polychromeuganda
New Member
Unless someone has seen this happen before and has some idea for a useful repair I think I should replace the valve with the brass 9000 series Fleck or a Clack twin tank valve. 3 1/2 years ago when I installed this the Clack twin was new but apparently quietly available to DIY types. I don't see Clack advertised to DIY but obviously I'm not a fan of Pentair/Fleck at this point. The history follows...
I installed a Fleck 9100 SXT with 2 x 1.5 cu ft resin tanks etc 3 1/2 years ago. 2 months ago it failed to deliver soft water. It was readily apparent that it wasn't drawing brine during regeneration. A couple rounds of fussing with injectors and flow restrictions that were already in good working order failed to cause it to draw brine. Since a leaking timer valve would prevent the injector from drawing brine I disassembled the upper and lower valves to inspect them. I found the lower valve iron fouled on the seal surfaces and on the walls of the valve body, with trace deposits on the valve core. I replaced the seals and spacers in both valves and used vinegar on (many) cotton swabs to carefully clean all traces of iron from the valve body and soaked the valve cores in vinegar to clear the small amount of iron residue clinging to them with swabs. The original seals and spacers were iron loaded, but after tossing them in the pail of vinegar and removing the iron they appeared to be in as good condition as the replacement parts, no wear, no hardening, no cracks, cuts, nicks, abrasions... The valve cores had all of their green coating and no sign of wear or abrasion, and were re-used. I didn't detect any significant roughness on the plastic surface of the valve body, but I had nothing to compare it to. After reassembling the valve and regenerating both tanks everything worked perfectly and the water quality was fully restored.
Until yesterday. In winter the indoor pool loses water to evaporation and I added around 800 gallons between 4pm and 7pm. Around 8pm the softener regenerated. The domestic water was suddenly as if it were untreated. This morning I forced a regeneration which switches the house to the the other media tank. No joy. I verified that the bypass valve is closed.
I haven't disassembled the softener valve yet and I'm not sure I should bother. The main valve(s) are clearly leaking again and I've recently performed the only suitable service procedure. My expectation is that the composition of the plastic valve body is ill suited to the slightly acidic water in the NorthEast eventually allowing iron to bind to the surface leading to seal leakage, I wouldn't be surprised if its a consequence of a plastic formula selected to resist iron deposition in the high pH water found in the rest of the country.
I also understand that Pentair denies all warranty claims for their water valves, Their logic is reported to be that valves leak when the seals fail and seals are a wear item not covered by the warranty. Obviously I disagree with that premise, from my perspective it looks like a failing plastic valve body is preventing the seals from functioning. I don't think I'd make much progress persuading Pentair to take that view, so I'm looking to buy something better suited.
I installed a Fleck 9100 SXT with 2 x 1.5 cu ft resin tanks etc 3 1/2 years ago. 2 months ago it failed to deliver soft water. It was readily apparent that it wasn't drawing brine during regeneration. A couple rounds of fussing with injectors and flow restrictions that were already in good working order failed to cause it to draw brine. Since a leaking timer valve would prevent the injector from drawing brine I disassembled the upper and lower valves to inspect them. I found the lower valve iron fouled on the seal surfaces and on the walls of the valve body, with trace deposits on the valve core. I replaced the seals and spacers in both valves and used vinegar on (many) cotton swabs to carefully clean all traces of iron from the valve body and soaked the valve cores in vinegar to clear the small amount of iron residue clinging to them with swabs. The original seals and spacers were iron loaded, but after tossing them in the pail of vinegar and removing the iron they appeared to be in as good condition as the replacement parts, no wear, no hardening, no cracks, cuts, nicks, abrasions... The valve cores had all of their green coating and no sign of wear or abrasion, and were re-used. I didn't detect any significant roughness on the plastic surface of the valve body, but I had nothing to compare it to. After reassembling the valve and regenerating both tanks everything worked perfectly and the water quality was fully restored.
Until yesterday. In winter the indoor pool loses water to evaporation and I added around 800 gallons between 4pm and 7pm. Around 8pm the softener regenerated. The domestic water was suddenly as if it were untreated. This morning I forced a regeneration which switches the house to the the other media tank. No joy. I verified that the bypass valve is closed.
I haven't disassembled the softener valve yet and I'm not sure I should bother. The main valve(s) are clearly leaking again and I've recently performed the only suitable service procedure. My expectation is that the composition of the plastic valve body is ill suited to the slightly acidic water in the NorthEast eventually allowing iron to bind to the surface leading to seal leakage, I wouldn't be surprised if its a consequence of a plastic formula selected to resist iron deposition in the high pH water found in the rest of the country.
I also understand that Pentair denies all warranty claims for their water valves, Their logic is reported to be that valves leak when the seals fail and seals are a wear item not covered by the warranty. Obviously I disagree with that premise, from my perspective it looks like a failing plastic valve body is preventing the seals from functioning. I don't think I'd make much progress persuading Pentair to take that view, so I'm looking to buy something better suited.