Generator issue with well pump?????

Users who are viewing this thread

Bowie

New Member
Messages
9
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Renton
I have a powerboss 7000 surge to 12000 gas generator with 1000hrs and it seems to be working ok but I am sure it will give out soon.
https://www.electricgeneratorsdirect.com/PowerBOSS-30220-Portable-Generator/p1056.html

I was given a 6120 surge to 6500 Northstar diesel generator by my grandfather who never used it...
https://www.absolutegenerators.com/northstar-165930-6500w-10-hp-diesel-generator

My question is why will the diesel generator not run my well pump???

Well pump specs are 1hp and it is suppose to run at 4000 watts on startup(currently hooked up to a dual pull 20amp circuit). So my Northstar should run the well pump but it does not. The Northstar runs my cooktop which is a dual pull 30am circuit though??? I have tried shutting off all the breakers except the well circuit and that does not do the trick? Any help would be much appreciated. Thank you.
 

Bowie

New Member
Messages
9
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Renton
I am positive. It runs my 240 electric cooktop just fine. It is so weird...I shut everything else off and it still wont run the pump. It seems like it has something to do with the pressure switch maybe?
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,798
Reaction score
4,412
Points
113
Location
IL
3-wire pump? Maybe a new start capacitor would make the pump more willing to start.
 

Bowie

New Member
Messages
9
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Renton
My other generator runs it just fine....so that is where I get confused??? I am not sure if I have a three wire pump or not. I am assuming I do because it is 240. Where is the start capacitor normally located? It does have a pump saver unit attached to the wiring but I dont think that would have an affect on it working off the generator.
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,798
Reaction score
4,412
Points
113
Location
IL
My other generator runs it just fine....so that is where I get confused??? I am not sure if I have a three wire pump or not. I am assuming I do because it is 240. Where is the start capacitor normally located? It does have a pump saver unit attached to the wiring but I dont think that would have an affect on it working off the generator.
If it is a submersible pump, that would be in the control box (which is not the PumpSaver box). A 2-wire pump would not have a control box. However some PumpSaver modules go into the control box. Got some model numbers?

If you have a jet pump, I don't know.

I would not assume that a Symcom PumpSaver would have no effect. I am not saying it would or would not.
 

Bowie

New Member
Messages
9
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Renton
It is a 140' deep submerged pump. It does have a control box and I saw the guy put the pump saver module in the control box at least I thought... The diesel generator does not lug down it is like it does not notice the pump is there. The diesel gen runs my cooktop just fine and really does not bog down at all. My gas one bogs down for a second and then the auto throttle takes over to adjust for added watts. I will work on model numbers and get back in a few hours as I am not home right now. Thank you to everyone for the help!
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,798
Reaction score
4,412
Points
113
Location
IL
Valveman's question about lugging down was important. The fact that the lugging does not occur probably means the problem is not the start capacitor.

Maybe see what the voltage out of the pumpsaver to the pump is.

It is a 140' deep submerged pump. It does have a control box and I saw the guy put the pump saver module in the control box at least I thought...
You could look into that box. See a big cylinder? It might have markings such as 105-126 uF.

Those things have a limited life. They are usually non-polarized electrolytic capacitors, if that means something to you. It's ok if that doesn't mean something to you..... it just explains the limited life. Some boxes have another capacitor called a run capacitor. Those usually don't have a limited life.

But right now, that capacitor is not your problem it would seem.

I don't know why the one generator works with your system and the other does not. I am thinking to check voltages black to yellow and red to yellow on the way to the pump.
 
Last edited:

Valveman

Cary Austin
Staff member
Messages
14,599
Reaction score
1,296
Points
113
Location
Lubbock, Texas
Website
cyclestopvalves.com
A bad start cap would make the genset lug down even more. The fact that it is not lugging at all, means the pump is not trying to draw any current. I am guessing you have something wired wrong and it is not giving voltage to the pump. If you get 240V to the pump control box, something will happen.
 

Boycedrilling

In the Trades
Messages
837
Reaction score
185
Points
43
Location
Royal City, WA
First thing you need to understand is that not all generators are the same. I have a 3200 watt generator that I can run a 1 hp pump on. I also have a 5000 watt generator that will not run the same pump. Can be a number of reasons. Internally regulated versus externally regulated. Can be the trip setting of the circuit breaker on the generator.

A single phase pump motor draws about 3-6 times as many amps during the first 1/2 second as it does when it is running at speed. Service factor amps for a Franklin 1 hp motor are 10.4 amps. That means it could pull as much as 60 amps the first 1/2 second. If you have an instantaneous trip breaker, it would do just that.
 

Valveman

Cary Austin
Staff member
Messages
14,599
Reaction score
1,296
Points
113
Location
Lubbock, Texas
Website
cyclestopvalves.com
Yeah but it should either trip the breaker or lug down the generator when you energize the pump. Not lugging or tripping I still don't think you have applied power to the pump. Pressure switch not closed, broken wire, loose connection?
 

Bowie

New Member
Messages
9
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Renton
Thanks for all the help. I drained the system yesterday and had my Diesel gen running and nothing was going on with the pump. It ran my cooktop just fine... I then hooked up my gas one and it ran the pump just fine. Just seems like maybe it does have to do with the generator somehow even though it is brand new and seems to run other 240 appliance just fine.

I attached a photo of my control box... the circuit breaker on the main panel is a dual pull 20 amp. Just for reference my cooktop is a 30 amp dual pull.
 

Attachments

  • well pump.JPG
    well pump.JPG
    76.4 KB · Views: 238

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,798
Reaction score
4,412
Points
113
Location
IL
Your Franklin 280 108 4915 control box has a start capacitor and no run capacitor. That does not hurt the ability to start.

Measure the voltages into the control box from the Diesel generator with the pump connected. If OK, measure the output voltages.

There are yellow and red lights on the Pumptec. What do they do during this no-start time?
 

Valveman

Cary Austin
Staff member
Messages
14,599
Reaction score
1,296
Points
113
Location
Lubbock, Texas
Website
cyclestopvalves.com
It is impossible to check voltage inside one of those control boxes with the lid on. With the lid off, check to see that you have 240V on L1 and L2. Then plug in the lid and check amperage. If you have 240V on L1 and L2, when you plug in the lid something will happen. Either the box will click and buzz, the overload will trip, or the pump will come on.
 

Bowie

New Member
Messages
9
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Renton
How do I check the amps with the lid closed? I will run these voltage checks and get back with the forum. I will try and run these tests later today. Thanks again for all the help really appreciate it.
 

Valveman

Cary Austin
Staff member
Messages
14,599
Reaction score
1,296
Points
113
Location
Lubbock, Texas
Website
cyclestopvalves.com
Anywhere you can get the amp meter clip around one of the hot wires will work. You can strip a wire back below the control box, open the pressure switch and pull a wire up, or take off the breaker box cover and find the wire coming out of the breaker.
 

Bowie

New Member
Messages
9
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Renton
So I traced voltage all the way to the wires that head to the pump and it is hot with 130 volts on both leads heading to the pump. I have posted a picture of the inside of my control box. I do not have an amp meter just a voltage reader.
 

Attachments

  • pump2.JPG
    pump2.JPG
    85.2 KB · Views: 244

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,798
Reaction score
4,412
Points
113
Location
IL
So I traced voltage all the way to the wires that head to the pump and it is hot with 130 volts on both leads heading to the pump. I have posted a picture of the inside of my control box. I do not have an amp meter just a voltage reader.
You want these voltages:
  1. L1 to L2.
  2. Y to B
  3. Y to R.
 

Midriller

Member
Messages
85
Reaction score
7
Points
18
Location
Galesburg, Mi
My guess is that your pump saver is seeing a larger voltage drop on start up than it would like to see and is tripping into pump protection. grab a new control box cover and pop it on and try it. if im right the pump should run. If not you have a spare control box.
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks