Galvanized Since Waste Pipe Replacement/Repair

Users who are viewing this thread

Mark415

New Member
Messages
7
Reaction score
4
Points
3
Location
San Francisco
(edit--Galvanized SINK waste pipe...)
I am a former flooring contractor/carpenter, so I know my way around a home. Two days ago, I was away for 2 days, and the galvanized waste pipe under the kitchen sink started to leak. My wife called multiple plumbers, and finally got a guy to come out from a big firm in our area. The waste pipe has corrosion underneath (in the left side of the photo) and water is dripping out when the sink/dishwasher drain. The pipe needs replacement--I get that. House is 51 years old. The plumber quoted her $4700 for the repair without even looking behind the drywall and charged her a $199 estimate fee (she said he was a young kid who called his boss two times about the leak). I have others coming tomorrow (Monday) to take a look. Some questions for you pros:

1) Can this pipe be cut/removed at the p trap and inside the wall at the vertical to run a new pvc or copper pipe? (I know the galvanized waste lines in the house will all need replacement fairly soon, but I need to get the kitchen up and running).

2) On the right in the photo is another capped trap. Can a new waste line from the p trap be connected this other drain line (I assume the previous owners had a double sink many years ago?). We would then just cap the current line without having to cut into the wall.

Any help is appreciated. Having to get my kids to not use the sink, and not having a dishwasher, has made for a long weekend!

Thanks,
Mark
GetAttachmentThumbnail


GetAttachmentThumbnail
 
Last edited:

WorthFlorida

Clinical Trail on a Cancer Drug Started 1/31/24. ☹
Messages
5,726
Solutions
1
Reaction score
982
Points
113
Location
Orlando, Florida
Pictures are not viewable. Sure, cut the section out of the wall and use Fernco couplings. Use ABS or PVC san-tee or elbow to the vertical. It'll work to get you buy.
 

Mark415

New Member
Messages
7
Reaction score
4
Points
3
Location
San Francisco
Pictures are not viewable. Sure, cut the section out of the wall and use Fernco couplings. Use ABS or PVC san-tee or elbow to the vertical. It'll work to get you buy.

Thanks. I have an independent plumber coming in tomorrow so at least I know that the options are.
GetAttachmentThumbnail
 

Jeff H Young

In the Trades
Messages
8,753
Reaction score
2,164
Points
113
Location
92346
i know its expensive in the city , no pictures no idea the work in this particular instance but 5 g sounds overpriced. definately seek another bid
 

Mark415

New Member
Messages
7
Reaction score
4
Points
3
Location
San Francisco
Not sure why I can see the image, but others cannot. I guess I am wondering if I can use the second (right side) drain that has been capped. Could I cap the left waste line (corroded) and tap into the right one that has been capped for at least 16 years (and not corroded). Blue circle is current leak.

Sink Picture.jpg
 

WorthFlorida

Clinical Trail on a Cancer Drug Started 1/31/24. ☹
Messages
5,726
Solutions
1
Reaction score
982
Points
113
Location
Orlando, Florida
You description seemed that the pipe inside the wall was leaking. The picture shows to be just the tail pipe. It looks fixable from only under the sink. Not sure what the $4700 repair quote would be?
 

MACPLUMB

In the Trades
Messages
1,080
Reaction score
83
Points
48
Location
HOUSTON, TEXAS
Not sure why I can see the image, but others cannot. I guess I am wondering if I can use the second (right side) drain that has been capped. Could I cap the left waste line (corroded) and tap into the right one that has been capped for at least 16 years (and not corroded). Blue circle is current leak.

View attachment 76906
All you have to do is remove the Galv. pipe coming out of the wall take to hardware store or home depot get a replacement, some Teflon tape, and some pipe dope apply to end of pipe and screw back in, install new p-trap,
 

MACPLUMB

In the Trades
Messages
1,080
Reaction score
83
Points
48
Location
HOUSTON, TEXAS
All you have to do is remove the Galv. pipe coming out of the wall take to hardware store or home depot get a replacement, some Teflon tape, and some pipe dope apply to end of pipe and screw back in, install new p-trap,
That other pipe will be just as old as the first one
 

John Gayewski

In the Trades
Messages
4,324
Reaction score
1,319
Points
113
Location
Iowa
I'm betting the estimate was to do it right. Meaning replace all the bad pipe until you find some good pipe. An estimate is just that. If he started unscrewing your pipe and it came right apart with no problem and he immediately found good pipe in gonna doubt that the 4. 7 k would be charged. Worst case scenario is probably what they wanted to prepare you for. If I was quoting a price I'd probably have to call my boss, considering it's his company and he makes the final decision on price.
 

