Flange/finished floor level

[Shaklee3]

Hi, I think I already know the answer to this after reading and searching the forum. We had a plumber install the toilet flange when it was just the 3/4" plywood subfloor, and it looked low to me at the time, even if we used the thin ditra instead of cbu. I sent the plumber a picture, and he said it looked great. After doing the tile, the flange is about 1/4" below the finished floor. I'm 99% sure this is wrong, but I don't know whether I should call the plumber back or just put an extension on it. Hoping some experienced people can give a 10-second opinion. Pics attached. Thanks!

 

[Reach4]

I think the flange at that height is not itself a real problem. However the flange not being supported, except by the pipe, is not good.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Shaklee3]

I think the flange at that height is not itself a real problem. However the flange not being supported, except by the pipe, is not good.

Yes, I did think it was strange that it's just a single drain pipe supporting the flange, and it's not attached at all to the subfloor. That's how the original one was as well from 30 years ago. As far as sealing, is a double wax ring what's recommended here?
Actually, if this works that would be ideal since I already have one sitting in my garage:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Fluidma...l-Gasket-with-Flange-and-Bolts-7514/203764000

 

[Shaklee3]

I went to check the condition on the flange, and realized the plumbers really hacked away at the previous and flange. Pictures attached. This means I can't use the wax-free seal since it expects a constant diameter, and not a very rough edge. In fact, I don't think I should use even a wax seal here. What should I do?

 

[Reach4]

I am not clear what the hacking is. I think you are still saying the flange ring is not supported except for the piping. So it may not be a good idea to hold the toilet with that. You could consider a repair ring with outside mounting tabs, such as PASCO 21013 or Superior 21015 . Those require drilling mounting holes through your tile. Ceramic tile is a little hard to drill. Porcelain tile is very hard to drill.

Then use wax. Position the shims, to prevent rocking, before dropping the toilet on the wax.
I would mold the wax into the crannies by hand (wearing a nitrile glove for easy cleanup).

 

[Shaklee3]

If you look closely at the inner part of the black ABS, you will see some of it is chipped out more than other parts. I guess this might be okay since it looks like they put glue all over it. So if I were to put in a wax free seal, I don't believe it would work because the inner diameter is rough and not equal all around. That leaves a double Wax Seal or a very thick one as my only option since the tile is about a quarter inch above the flange that they installed.

 

[Reach4]

I can't tell how messed up the flange is. You would want the wax to hit the inner part of the black outside of the hole. The DANCO Hydroseat may be a good choice for you. It goes over a wax ring, or 2 wax rings... whatever. It then holds the toilet.

While it is intended that the toilet go right on top of the installed Hydroseat, I might consider a little wax. I have never used one of these, but it may fit your needs best.

 

[Shaklee3]

Thanks! I really appreciate the advice. I haven't seen that product before.

 

[Shaklee3]

Thanks! I really appreciate the advice. I haven't seen that product before.

It's amazing how the more you read about these new products, the less sure you are. I went to big orange and bought the sani seal, hydroseat, and perfect seal. I saw sani-seal on here had some recommendations, but after reading the first few oneline reviews, I was shocked to see how bad it worked for some people. The hydroseat I'm trying to use as a last option because I'd rather not drill into the tile, and one of the spots the bolt would go into is very close to the edge of the tile. Do you have any opinion on the perfect seal, or should I just stick with the plain ol' extended wax ring?

 

[Reach4]

It's amazing how the more you read about these new products, the less sure you are. I went to big orange and bought the sani seal, hydroseat, and perfect seal. I saw sani-seal on here had some recommendations, but after reading the first few Amazon reviews, I was shocked to see how bad it worked for some people. The hydroseat I'm trying to use as a last option because I'd rather not drill into the tile, and one of the spots the bolt would go into is very close to the edge of the tile. Do you have any opinion on the perfect seal, or should I just stick with the plain ol' extended wax ring?

I see your more difficult problem as holding the toilet in place without over-stressing the piping, more than sealing. Yes, you must seal. That is the easier part.

Do you see that mechanical aspect as an important problem?

Are you over a crawl space?

I am sure you wish you had addressed this before putting down the tile.

 

[Shaklee3]

I see your more difficult problem as holding the toilet in place without over-stressing the piping, more than sealing. Yes, you must seal. That is the easier part.

Do you see that mechanical aspect as an important problem?

Are you over a crawl space?

I am sure you wish you had addressed this before putting down the tile.

To some degree yes, I wish it would have been addressed before putting down the tile. However, these were professional plumbers that put the flange on, so I expected they knew what they were doing. Just pulling on the flange as hard as I can, it does not move, so it at least feels fairly secure. This is on a second story, so I don't have easy access underneath. I probably should have been more clear up front. I don't expect the support on the pipe to be an issue just based on how sturdy it feels. My bigger concern was that a big portion of the horn appears to have been hacked away at, but then repaired with some ABS glue. I don't see visually anywhere that that looks like it could leak, but obviously just because I can't see it doesn't mean it's not there.

That's why I at first I was looking at these waxless flanges that go down into the pipe. Then the fact that the horn at the top may have Cuts in it wouldn't be so much of an issue. I was also concerned at first about the depth of the flange, but you and others from this forum have alleviated that concern. So if I'm going to assume that the cuts in the horn are actually sealed properly, then I should be able to get away with just using a bigger seal. Would you agree?