Frame Up

[Thomas K]

Hi! I am installing a 1 1/2" drain pipe for new double vanity in a 1960s home. The wall is made up of two parallel runs of 2 x 4" top plate and floor plate, with 2 x 4" studs in each run. I am asking if it is okay to run said drain pipe by notching side-by-side 2 x 4s exactly 1" each and running pipe through center of notches.

I had a plumber install a line, but he drilled the 2 x 4s too much, and I am in the process of replacing them. I don't think this wall is load bearing, but it might be. 2 x 6" ceiling joists do not break on it, but span this bathroom and smaller back-to-back bathroom. Total span before breaking on smaller bathroom wall is 14' .

I extended door framing into closet area (last photo) to accomodate a 28" pocket door. I removed all of the studs with an X on them. I want to turn the studs arrow is pointing to sideways, so they match the stud orientation in pipe wall. wall is doubled on other side of that area, and I want to install new top and floor plates in area between where I bumped out door framing and where other walls meet so there will be studs there I can notch like the rest of the run. I hope I am making sense here.

Thanks for any replies!

-Thomas

 

[Sylvan]

Rip it all out call a Licensed plumber to reinstall all the piping properly including the connection to the cast iron

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Thomas K]

Rip it all out call a Licensed plumber to reinstall all the piping properly including the connection to the cast iron

I wasn't going to reinstall it like that. I was going to use twin street sanitary tees. What's wrong with screw-in connection at cast iron pipe?

 

[Sylvan]

It is NOT a drainage fitting. Notice it is a straight bossed fitting? Does not allow for proper pitch of the drainage connected

We used to use these types of fittings for vent not for waste

 

[Thomas K]

It is NOT a drainage fitting. Notice it is a straight bossed fitting? Does not allow for proper pitch of the drainage connected

We used to use these types of fittings for vent not for waste

I believe you. Which fitting should be used?

Wife and I already spent $1000, and depleted our savings.

 

[Sylvan]

CHARLOTTE PIPE, NH 28 4 X 2, NO HUB TEE WYE, CAST IRON NO HUB TEE WYE, 4" X 2" CAST IRON NO HUB TEE WYE, TY, M77392

Then use TWO Mission couplings XH CI to No HUB to make the connection CI to CI

NEVER use a Mission coupling

 

[Sylvan]

https://www.pexuniverse.com/mission-cp44-specialty-coupling

 

[Thomas K]

Sylvan, if I had to cut that cast iron, I'd replace it with PVC. I am using a 1.5" drain pipe because I have 2 x 4" walls. I was going to plumb it like in attached diagram.

I was planning to use street sanitary tees because cast iron tee really sits too high for double sink vanity plumbing. Installing a 36" vanity.

 

[Sylvan]

I would strongly suggest you forget using 11/2 .

I use 2" for all waste lines minimum as it allow for better snaking (rodding)

 

[Sylvan]

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Spears-...hPOpgYm9seuUNv3uXXk-8O8dvbp7jl30aAp7lEALw_wcB

 

[Sylvan]

Good luck

 

[Thomas K]

It is NOT a drainage fitting. Notice it is a straight bossed fitting? Does not allow for proper pitch of the drainage connected

We used to use these types of fittings for vent not for waste

You're saying the cast iron fitting is wrong, aren't you? I thought you meant the plastic fitting. Guess it didn't matter back in 1964, when house was built.

 

[Sylvan]

You're saying the cast iron fitting is wrong, aren't you? I thought you meant the plastic fitting. Guess it didn't matter back in 1964, when house was built.

Each area allows different standards

NYC had the highest standards until they recently when they changed the code as money comes before safety

If you have to use the existing CI fitting then do it but I just gave you my opinion what I would use

 

[Thomas K]

Sylvan: If I installed the wye and ell combo you recommended, I could use the configuration in photo. I uploaded photos of the area that would have to be cut. The fitting would have to be installed lower than the current one, but I will still have problem of running a 2" drainpipe between studs. They built the wet wall here with two 2 x 4" runs, or, effectively, a double 2 x 4 wall. I suppose I could notch between each 2 x 4 in twin walls, because pipe run is almost exactly in the center of the two walls.

Just to be curious, would it be a lot of trouble to replace the cast iron from new fitting to roof (about 14') with PVC? Roof vent is metal with rubber collar. I have a Diablo cast iron blade and angle grinder with cast iron cutting wheel. But it's just me working.

 

[Sylvan]

"Just to be curious, would it be a lot of trouble to replace the cast iron from new fitting to roof (about 14') with PVC? "


If your that close to the roof it should not be a problem
PVC should not be exposed to direct sun light as it becomes a little more brittle so take that into consideration when allowing it to be the vent terminal it should not have that much of a negative effect on it just a note of a precaution

 

[Thomas K]

"Just to be curious, would it be a lot of trouble to replace the cast iron from new fitting to roof (about 14') with PVC? "


If your that close to the roof it should not be a problem
PVC should not be exposed to direct sun light as it becomes a little more brittle so take that into consideration when allowing it to be the vent terminal it should not have that much of a negative effect on it just a note of a precaution

I think I'll just install two riser clamps on existing cast iron stack, and try out my Sawzall this afternoon. I can get fitting you described at local Home Depot, and shielded hub connectors.

 

[Sylvan]

I think I'll just install two riser clamps on existing cast iron stack, and try out my Sawzall this afternoon. I can get fitting you described at local Home Depot, and shielded hub connectors.

Good luck wear goggles and please keep me posted

Take before and after pictures

 

[Thomas K]

I will.

 

[Thomas K]

Sylvan: Went over to house this afternoon to replace some heavily notched studs to give me better support for riser clamp and the floor plate around the pipe was so cut up by whoever built house that part of plate broke away. I used Sawzall to even it out.

I don't know if this wall is load bearing or not, last photo is ceiling joists that sit on it. Both 2 x 4" wall runs rest on 3/4" board.

I can fix it by installing 3/4" plywood across the joists in that area until they meet the level of the adjoining floor plate, and then attaching new studs onto plywood where they were.
I will not drill or notch any of the new studs until figuring out exactly where to drill once new pipe fitting is in.

 

[Thomas K]

Work I did yesterday and today. Decided since I was going to replace some studs, I'd just replace them with 2 x 8s. A lot easier.