Frost proof faucet question

[Grinch]

I recently installed a new frost proof outdoor faucet.

This winter is the first one for it, it's the second of 2, the first one is original to the house, I installed
#2 to avoid running a 100 feet of hose.

Both work well in spring summer and fall, never had any need to use them in prolonged freezing weather until today.

So I went to turn open #2 and it wont turn. "frozen" in place. I thought my install was faulty so went to #1
faucet and tried to turn it. It is "frozen" in place as well.Weird I thought these would operate in winter, although
it has been cold recently, minus 15 Centigrade, daytime highs.

Maybe too cold?#1 faucet has the washer portion extending 10 inches into an open heated basement,the washer of #2 extends 10 inches into a well insulated wall cavity on an external wall.

I'm sure that #2 has the required slope to drain the tube, but can't speak for #1 as I didn't install it but it seems coincidental
that both have the same symptoms.

I don't want to force the handles in case the washers have frosted up with ice internally .

I've been thinking of squirting wd40 around the stem/nut assembly or using a hair dryer to gently heat it.

Am I just expecting too much from these faucets in these Arctic conditions?

 

[Valveman]

They just need to be below the frost line, no matter how deep that is. There should be no water above the valve (washer) at the bottom. But if the valve at the bottom is not below the frost line it will freeze. Don't think wd40 on the packing nut will do anything. Many times the hydrant is teed into the underground line and elbowed up until it is higher than the main line. If it is as deep as the main line it should not freeze. Running water at the house for a long time may help thaw the spot where the hydrant is teed in.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

I'm sure that #2 has the required slope to drain the tube, but can't speak for #1 as I didn't install it but it seems coincidental
that both have the same symptoms.

Did you disconnect the hoses before the freeze?

 

[Grinch]

Did you disconnect the hoses before the freeze?

Yes I did, that seems to be where many people fall down.

 

[Grinch]

They just need to be below the frost line, no matter how deep that is. There should be no water above the valve (washer) at the bottom. But if the valve at the bottom is not below the frost line it will freeze. Don't think wd40 on the packing nut will do anything. Many times the hydrant is teed into the underground line and elbowed up until it is higher than the main line. If it is as deep as the main line it should not freeze. Running water at the house for a long time may help thaw the spot where the hydrant is teed in.

My supply lines aren't below ground they're part of my house plumbing in the walls.
The 2 faucets are outside but part of the house.
Like so

 

[Valveman]

Oh, sorry. But they work the same. It is freezing before the valve and gasket inside the wall.

 

[John Gayewski]

Probably not insulated around the openings enough.

 

[Eman85]

When you install these they need to be installed with a downward pitch so they drain when they are shut off. If not the water goes back against the valve and freezes. Many come with an angled shim that goes behind the mounting flange.

 

[Sarg]

In areas where I'm concerned about freezing I've put remote thermometers so I can monitor what is really going on.
I have them near the piping that comes through the slab from the well and in a heated areas of the garage were we store paint etc.
Money well spent