First Water Softener

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Bronco_Bustin

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I apologize in advance for my ignorance, I grew up in San Diego where "hard water" only meant calcium and that you shouldn't wash your car in direct sunlight to avoid water spots and once every 5 years or so you needed to soak your shower head in vinegar.

Now I'm in San Antonio and my boss says my water heater will turn into a 400lb limestone brick without a water softener.

After researching on and off for a couple months I still don't feel like I have a handle on this topic, but this forum appears to be the most knowledgeable.

My 2,400sq.ft house is a new build tract on city water with a 1-inch loop, and I only care about 2 things:
1. Avoid any drop in water pressure. (The far end of our house has hardly any pressure as is)
2. Prevent premature appliance failure.
That's it. I don't care about how "soft" the water feels on my skin in the shower.
I don't care about the lather of soaps or how I might need to use extra detergents or fabric softness.

My 1st neighbor bought a fleck 5600sxt 48000g from 602abc for $600-ish and said it took him 2-hours to install. The included test kit showed we were at 15 grains hardness.
2nd neighbor paid $2,000 to a softener company including install. And the 3rd neighbor just bought a $300 Whirlpool from Lowes and paid a plumber $300 for install.
I have called around to get quotes and they range all the way up to $5000 including lifetime warranties and replaceable carbon.

3 bath, me + wife + baby

Can you point me in the right direction? Equipment suggestions? Trusted retailers? Reasonable price range?
I've seen some of you recommend the Fleck 5800 for flow rate but I not sure that flow rate is synonymous with pressure. If I am only washing my hands a lower flow unit "shouldn't" have a noticeable pressure difference?

I appreciate any guidance. With such a huge range of providers and prices from $600-$5000 I feel very overwhelmed. Especially when you guys claim some retailer slap a decent valve on crappy tank components. I think I could handle a DIY install I just want to make sure what I buy is worthwhile. I know to avoid big box stores. If I had to decide today, I would probably copy the neighbor who bought the fleck 5600sxt 48000g but I don't think you'd be a fan.
 

Reach4

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1.5 cuft is a good size for your numbers.

Can you point me in the right direction? Equipment suggestions? Trusted retailers? Reasonable price range?
I've seen some of you recommend the Fleck 5800 for flow rate but I not sure that flow rate is synonymous with pressure. If I am only washing my hands a lower flow unit "shouldn't" have a noticeable pressure difference?
Yes. For hand washing, no noticeable difference.

1. Avoid any drop in water pressure. (The far end of our house has hardly any pressure as is)
That comment is the opposite of your hand washing comment.

Note that normally a softener is not fed to outside faucets. If you want one for car washing, you could add a spigot for that.

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A normal water softener will physically remove the hard water particles. Its an ionic exchange. Some salt will be left in the medium but is not noticeable unless you are on a low sodium diet. Salt has to added periodically to the brine tank. Good units regenerate/backflush according to gallons used and not on a timer. I install EWS water softeners.
There are some other types of "softeners" that use a self sacrificing polyphosphate to change the hard water molecules so they don't clump up as bad. Similar to an ice maker water filter but bigger for a whole house or hot water heater cold inlet only. The hard water particles stay suspended in the water. The medium has to be changed out periodically.
There are some "softeners" that use ultra low electromagnetic waves and pulses to change the hard water molecules so they don't clump as bad. Only AquaRex has lab reports certifying their effectiveness. The testimonials all say the "Scale Blaster, WaterCare, etc. got rid of their dog's fleas, their kids got better report cards, the stinky neighbor moved, and their water is soft as a baby's bottom.
Water flow is always a factor of pressure and pipe diameter primarily. Secondarily by distance and number of restrictions (water softener, fittings, filters, etc.) Under sizing water lines often creates reduction of water flow and water pressure at the ends of the water distribution lines. Tract housing is notorious for just that. Half inch Vanpex pipe has insert fittings that are only 3/8" inside diameter. Every 1/2" fitting reduces the water flow to that 3/8" diameter. Same for 3/4" Vanpex pipe fittings.
 

Bronco_Bustin

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That comment is the opposite of your hand washing comment.

Note that normally a softener is not fed to outside faucets. If you want one for car washing, you could add a spigot for that.

Sorry I wasn't clear. Far end of house = master bathroom sink. (Farthest distance from water softener plumbing in garage)
 

Reach4

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If the tub flow is OK, lavatory may have a low-flow aerator. Try unscrewing the aerator as a test.
 

Bronco_Bustin

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Water flow is always a factor of pressure and pipe diameter primarily. Secondarily by distance and number of restrictions (water softener, fittings, filters, etc.) Under sizing water lines often creates reduction of water flow and water pressure at the ends of the water distribution lines. Tract housing is notorious for just that. Half inch Vanpex pipe has insert fittings that are only 3/8" inside diameter. Every 1/2" fitting reduces the water flow to that 3/8" diameter. Same for 3/4" Vanpex pipe fittings.

So my garage has a 1" loop. As I search for softeners I see the options for adapter sizes (3/4" or 1").
If I choose 1", does that mean I would maintain 1" diameter plumbing throughout the valve/softener system? Or does that just mean it's an adapter to choke my 1" down the diameter to the smaller plumbing within the valving/tank?
 

Reach4

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That just means the adapter period. A 5600SXT and 5800SXT are 3/4 internally but can have 1 inch adapters. The a 5810SXT or other 5810s are 1 inch internally.
 

ditttohead

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Nice sales pitch... sigh.

If you have a 1" main line then a 5810 would be ideal. The cost difference between the 5800 and 5810 is minimal. Check out the valve specs on this page. https://view.publitas.com/impact-water-products/2018-catalog-final/page/36-37

Please understand this is only the valve, not the complete systems. You will notice that many companies show the valve spec and claim it is the system flow rates, this is completely wrong but very common.
 
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