Franklin C1 cistern pump mated with CSV?

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CenterTree

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The CSV pressure setting will be mostly determined by the capability of the pump and the size of the pressure tank chosen.

Since you will be pumping from a cistern, there will not be much vertical lift so the submersible pump should be capable of exceeding 70 psi. If using the standard 4.5 gallon pressure tank, if it were me, I would use a 50/70 pressure switch so the CSV will provide 60 psi constant.
Thanks for chiming in.
I suspect going from our current ebb and flow of 30/50 setup with 82 gallon rated pressure tank, that 60PSI on a CSV will seem like heaven.:D

Just wasn't certain of what to choose...THANKS.
 

Reach4

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Our new setup will include a SpinDown filter and a TRIPLE Big Blue 4x20" filters. So that may give a little pressure lose, to account for, but how much, I don't know.
Three 4.5x20" filters? I have that, but I then went to a backwashing front end filter for H2S+iron. So one cartridge is empty, and I could leave 2 empty.

Anyway, what filtering are you facing, and will you want to consider a backwashing filter? A backwashing filter could affect which SQ you want.
 

Bannerman

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I had expected the GRUNDFOS SQ 10SQ05-160 to have a greater head capacity. Since it is only 160', that is only equivalent to ~69 psi so you will be forced to use a lower pressure pressure switch and CSV setting.
a
In using a 40/60 pressure switch for 50 psi constant, with only 69 psi possible from the pump, that does not leave much margin for reliable shutoff if the pump cannot deliver pressure at 100 %.
 
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CenterTree

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I had expected the GRUNDFOS SQ 10SQ05-160 to have a greater head capacity. Since it is only 160', that is only equivalent to ~69 psi so you will be forced to use a lower pressure pressure switch and CSV setting.
a
In using a 40/60 pressure switch for 50 psi constant, with only 69 psi possible from the pump, that does not leave much margin for reliable shutoff if the pump cannot deliver pressure at 100 %.
What do you mean "reliable shutoff"? You mean the upper end PSI of 60? If 69psi is above the 60 set on the switch, then it should be OK , right? Yikes, I really thought I ordered a good pump for my needs.

Does the fact that I am pumping out of a cistern make any difference in that 160 head number?
 

Reach4

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I had expected the GRUNDFOS SQ 10SQ05-160 to have a greater head capacity. Since it is only 160', that is only equivalent to ~69 psi so you will be forced to use a lower pressure pressure switch and CSV setting.
10SQ05-160 will put out more than 95 psi.
 

CenterTree

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10SQ05-160 will put out more than 95 psi.

:confused:
I found this info and get more confused.

Total Head Lift: 224 Feet
Then i find this also: 160' Rated Head.
Then this: 10SQ05-160 (100-115VAC, 69 psi @ 10 GPM).


:eek:

I have no clue how to convert HEAD rating into PSI output.
 

Bannerman

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10SQ05-160 will put out more than 95 psi.
The spec sheet I saw only indicated 160' head.

The info Center Tree included in post #28 indicates 160' at the rated head capacity (10 GPM), but 224' total which as you mention, will be >95 psi.

There should then be no issue using that pump for 50/70 or even 60/80 psi as the flow rate through the CSV to acheive shutoff will be only 1 GPM.
 

Reach4

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Then this: 10SQ05-160 (100-115VAC, 69 psi @ 10 GPM).
You don't need 10 gpm to shut off your 50/70 pressure switch. In fact, you will be using 1 gpm probably due to the CSV.

I have no clue how to convert HEAD rating into PSI output.
The math is easy enough, but you might prefer something like this: https://www.convertunits.com/from/foot+of+water/to/psi
IMG_7.png
 
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Valveman

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Yep that pump will work fine. Going to 50/70 and a constant 60 from a CSV is what I recommend when you have filters and/or softener. This makes up for the 10 PSI loss through the filters. At 50/70 I would opt for the 10 gallon size tank with the CSV1A/PK1A because tanks hold less water at higher pressure.
 

CenterTree

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Yep that pump will work fine. Going to 50/70 and a constant 60 from a CSV is what I recommend when you have filters and/or softener. This makes up for the 10 PSI loss through the filters. At 50/70 I would opt for the 10 gallon size tank with the CSV1A/PK1A because tanks hold less water at higher pressure.
Perfect info. Thanks everyone for the help.

Glad I checked back here Cary, as I had the order all ready to go with the 4.5 gal tank. I never knew about the "need" to go up a bit in tank size. Makes sense since the tank will contain more air.
Good for future seekers to know and consider also.
 

Reach4

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Glad I checked back here Cary, as I had the order all ready to go with the 4.5 gal tank. I never knew about the "need" to go up a bit in tank size.
Not so much a need as an optimization.

I suggest you look at post #22.

If conditions are unsure, at least consider leaving a space for a backwashing filter.
 

CenterTree

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Not so much a need as an optimization.

I suggest you look at post #22.

If conditions are unsure, at least consider leaving a space for a backwashing filter.
Yes, I have room for the option to add a backwash filter if need be. At this point the well drilling company has not even developed nor installed their pump yet. So we have no real status on the water quality.

I am trying to plan for all scenarios upfront. I even have plans for an injection pump for H2O2 or Chlorine if need be.
Trying to get all the basics covered and allow for "surprise" element also. (as much as possible anyway). THANKS.
 

Reach4

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Trying to get all the basics covered and allow for "surprise" element also. (as much as possible anyway).
Big Blue 4.5x20 housings comment. Get genuine Pentair/Pentek, rather than knockoffs.

If an o-ring goes bad, mainly stretches so it will not fit back in, make sure you keep a spare. I have a list of compatible o-rings. Usually you can reuse. I lightly coat the o-ring with Molykote 111. A 5.3 ounce tube is a 2-lifetime supply.

Consider a bypass system. I have a ball valve in and out, and my emergency bypass would be to close those valves, and run a potable water hose between the drain valve at my pressure tank and a boiler drain valve following the backwashing and cartridge filters.

Also cartridge housings full of water are heavy to lift with outstretched arms. When tightening, I turn the housing CCW until I feel the click as the thread drops in. Then CW and you know you will not crossthread.

Note that the housings are not tapped for hanging from the bracket if you buy the housing separately. They expect you to use 5/16 x 1 inch lag bolts. I suggest stainless but not necessary.

Consider boiler drain valves between stages. You can attach a GHT pressure gauge to look for pressure drops. Some cartridge filters can mount pressure gauges.

Use polypropylene or polyester cartridges, and not cellulose, on non-chlorinated water. I like Pentek DGD-5005-20 polypropylene spun 50-5 micron.

After you do your plumbing, and develop your well, I suggest that you sanitize your well and plumbing.
 
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