Fleck 5600 SXT Inadequate Backwash = Hard water?

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seanflorida

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I recently noticed my water was still hard after having done a backwash. I re-tested my water and it didn't become more hard, so that should be fine.
The one thing that did change is that I added a check valve to the backwash drain tube that pipes into a drain that is dedicated for the water softner. This drain pipe (1/2" cpvc) enters the wall at a 1ft above the floor and ultimately drains into the washing machine drain from the top, which is 5ft off the ground (the height you would imagine a washing machine line set hook up to be). This isn't hacked together - it's actually built for this purpose it seems.

I added the check valve because I also added a dehumidifier and assocated drain pump to utilize this same drain system. I didn't want either pump pushing water in either system - just the drain.
While I have confimed the backwash step is flushing the water into the ultimate destination (washing machine drain pipe), I suspect the added check valve is adding more pressure (?) that the Fleck pump needs to counter-act, and becasuse of that, it can't fully flush itself. I noticed in the manual that it said an inadequate bakcwash could be a cause of continued hard water. The timing seems to line up.

With that - I'm trying to figure out a way to allow both devices that need this single drain pipe to co-exists without causing problems. Thoughts?
 

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Reach4

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A 10 inch diameter tank should backwash at 2.4 GPM. Can you direct the drain water into a 5 gallon bucket, and see how quickly that gets filled during backwash?

If your tank is not painted (natural tan), you can shine a bright flashlight thru the tank in the dark, as you backwash, and look at the shadow to see the bed expansion.

If your water is city water, the resin is expected to deteriorate faster than with well water.

If your water is well water, iron can foul the resin, and you would want to treat that resin.
 

seanflorida

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Update: I removed the check valves and just had the water softner hooked up to the drain pipe and ran a recharge. Seems like we're back in business.
So now I need to find a less restrictive check valve or think of a different way to drain the dehumidifier and/or both.
 

Reach4

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One way would be to run the dehumidifier drain line as a separate line. But then you have to feed both into the standpipe along with the washing machine. Do you have a laundry tub that you can dump into?

Officially there should be an air gap on the softener drain. But if using a check valve, how about converting to bigger piping, and use a bigger check valve, such as 3/4 inch.

Also note there is less pressure drop in the straight-thru path of a tee than a path that includes the side (bull) port
 
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