Found unusual iron pipe in slab under shower, best fitting to add PVC?

Holescreek

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My house was built in 1950, ranch on a slab. A previous owner installed a fiberglass shower in the late 60's early 70's (based on the flower wallpaper and gold flecked tile I found behind the surround. I've owned the house for 25 years.

When I removed the old shower base I discovered that the 2" PVC pipe was loosely inserted into a rubber gasket inside a cast iron pipe and had some kind of caulk smeared around the outside of the joint. I assumed (incorrectly) that I could go to any home improvement store and buy a new doughut and get on with installing a new shower.

The inside of the pipe flange is 3-1/4" and the outside is 4-1/8". Fernco 2x2 doughnuts are 3" OD.

I took the old rubber gasket to a nearby plumbing supply house to see if they had a replacement. Nobody under 55 had a clue what it was. They finally asked a guy about my age and he said "I haven't seen one of those in ages". He said the cast iron pipe was "extra heavy/oversized, nothing like we use today" but he googled the gasket and found one on the Porter Pipe website. They show out-of-stock.

Any ideas where to get the right fitting or an alternative?

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Holescreek

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When I didn't see any responses here I posted this same question on a non-plumbing forum and received an interesting fix and a link to a video on how to do it. I'm going to pour an oakum/lead joint instead of using a rubber gasket.
 

DIYorBust

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Well it looks to me like you can easily find the ty-seal service weight gaskets online. Based on the labeling, it appears you want 2 inch service weight. Hard to imagine it would be a better idea to make a lead hub joint, but if you really do want to go this way, you could consider using Soil-o, which is a lead substitute product for making such joints that is safer than working with hot toxic lead.
 

Holescreek

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According to the local supply house, my pipe is "extra heavy (oversized)" and the only company that shows the necessary fitting shows it perpetually out of stock. I ended up making a PVC stub piece with a lip to keep it from pulling out and used oakum and lead to hold it in place. I couldn't find any supply houses (local or online) that would sell me a lead joint runner (rope) without a plumbers license so I used 3/4" oven gasket and a binder clip to hold it in place. I made a tool to press the oakum into the joint out of some scrap steel. I peened the joint after it cooled. I work with lead often for stained glass window restorations, I just wasn't aware it was compatible with PVC for plumbing. Hopefully this is my last time doing this.
 

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