Front end threaded spout?

[roflwaffle]

I'm looking to replace my tub spout, which is threaded. The strange thing is that when I unscrewed it, the PVC line to the wall came out as well.

I'm guessing the end going into the spout was just tighter than the male end that goes into the wall/water pipe. But that could be wrong, and I'd rather not risk breaking the mostly working spout to find out.

Were spouts ever made with the threaded pipe built/integrated into them? Or is this just a sticky PVC pipe?

 

[Reach4]

I'm looking to replace my tub spout, which is threaded.

When I read that, I thought you wanted to get a new spout to replace the existing one.

I'd rather not risk breaking the mostly working spout to find out.

This made me wonder what that first sentence meant.

Or is this just a sticky PVC pipe?

I would guess somebody used a schedule 80 PVC or CPVC nipple. A brass nipple is more common for this. Don't use a galvanized nipple except for temporary use. The nipple length is selected based on the plumbing, so it would be unlikely to have been built into a faucet.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[roflwaffle]

Thanks for the help. It looks like a 3-4" CPVC nipple. I'll just get another threaded spout and try to find a brass nipple of the correct length.

 

[Reach4]

If this is a diverter spout, some are better than others. Delta Faucet RP17454 and RP17453Tub Spout Pull-Down Diverters dribble much less than most. They can be confusing for those who do not know to pull down.

 

[Dj2]

Your situation demonstrates why we NEVER use PVC or any other plastic nipple for a diverter supply. You don't want to break the nipple and end up with the threaded portion inside the wall.
Try this: Cut the spout in half (you can use a Sawzall or a hacksaw) then use snippers to cut it open and remove it.
Now, use an adjustable wrench to hold the nipple steady while unscrewing the remaining portion of the spout with a second wrench.
Next it's up to your capability: remove and replace the nipple with a metal one and install a new spout, install a new spout on the plastic nipple or call a plumber.

 

[CountryBumkin]

I thought OP reported that the entire PVC nipple unthreaded from the wall.

If so he should be able to get a brass nipple the same length and reinstall in the wall.

OP, if I understand your problem, be sure to wrap some Teflon tape around the threads of the pipe nipple (and I like to add some "pipe dope" over that) then screw it back into the wall (well, not "into wall", but you know what I mean). You don't want any leaks at that connection.

 

[Reach4]

Even if the spout has a diverter function, that nipple will not see much pressure. So the threads do not have to be tightened nearly as tight as for pressure pipe.

 

[Kreemoweet]

Even if the spout has a diverter function, that nipple will not see much pressure. So the threads do not have to be tightened nearly as tight as for pressure pipe.

While that is usually true, some showerheads have shutoffs in them, in which case full system water pressure can be
applied to the spout and nipple.

 

[roflwaffle]

Thanks for the replies everyone! I was able to reinstall the spout/CPVC nipple with some Teflon tape.

I'm also going to use a brass nipple when I install a new spout. The shower head we have has a valve to restrict water flow that I believe can close completely, or at least get close to it.

The Delata/BrassCraft spouts with pull down diverters also look pretty good with the restrictive shower head we're using (last page, TS-14), although they don't perform as some other spouts/diverters at lower pressures. It's a shame the LDR spout is a slip fit because it hardly leaks across the board.

http://www.taitem.com/wp-content/uploads/Diverter-Valve-Tech-Tip-2011.7.20.pdf

Thanks again!