Fixing minor leaks around pressure tank connections?

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zuren

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I had a water emergency on Sunday where one of the connections coming out of my pressure tank failed. In the 1st pic you can see that everything was pretty corroded, the valve to the house supply would not fully close, and the pressure gauge hasn't worked since we moved in 2 years ago. The joint at the top of the main valve failed and water was spraying everywhere. I shut everything down and drained the pressure to contain the problem. As I started to take the assembly apart, some connections just disintegrated.

In the 2nd pic, I have rebuilt everything with new parts, trying to use as much brass as I could obtain. I know that galvanized parts are not preferred but I went with what I could find on short notice. I was told that upgrading to a higher pressure switch would be okay so I went from a 30/50 pressure switch and annoyingly low water pressure in the house to 40/60 and the pressure is MUCH better (upped the PSI on the bladder to 38 PSI).

My problem now is with the connections on the black poly pipe and the dielectric fitting. I have a very slight weep of water at the 3 barb connections for the poly pipe and the lower connection for the dielectric fitting. I keep tightening the dielectric fitting and the leak is becoming less, so I guess to did not tighten it well enough (now I see that there is not much love for dielectric fittings, oh well...). I'll keep tightening until the leak stops. The connections on the poly pipe have me a bit frustrated. I heated the pipe slightly with a heat gun before inserting the barbed connectors and clamping. Should I heat those connections again to try to get a better seal? I've also read that the worm-drive hose clamps are not the best (oetiker clamps being better). I tried 2 opposing worm-drive clamps on each connection and that actually made the problem worse so I'm back to single clamps.

The existing leak is a drop or 2 of water every 30 min. from each connection, so nothing is dire but I would like to eliminate all of the leaks 100% (pressure tank is in a basement room with flooring). Any suggestions would be much appreciated!
 

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Reach4

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Looking at the letters on this picture snip, do you have leaks at A and B? If so, I expect that gray barbed elbow is a poor quality fitting with mold marks. The little mold marks act as a path for water. Maybe they were designed for yard irrigation where pressure is low or leaks won't be noticed.

Is there an ASTM number on your black tubing?

I think you are saying you have leaks at I and/or J also. Right? Where else?

C looks like a brass barb, so I would guess that is not leaking. Is it?


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Greenmonster123

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[QUOTE="zuren, post: 510001, member: 73347



The existing leak is a drop or 2 of water every 30 min. from each connection, so nothing is dire but I would like to eliminate all of the leaks 100% (pressure tank is in a basement room with flooring). Any suggestions would be much appreciated![/QUOTE]

That's what's called a "self sealer" put a pie pan under it the leak will clog up with minerals in no time lol. Or you cold try heating up the poly a bit an tightening with cordless impact driver. I have had good luck with that method but beware cheap clamps will break.
 

zuren

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Looking at the letters on this picture snip, do you have leaks at A and B? If so, I expect that gray barbed elbow is a poor quality fitting with mold marks. The little mold marks act as a path for water. Maybe they were designed for yard irrigation where pressure is low or leaks won't be noticed.

Is there an ASTM number on your black tubing?

I think you are saying you have leaks at I and/or J also. Right? Where else?

C looks like a brass barb, so I would guess that is not leaking. Is it?

ASTM number on the poly pipe is D2239. PSI rating is 100.

A & B is where I have known leaks at the moment. I did not note any rough mold marks on the elbow but I wasn't paying that close of attention. I'm guessing I should have gone with something like this? - link

I just dried everything up really well and wrapped the top connections with rags so I can answer the rest of your questions accurately. Some of the drips were running down so it was hard to tell what was truly leaking...
http://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBit...gclid=CPfsquvU2dECFZKAaQod1XkJXg&gclsrc=aw.ds
 

Reach4

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ASTM number on the poly pipe is D2239. PSI rating is 100.

A & B is where I have known leaks at the moment. I did not note any rough mold marks on the elbow but I wasn't paying that close of attention. I'm guessing I should have gone with something like this? - link
No. That is for PEX, and PEX is smaller ID than ASTM D2239. If the fitting(s) you used were for PEX, they are smaller.

1 inch ASTM ASTM D2239 is 1.049" ID. 1 inch PEX is 0.875" ID.
That is a big difference.

http://www.deanbennettsupply.com/insert-fittings.html has a suitable elbow; that would be $14.2o plus shipping.

http://www.spearsmfg.com/super_sour... Price Catalog/028 Barbed Insert Fittings.pdf looks like Spears 1406-010 would be good. I cannot be sure that is not what you have already. That can be found pretty cheaply.
 
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zuren

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No. That is for PEX, and PEX is smaller ID than ASTM D2239. If the fitting(s) you used were for PEX, they are smaller.

1 inch ASTM ASTM D2239 is 1.049" ID. 1 inch PEX is 0.875" ID.
That is a big difference.

http://www.deanbennettsupply.com/insert-fittings.html has a suitable elbow; that would be $14.2o plus shipping.

http://www.spearsmfg.com/super_sourcebook/SSB-1 Part 1 List Price Catalog/028 Barbed Insert Fittings.pdf looks like Spears 1406-010 would be good. I cannot be sure that is not what you have already. That can be found pretty cheaply.

This is the elbow I have - http://www.menards.com/main/plumbin...-pvc-insert-elbow/p-1444431317315-c-13795.htm

The previous link of the PEX elbow was just an example of a brass 90* elbow. Sorry for the confusion. I definitely have the correct diameter fittings.
 
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