Mark415

New Member
Messages
7
Reaction score
4
Points
3
Location
San Francisco
i know its expensive in the city , no pictures no idea the work in this particular instance but 5 g sounds overpriced. definately seek another bid

I just facetimed with the plumber and showed him the situation. He said 2 hours and he will likely just tap into the unused waste line on the left. Hope it works out.

Sink Picture.jpg
 

Mark415

New Member
Messages
7
Reaction score
4
Points
3
Location
San Francisco
You description seemed that the pipe inside the wall was leaking. The picture shows to be just the tail pipe. It looks fixable from only under the sink. Not sure what the $4700 repair quote would be?

I am not sure either. My wife got the quote. The guy said "major band-aid repair" and work under slab. How would he know anything about what is going on under the slab if he never even looked behind the drywall? I think maybe he wanted to grab the $199 estimate fee and be done with it so he threw out a big number?
 

Mark415

New Member
Messages
7
Reaction score
4
Points
3
Location
San Francisco
Thanks again for all of the help in this thread. The plumber cut the corroded galvanized waste line and capped it. He then used a Fernco coupling to attach to the other unused waste line. I know its a quick and short-term fix, but it will buy me time until I see what needs to be done with all of the galvanized lines in the place. Only took about 2 hours total. Pics below.

Sink Picture.jpg
Plumbing Pic 1.jpg
Plumbing Pic 2.jpg
 

Jeff H Young

In the Trades
Messages
8,753
Reaction score
2,164
Points
113
Location
92346
don't know many details but glad you got at least a solid temp fix but if there are no leaks you might have years of trouble free service keep a bit of an eye on it . I really don't think the 4700 was valid but that's just my gut . I wouldn't want my family member getting a plumber like that out to their house
 

Mark415

New Member
Messages
7
Reaction score
4
Points
3
Location
San Francisco
don't know many details but glad you got at least a solid temp fix but if there are no leaks you might have years of trouble free service keep a bit of an eye on it . I really don't think the 4700 was valid but that's just my gut . I wouldn't want my family member getting a plumber like that out to their house

The plumber recommended redoing everything under the sink. All is 50 years old, and none of the shut off valves even turn, so I will probably get him back in a few months and get into the drywall to see what is back there. We might then be able to tap into the stack properly.
 

Jeff H Young

In the Trades
Messages
8,753
Reaction score
2,164
Points
113
Location
92346
yea looks like it needs maintenance to me as well. if the bathroom looks like that change all angle stops and faucet supplies
 

Sylvan

Still learning
Messages
2,757
Reaction score
689
Points
113
Location
New York
All you have to do is remove the Galv. pipe coming out of the wall take to hardware store or home depot get a replacement, some Teflon tape, and some pipe dope apply to end of pipe and screw back in, install new p-trap,
I often wondered why someone needed both Teflon TAPE and then pipe joint compound especially on a waste line.

I installed steam piping schedule 80 4" 125 PSI with just Permatex and never had a leak
 

Attachments

  • big.jpg
    big.jpg
    54.5 KB · Views: 81

John Gayewski

In the Trades
Messages
4,324
Reaction score
1,319
Points
113
Location
Iowa
I often wondered why someone needed both Teflon TAPE and then pipe joint compound especially on a waste line.

I installed steam piping schedule 80 4" 125 PSI with just Permatex and never had a leak
I recently went to a place with 46 leaks in their gas lines. The threads were fine, fittings fine. We checked and checked. I reassembled most of the piping with tape and dope and not a leak.

What happens over time as the piping moves is the threads will leak if they aren't made up as far as they should be. The tape is a secondary seal and the dope helps the tape slide into the joint.
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,795
Reaction score
4,413
Points
113
Location
IL
I installed steam piping schedule 80 4" 125 PSI with just Permatex and never had a leak
A 32 inch pipe wrench would help, but two of them would help a lot more. Right? I expect when you were tightening the pipes for real, it was pretty much always two wrenches.

People using short wrenches are going to have a hard time getting good torque.
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks