Fluorescents in switched zones

[KevinR]

I am a rank newb so be gentle.

Have a new 30x60 shop with new 200a service - out in the country and away from all the city limits red tape. I did all the exterior and interior connections to the inside breaker box and have wired a 110 and a 50a 220 welder plug just for convenience. The local electric co-op inspected my work before they would connect their service, so I must have passed the first test.

I have not done the permanent interior wiring yet but I'm starting with lights. I have a nice pile of 20 t8 3-bulb fluorescent fixtures I bought off craigslist. I want to wire 4-8 lights per switch so I can turn on the part of the shop I'm working in. If I want all lights on, i'll have to turn on multiple switches. Bulbs draw 27 watts each. if my math is correct (and the fact that I'm asking should cause you to question it), I can fit all the lights on a 15A breaker with about 10% to spare or move up to a 20a with room to add. (a=w/pf x v or 27x3x20/1x120)

Question #1 - I want to be sure my wire gauge planning is correct. Because of the distances, I'm thinking 14/3 romex. If I've not already done so, this is going to show my ignorance: as I get nearer the switch, does the wire gauge need to get heavier (eg is the amp draw downstream additive) or do I use the same wire and watch the distances? Same question between switches and to the breaker box.

Question #2 - assuming I wire all switches back to one breaker, what kind of switch would you recommend? Should I be looking for beefier specs than a standard light switch?

Question #3 - all of this wiring is 13' in the air and running the roof trusses with the exception of the part running down the wall to the switch and over to the breaker box. if I have to do conduit, I'd rather do PVC just for the weight and ease of install. If I don't have to do conduit, I'd rather buy tools than spend money on it. Thoughts?

I really appreciate the help. I'm a car guy. Screwing up 12v is a pretty safe mistake. I'm a little out of my element on this but having fun learning.

 

[Reach4]

Question #1 - I want to be sure my wire gauge planning is correct. Because of the distances, I'm thinking 14/3 romex.

Regardless of any voltage drop considerations, you are required by codes to use 12 AWG or bigger for a 20 amp breaker. This would be the case, even if you only run 4 ft. You can connect 14 AWG to a 15 amp breaker.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Cacher_Chick]

The wire located in areas subjected to the possibility of damage must be protected. For surface mounting, I like steel boxes and EMT. Use the EMT to sleeve the cable from the device box into the overhead to protect it. There are transition fittings for the ends of the

conduit.

 

[WorthFlorida]

The minimum is 14 gauge wire (AC) must be protected by a 15 amp breaker, 12 gauge a 20 amp breaker, 10 gauge a 30a breaker. You do not mix wire sizes from 12 to 14 gauge. You're not running duct work. In general when laying out your job, 14 gauge for lighting, 20 gauge for outlets. For lighting in your case is resistive load, length of the wire is not factor on your work shop.

Metal or PVC conduit is mostly personal preference. In commercial application is almost must be metal conduit. In my own attached garage I've used metal conduit but in the attic area I ran NM then as I come down the wall I used what is shown in the picture above.

For switched and outlets in your shop environment buy the better heavy duty units. The shop will be subject a lot of Texas humidity and quite a wide range of temperatures. Those 59 cent units at HD will work but won't last as long. If you take a close look between the cheapies and the single boxed more expensive units you'll see rivets and metal bracing. And when you have a 20 amp 12 gauge circuit use 20 amp rated outlets. These parts are usually a one time purchase so adding another $40-$50 more to the job in the long run you'll never notice it. Don't overlook any GFCI outlets needed such as any outlets near a garage door where you would easily run an extension cord to the outside. If your shop floor is concrete I would use GFCI everywhere for safety.

I'm assuming that this is on your residential property for non commercial use.

Since you're doing your own work it would be advisable to get a permit. Since this is non commercial building and on you residential property (homeowner) you be usually be awarded a permit. As the first three pin threads on this site all advice must conform to codes and safety. With a signed off permit you'll work will be checked out and there be little worry from your insurance company. Any damages that might be due to an electrical nature such as injury or fire, the insurance company may not pay because of unapproved work or no receipts that work was installed by a licenced electrician. When in doubt call up an electrician. Many would gladly answers questions (because of safety) and hope to get a little work out of it. When it is all done be sure to notify your insurance company about the additional structure. Most policies for appurtenant structures are covered without additional cost.