Galvanized Tank, remove it?

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Edgar Gutierrez

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Hey all, i have a situation i could use some help on. i have a 350 gallon galvanized tank that is set up as follows. Water is fed from 100' well to the bottom the tank. At the same level ( actually about two feet from the bottom of the floor is where it feeds in) where it feeds in, on opposite side of tank there is a spigot where a water hose was attached. about a foot from the top of the tank there is a outlet that sends water to tank up hill about 100' where water is held, filtered, then pumper to house. opposite outlet is a pressure gauge. there are check valves before galvanized tank and after gate valve at outlet side where a union is between tank and one way valve . I dont know if its ok to run just the way it is, i believe pressure was built up by emptying tank then opening union to allow air in as tank was draining. there is no pressure relief valve any where on this system and the water is shut off when a float valve in upper storage tank restricts flow. i currently use a float switch with a two wire submersible pump that doesn't require a pressure switch to activate the pump via the pump control box. The owner has bought a new three wire with pump control box and wants to use the galvanized tank. (it is currently pumping directly to holding tank and bypassing galvanized tank) My question then is, what needs to be included to make this a safe and trouble free system? Or do we remove tank and buy a bladder type tank. I believe they used the galvanized because the water is very turbid.
 

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With the outlet of the tank being close to the top, I think they made a sand trap out of that galv tank. It is not being used as a pressure tank. Water is just flowing through it on the way to your storage tank with float switch. Turbid water settling tank is probably there for a reason.
 

Edgar Gutierrez

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Valveman thanks for that quick response. Is there a way to use a float switch with a three wire submersible pump? The grundfos pump that was in there stopped working and so the change. The reason i ask is that im thinking that using a pressure switch will prob not work as the pressure of filling that sand trap and then pushing uphill a 100' will be to much?
 

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The 100' foot uphill isn't the problem. 100' is the same as 43 PSI. The problem is you don't have a valve to shut at the storage tank so the pressure cannot get to 60 PSI, which is needed to shut off a pressure switch.

Yes you can use a float switch with a 3 wire motor. You just need a $30 relay for the float switch to engage, then the relay cuts power to both lines going to the 3 wire control box. You can probably also just use the float switch on one of the 2 wires going to the 3 wire control box, but it is better to use a relay to disconnect both wires.
 

Edgar Gutierrez

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Would you give me a link or tell me where i could buy one, id like to get it before i go out, its a two hour remote hunting property. i want to at least knoe what i will be dealing with before making that trip. And i thank you for your help
 

Frankyg101

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Valveman, I had to re register it wouldn't let me sign back in. Can you help me with how to wire that, the Dayton relay came in a box with absolutely no info, got it from Grainger.
Probably for pros only that already know what they are doing.
 

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On the bottom left of this drawing shows how to wire a relay.
250una0.jpg
 

Edgar Gutierrez

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Thank You so much. So how would the pump control box wire up to the relay? or can i just wire the three lines (four, if i count the ground) to the relay directly? there by eliminating the control box all together?
 
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The above diagram is for a 2 wire motor. If you have a 3 wire motor with a control box you wire the L1 and L2 out of the relay to L1 and L2 in the control box. Then the four wires that go down hole to the motor attach to the control box.
 

Frankyg101

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So a question, and I appreciate your patience, now that I have the relay in my hand. I am going to wire it up and make notes as I am driving up tomorrow, kind of a dry run.
So looking at the relay and holding it like on the image in the link you provided. There are a total of 8 screws where connections could be made, the only markings are L and R which if they stand for left right, which I doubt, it would be upside down. If I'm holding it right and comparing it to the diagram which you shared which posts would I use or not use?
 
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Reach4

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img_1.jpg


It does not matter which coil terminal you use (either side), but you must not connect them together.
 

Reach4

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Am I assuming correctly that "coil"in my application, will be the control box?
Control box L1 and L2 would be driven by L1OUT and L2OUT.

Coil is the electromagnet coil that operates the relay. When you provide 230 VAC across the two coil terminals, the relay energizes, and L1IN is connected to L1OUT, and L2IN is connected to L2OUT. So that power to the coil would be controlled by your float switch, or whatever else controls the relay.


I am only explaining what the relay terminals are. You need to understand what your circuit does and how you will connect them. Are you using a float switch that can switch the 230 volts?

I suggest that you draw and post the schematic diagram of what you plan to do.
 
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Frankyg101

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I am using the relay that you labeled for me, with a dayton 13amp 115/230 vac 60 hz float switch
The pump is a 3/4 hp Flotec 3wire submersible that is wired to a faradyne 1 hp 230 v control box. Or will be wired to it. What was existing was a grundfos 2 wire pump. The wiring for the float switch that is in the tank is already ran the 100' to the well head. My thought was to just hook up those two wires to that relay and that relay to the control box. There is power at top at the tank and power (panels with available circuits) down at well. The float switch has a plug type ending that was cut off and wired directly to the grundfos cu200. Unfortunately that is all the notes I have as the cabin is a distance away and really I may just be in over my head. As far as what I had planned to do was take the same float switch with the plug intact(plug as in plug into outlet) send that 120 v to relay then plug in control box. I thought that somewhere on the relay I would connect 240v that would power the control box when switched on. Like I said I may be in to deep
 
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Valveman

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The relay would hook to those two wires at the storage tank, and the control box would go at the well head between the two wires coming from the relay and the 3 wires going down hole.
 

Frankyg101

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Thank you guys for all the help. I originally hooked it up 120v got the buzzing when the contacts opened. Quickly changed it to the correct voltage and that was that. You're patience was awesome!!!
 
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