Flushed Hot Water Heat now Dishwasher Not Working

Users who are viewing this thread

Phelpdk

New Member
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Virginia
This is about a Samsung DW80M2020US/AA 00 dishwasher. It is less than 3 years old.

A few days ago, as a part of regular maintenance, I flushed my Rheem hot water heater for the first time (also less than 3 years old). Everything went well, and after the tank filled up again, I ran all the faucets in the house to get any/all air out of the system.

I realized within ½ an hour of completing the maintenance the “Normal” light was blinking on my dishwasher. I looked it up in the manual, and saw this is an error message to indicate a leak or a main PBA problem. I removed the base plate and didn’t see any water or feel any moisture. I assumed then that air must have gotten into the inlet hose and the machine mistakingly took this as a leak, but I wasn't sure how to fix it. I called Samsung multiple times and followed their guidance. I also looked up additional remedies on various appliance repair forums. Between all these sources, these are all the things I’ve done to try and remedy the situation:

  1. Turn the unit off and on several times, thus forcing it to flow, flush and drain water in an attempt to push any air out of the system.
  2. Turned the unit off at the circuit breaker and let it sit over 24 hrs to drain all electricity and reset itself (I've tried this multiple times now)
  3. Left the door open 12+ hours to allow the unit to completely dry.
  4. Detached the water inlet hose from the supply line (not from the machine itself), allowed it to drain and completely refill.
The light is still flashing, and I’m unsure what my next steps should be. It seems highly unlikely to me, given the timing, that the hot water heater flush and this error code aren’t related; so I'm leaning towards a PBA problem. However, I haven't been able to find any guidance on a fix for that... just people saying at that point you should buy a new washer. Does anyone have any ideas on how to confirm PBA problem before I invest in a new washer? Also, how do I ensure this doesn't happen again whenever I need to flush my hot water heater in the future?

If you think I'm on the wrong track with the PBA, any guidance or alternative solutions are very welcome!!
 

Plumber69

In the Trades
Messages
2,380
Reaction score
214
Points
63
Location
Prince Rupert, British Columbia
This is about a Samsung DW80M2020US/AA 00 dishwasher. It is less than 3 years old.

A few days ago, as a part of regular maintenance, I flushed my Rheem hot water heater for the first time (also less than 3 years old). Everything went well, and after the tank filled up again, I ran all the faucets in the house to get any/all air out of the system.

I realized within ½ an hour of completing the maintenance the “Normal” light was blinking on my dishwasher. I looked it up in the manual, and saw this is an error message to indicate a leak or a main PBA problem. I removed the base plate and didn’t see any water or feel any moisture. I assumed then that air must have gotten into the inlet hose and the machine mistakingly took this as a leak, but I wasn't sure how to fix it. I called Samsung multiple times and followed their guidance. I also looked up additional remedies on various appliance repair forums. Between all these sources, these are all the things I’ve done to try and remedy the situation:

  1. Turn the unit off and on several times, thus forcing it to flow, flush and drain water in an attempt to push any air out of the system.
  2. Turned the unit off at the circuit breaker and let it sit over 24 hrs to drain all electricity and reset itself (I've tried this multiple times now)
  3. Left the door open 12+ hours to allow the unit to completely dry.
  4. Detached the water inlet hose from the supply line (not from the machine itself), allowed it to drain and completely refill.
The light is still flashing, and I’m unsure what my next steps should be. It seems highly unlikely to me, given the timing, that the hot water heater flush and this error code aren’t related; so I'm leaning towards a PBA problem. However, I haven't been able to find any guidance on a fix for that... just people saying at that point you should buy a new washer. Does anyone have any ideas on how to confirm PBA problem before I invest in a new washer? Also, how do I ensure this doesn't happen again whenever I need to flush my hot water heater in the future?

If you think I'm on the wrong track with the PBA, any guidance or alternative solutions are very welcome!!
This is about a Samsung DW80M2020US/AA 00 dishwasher. It is less than 3 years old.

A few days ago, as a part of regular maintenance, I flushed my Rheem hot water heater for the first time (also less than 3 years old). Everything went well, and after the tank filled up again, I ran all the faucets in the house to get any/all air out of the system.

I realized within ½ an hour of completing the maintenance the “Normal” light was blinking on my dishwasher. I looked it up in the manual, and saw this is an error message to indicate a leak or a main PBA problem. I removed the base plate and didn’t see any water or feel any moisture. I assumed then that air must have gotten into the inlet hose and the machine mistakingly took this as a leak, but I wasn't sure how to fix it. I called Samsung multiple times and followed their guidance. I also looked up additional remedies on various appliance repair forums. Between all these sources, these are all the things I’ve done to try and remedy the situation:

  1. Turn the unit off and on several times, thus forcing it to flow, flush and drain water in an attempt to push any air out of the system.
  2. Turned the unit off at the circuit breaker and let it sit over 24 hrs to drain all electricity and reset itself (I've tried this multiple times now)
  3. Left the door open 12+ hours to allow the unit to completely dry.
  4. Detached the water inlet hose from the supply line (not from the machine itself), allowed it to drain and completely refill.
The light is still flashing, and I’m unsure what my next steps should be. It seems highly unlikely to me, given the timing, that the hot water heater flush and this error code aren’t related; so I'm leaning towards a PBA problem. However, I haven't been able to find any guidance on a fix for that... just people saying at that point you should buy a new washer. Does anyone have any ideas on how to confirm PBA problem before I invest in a new washer? Also, how do I ensure this doesn't happen again whenever I need to flush my hot water heater in the future?

If you think I'm on the wrong track with the PBA, any guidance or alternative solutions are very welcome!!
Do you have full pressure at the valve supplying dishwasher? If so the supply line may just be airlocked
 

Phelpdk

New Member
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Virginia
OP update…
Dishwasher still not working, and these are the next steps I’ve taken and things I’ve discovered:
  1. Took dishwasher out of counter. Tilted it to the back. No water came out. Confirmed no moisture on the bottom of unit with paper towel.
  2. Completely disconnected hose from dishwasher and hot water line. Checked and flushed hose.
  3. Took inlet valve off dishwasher; checked and flushed.
6a90a521024e8762_tmp-7706


4. Found scale debris on screen to dishwasher. Have washed and removed. Photo is of screen BEFORE I cleaned it.


5. Removed side insulation. Noticed corrosion on one of the bolts. See photos.
0820a450024e871d_tmp-2888

Other side for reference:
2210b2ab024e8731_tmp-8446


6. Looked through openings at base of dishwasher. Noticed what I thought was adhesive, however I pushed a piece of paper towel into opening to confirm. It was water. :( See photos.

7ab03fc9024e8779_tmp-9050

^ The opening where I pushed paper towel through and found moisture.

Soo, now I have a couple of theories and any further guidance would be GREATLY appreciated!
Theory 1: There actually is a leak, and it was EXTRAORDINARY timing. I need to call a plumber to find it, or just bite the bullet and buy a new dishwasher.
Theory 2: The sediment on the screen caused the leak and I need to clean it more thoroughly.
Theory 3: The corrosion on the side bolt is indicative of a leak much higher up on the unit, that has somehow activated the leak detector sensor. I need to replace the bolt and washer.
 

WorthFlorida

Clinical Trail on a Cancer Drug Started 1/31/24. ☹
Messages
5,727
Solutions
1
Reaction score
982
Points
113
Location
Orlando, Florida
This is about a Samsung DW80M2020US/AA 00 dishwasher. It is less than 3 years old.

Detached the water inlet hose from the supply line (not from the machine itself), allowed it to drain and completely refill.
On the flush of the WH, sediment may have dislodge and now it jammed up the valve on the dishwasher. You'll need to disconnect the hose at the machine and run the water to be sure the line is clear. If it is suspect the shut valve. I know it is tight spot, with a mirror, flash light and the hose disconnected, look at the inlet. Most of them will have a screen/filter device to prevent large debris from get stuck inside the valve.

1649344594971.png

With water pressure in the supply line it would be nearly impossible to get an air lock. In a hydronic heating systems you can get airlocks since it is a closed loop.
 

WorthFlorida

Clinical Trail on a Cancer Drug Started 1/31/24. ☹
Messages
5,727
Solutions
1
Reaction score
982
Points
113
Location
Orlando, Florida
I posted my reply just as you did your update.
 
Last edited:

Plumber69

In the Trades
Messages
2,380
Reaction score
214
Points
63
Location
Prince Rupert, British Columbia
On the flush of the WH, sediment may have dislodge and now it jammed up the valve on the dishwasher. You'll need to disconnect the hose at the machine and run the water to be sure the line is clear. If it is suspect the shut valve. I know it is tight spot, with a mirror, flash light and the hose disconnected, look at the inlet. Most of them will have a screen/filter device to prevent large debris from get stuck inside the valve.

View attachment 82592

With water pressure in the supply line it would be nearly impossible to get an air lock. In a hydronic heating systems you can get airlocks since it is a closed loop.
I get airlocks in new installs all the time
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks