Flange replacement

Users who are viewing this thread

adiner

New Member
Messages
14
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
philly
Hello,

I am trying to replace the tile, toilet and vanity in a bathroom. When I removed the toilet, I noticed that the flange was not as pristine as I had hoped. As the pictures show, the right side of the flange is a bit more rusted out, though the closet bolt washer was still secure enough above the groove. It's hard to tell whether the red stuff on the top is just dried wax or rust; I've been scraping at it and it seems like a combination of the two.

Since I am trying to remodel to sell the home, I'm trying to do a decent job, and since I will also be living here for at least another 2 years, I'd also like to do a decent job. Given that I am also trying to retile and am uncertain whether to tile over the tile, remove the tile or replace the whole mortar bed and start again from the concrete foundation, it would affect the height of the tile around the flange. A few questions.

1. I've read that flange height should be .25" above the floor for a proper seal with gasket or wax ring. I talked to a plumber and he said it could be flush. Which one is preferred? This would affect my tiling options.

2. I'm not sure if I will go with tiling over tile because that would require me to shorten doors and replace the marble threshold. Also, if I did it would increase the height above the flange. I talked to one tile guy over the phone and he said you could tile over tile and then use spacers on the flange and seal it with caulk. I talked to a plumber and he said that it would leak. Are spacers reliable at all?

3. Is this flange necessary to replace? I'm not sure how bad it is supposed to get before it gets replaced. Said plumber said that he would charge $ 650 to replace it. If the ring is secure and the floor is level, seems like it would have a sufficient seal.

4. If this flange does need to be replaced, I was reading on plumbermag.com that you can replace with either stainless steel, pvc or replace the cast iron flange. The Oatey adjustable flange, shown on this old house, seems the easiest to replace once you get the old flange off. Not sure what the deal is with stainless steel. Cast iron seems like it could be the sturdiest but, given expense and that the plumber said he would need to jack up the floor, not sure if I need to do all that. Is the PVC flange, if properly seated, sufficient, is stainless steel any better (The diameter of the waste line is 3.75") or should I just go with the cast iron?

Any information would be greatly appreciated.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20200302_091319.jpg
    IMG_20200302_091319.jpg
    62.4 KB · Views: 151
  • IMG_20200302_091341.jpg
    IMG_20200302_091341.jpg
    67.3 KB · Views: 145

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,796
Reaction score
4,412
Points
113
Location
IL
1. Above the floor is preferred, but you can readily deal with a flange that is below the floor surface.
2. Go to the toilet forum https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?forums/toilet-forum-discussions.3/, and search for "spacer*" in the search box up top. Hint: you will find few proponents.
3. Probably not necessary to replace presuming the notches on the side are in the right place. You photos were not sharp, and maybe you could have cleaned the cast iron better for the photo if you were trying to show a defect. It is best to remove the rag for photos, but I don't think you need to retake the photos unless there is something to show.
4. If the hold down properties of the existing flange are not good, you could use a repair ring with ears to provide good anchoring for the closet bolts. PASCO 21013 and Superior 21015 are repair rings with mounting tabs outside.

Danco Hydro Seat is like repair ring with a tail. Use wax ring(s) under.

It is unlikely you will be replacing the existing ring, but if you do, then the cast iron compression ones would be good-- depending on the pipe you have. They come in various depths to match how high your pipe is.
 
Last edited:

Justin Fredenburg

New Member
Messages
6
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
CT
1. Above the floor is preferred, but you can readily deal with a flange that is below the floor surface.
2. Go to the toilet forum https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?forums/toilet-forum-discussions.3/, and search for "spacer*" in the search box up top. Hint: you will find few proponents.
3. Probably not necessary to replace presuming the notches on the side are in the right place. You photos were not sharp, and maybe you could have cleaned the cast iron better for the photo if you were trying to show a defect. It is best to remove the rag for photos, but I don't think you need to retake the photos unless there is something to show.
4. If the hold down properties of the existing flange are not good, you could use a repair ring with ears to provide good anchoring for the closet bolts. PASCO 21013 and Superior 21015 are repair rings with mounting tabs outside.

Danco Hydro Seat is like repair ring with a tail. Use wax ring(s) under.

It is unlikely you will be replacing the existing ring, but if you do, then the cast iron compression ones would be good-- depending on the pipe you have. They come in various depths to match how high your pipe is.
 

adiner

New Member
Messages
14
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
philly
Thanks for the information. I checked out the other threads on spacers. I think everything should line up but, if not, I guess a spacer should be fine.
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks