Flange bolt broke, can't remove

Am I screwed?

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Jason Lowe

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Hi, this is my first post. Hoping someone can help. Toilet in our second floor master bathroom was leaking around base. Removed it, wax ring looked OK, but replaced it anyway. Reattached toilet and it was still leaking. Removed toilet again to troubleshoot, and the flange bolt on one side broke.

And I can't get it out. Both of the flange bolts appear to be stuck under a Sioux Chief Raise-a-ring extension. The extension appears to have three screws that secure it to the floor (all of which are rusted to the point were I don't think they can be removed). There also appears to be some kind of caulking on the inside of the extension/outside of the pipe coming up from the floor.

Had a pro come out, he's saying that the pipe has to be replaced and will require tearing the ceiling out on the first floor below where the toilets are. There is another toilet and shower nearby, so he said it might be higher if the pipe is not a straight line but part of a T for the shower or other toilet. Best case scenario is $625 and a hole in my first floor ceiling.

Any chance some can fix this without ripping drywall out? I've attached some pictures, hopefully I did it right. Any advice or information would be really appreciated.
 

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Reach4

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ny chance some can fix this without ripping drywall out? I've attached some pictures, hopefully I did it right. Any advice or information would be really appreciated.
Pictures are fine.

One idea would be to use an oscillating multi-tool to saw the spacer ring, as shown in attached picture. Remove a little segment, and slide the broken bolt out.

You should be able to use a repair flange, if you prefer. The new t-bolts would go above the plastic and below the repair ring.

Superior Model # 21015 repair ring has mounting tabs outside.
PASCO 21013 is similar in red

Sioux Chief 886-MR is not split. I think it would usually go over the top.
https://www.siouxchief.com/products/drainage/residential/closet-flanges/spacer-repair/ringer
Clearly says stainless now.
 

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Jadnashua

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DOes the flange itself move around if you press on it either side to side or up and down? Can't see if they used screws to attach it, and, it looks like the subflooring hole was cut way too big. The flange needs to be solidly attached to the subflooring, and then when setting the toilet with wax, you must first shim the toilet so it won't rock, then remove, then set it back onto the shims with the new wax ring. If the toilet moves, the wax won't rebound, and will leave a gap that can leak.

Whomever installed that spacer ring didn't do you any favors...it would have been better to align the slots so you could deal with the bolts. Plus, a flange with a stainless steel ring (attached with either brass or SS screws) is the preferred version versus an all plastic one which is much weaker and can crack if the toilet is knocked too hard, or warp and potentially crack if you overtighten the bolts.
 
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