Floating boat dock wiring

[eck1901]

I have a wooden boat dock on a 100A private lake. The dock is about 150 feet from the house. I currently have a single 120V 15A circuit feeding the dock. All wiring is 14/2 + G UF cable buried a few inches deep. The wiring comes from the panel in the house to an outdoor located and rated light switch for lighting along the path to the dock. Out of that switch comes 2 cables, 1 directly from the switch for the light fixtures hanging from the tree trunks and the other cable is not switched. Part way down the path, the 2nd (non-switched) cable feeds a GFI receptacle in a weatherproof cover. The downstream, GFI protected side feeds the dock.

The GFI receptacle is about 100 feet from the dock. On the dock is simply 3 light fixtures and their switches and 1 - 120V duplex receptacle. All are in weatherproof enclosures and are under a roof (except the dawn to dusk light). There are loops in the UF cable for movement in the dock. The dock moves very little since only trolling motors are allowed and the level fluctuates very little.

1. It seems that this is well protected via the GFI, don't you think?
2. Now the rub - I am considering getting an aluminum dock system because of the junk treated wood from when this thing was constructed in 2008. It would seem if I add a bonding jumper (or perhaps 2 for safe keeping) running from the aluminum ramp to the aluminum doc to the aluminum ladder to the ground wire from the UF cable, I should be good to go - at least for safety from the 120V power. What do you think?
3. On the alum. dock, I do have some concerns about grounding for lightning protection but am not sure if driving a rod on shore and bonding to the ramp, etc. would be the correct thing to do.
4. I'm a retired elect. engineer who wired the house, dock, etc. so I have some experience and knowledge but recognize I don't know everything.

 

[RiverLodge]

1. Install a 15 amp GFCI breaker for that circuit in your house panel.
2. Replace the exterior GFI with a duplex receptacle.
3. Bond the dock, ramp and ladder.
4. Connect the bonded aluminum to a ground rod on shore.
5. Test the GFCI breaker at least once a month, every week during the summer.

https://electricalconnection.org/resources-149

https://iaeimagazine.org/magazine/2010/09/16/ground-fault-protection-for-marinas-and-boatyards/

RL

 

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[eck1901]

Thanks for your reply. I presume your #1&2 is to just get the whole thing under GFI coverage or something better about the GFI breaker or what?

Just in case I was not clear, EVERYTHING ON THE DOCK IS GFI protected right now. The lights that are not protected are just a couple on land along the path. They are flood light fixtures nailed to trees.

Perhaps you may be concerned about the path lighting being safer as the reason for your #1 & 2 comments.

Anyway, thanks so much - especially for the 2 reference links which were really nice and clear.

 

[hj]

NOTHING before the dock is GFI protected, therefore the GFCI breaker.

 

[RiverLodge]

The GFCI breaker is simple. It will also be more convenient to test regularly since it is within a very short distance from your kitchen. I have replaced many many more GFCI receptacles than breakers over the last few decades. Sleep well my friend.

RL

 

[WorthFlorida]

Most use GFCI's for outside receptacles that are only rated for interior locations and with a high failure rate here in Florida. There are GFCI's that are rated as (WR) weather resistant and must be used in weather proof enclosures. I had have them also fail but more likely due to nearby lightning strikes. Latest code now wants everything to be tamper resistant.

http://www.cooperindustries.com/con..._devices/products/gfci/TWRSGF15-TWRSGF20.html