GFCI trips. That's the way it works to protect the clueless DIY'r and his 'maybe it's this one' wiring techniques. It's shocking what some of them can accomplish!

 

[WorthFlorida]

Are you adding one or replacing it?

FYI.. a new GFCI must be reset. They come in the trip mode. Sometimes it takes some force to push in the reset button until you hear a click. Sometimes you need to use the tip of a screw driver to really push it in. If the hot lead and neutral are reversed, the GFCI will not reset.