First timer with a fresh dug 480ft well

Discussion in 'Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog. Water is life.' started by Oregonian, Jun 6, 2018.

  1. Oregonian

    Oregonian New Member

    Joined:
    Jun 6, 2018
    Location:
    Oregon
    Well fresh drilled I should say...

    Hi everyone, first timer here so forgive my ignorance on terms. I've been doing my research on putting a system in and this is what I've got so far. Any input on sizing and what brands to use in addition to what's missing or unnecessary would be appreciated. I'm planning to build a system that's going to last but also not excessive for cost reasons. I have a small mobile home with 21 fixture units I'm putting in now. In about 3-4 years it will be replaced with a max 40 fixture unit house. My irrigation needs aren't very high. I have about 12 dwarf fruit trees and a 300 square-foot garden. I have a fresh well dug and need to install my pump system. The well specs are as follows:

    485 ft deep
    7.5 gpm
    6" hole with 4.5" perforated liner
    Static water at 142 ft
    Moderately hard water at 4 gpg.
    250 ft from pump house with a ~20 foot rise.
    Current and future house are ~80 feet from pump house.
    1" water line and 1-1/2 conduit buried from pump house to house.
    No line yet from the well to the pump house.

    I was planning on putting in a Grundfos 1.5hp 31530265, model 7s15-26. This has a 1" npt fitting, I was going to do 200 psi 1-1/4" poly. Not sure if my 1-1/4" is bigger than I need or if 1" is fine. (For the weight or pressure?)

    With my water needs and how much the well produces I'm not sure how far down I need to put the pump to be enough and not too deep to waste money on materials and extra load on the drop pipe.

    Not sure on how often to put a torque arrestor or if any other check values are needed (I believe the pump has one built in.)

    Planning on burning 1-1/2" conduit from the well to the pump house when I lay the poly and doing #8 wire.

    Once in the pump house I think I'll need a water softener but haven't done any research on those yet. I was planing on installing a csv with a 4.5 gallon tank. Or maybe just getting this system https://cyclestopvalves.com/products/custom-pk1a-pside-kick-kit.

    That's about where I am as of today and I'm continuing my research but figured it was a good time to ask for input.
     
    Last edited: Jun 6, 2018
  2. valveman

    valveman Cary Austin Staff Member

    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2006
    Occupation:
    Pump Controls Technician
    Location:
    Lubbock, Texas
    Looks like you have been doing your homework, and you've done pretty darn good. It would be nice to know from how deep the well will make 7.5 GPM? But not knowing I will do a good middle of the road guess.

    Set the pump about 350' to get 300 gallons of storage in the well. If the 7.5 GPM is coming in from above that level, it maybe deeper set than it really needs to be. But if the water is coming from below that, you will just have to see if it recharges enough or if you have to put the pump deeper. I would use the 10S10-15 instead of the 7S pump. It will cost less, pump more water, and have less backpressure for the CSV to work with. I would use 1" pipe in the well, as it will be easier to work with. Attach with long barb clamps and two hose clamps. Use 1 1/4" underground so you have less friction loss. NO TORQUE ARRESTORS. Just use good double jacketed wire like a THHN. That would be a #8-4 wire from pump to control box. The #8 wire will work to 770' total. Then the PK1A kit is all you need to control it, but I would opt for the 10 gallon size tank with a 1.5HP pump.
     
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  4. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2013
    Location:
    IL
    Don't water your lawn and garden with softened water. Take that into account if you need an outdoor spigot somewhere other than at the pump house.

    It may be a good idea to put a branch breaker panel in the pump house powered by that #8 or bigger wire. Then have a 2-pole breaker for the pump and another circuit or two to power the softener and misc. You were probably planning on that, but I thought I would bring it up anyway.
     
  5. Oregonian

    Oregonian New Member

    Joined:
    Jun 6, 2018
    Location:
    Oregon
    My well report doesn't say where they started picking up the water. It only has one line filled out for water bearing zones, "from 180' to 410' ". After I originally received the report I called to ask the driller and he told me it was accumulative. When drilling the well he called me at 420 ft and told me it was at 7.5gpm at that time and asked if I wanted to go deeper to get a higher flow rate. I thought it was odd that he couldn't tell me at what depth he started seeing 7.5gpm, but that's what the man said.

    I don't have a problem with 300 gallons of storage at 350'. I don't see any of my needs ever needing to exceed that.

    Other than being easier to work with is there a benefit to the 1" poly in the well? Friction loss must be much less when going vertical. I've yet to research where to buy it but assume I'll be able to get a 250' roll for the 1-1/4" and 500' for the 1". If thats the case then the extra cost going deeper would then be already accounted for in the pipe, making the extra price being in the wire but I assume the best price point is the same (one 500 foot spool and one 250 foot spool). Of course this doesn't account for the extra load on the pump going deeper. Was suggesting the 10s10-15 based only on the 350' depth? At what depth is that no longer the pump you recommend? (Or would my max depth still work with it)

    Looks like the 10s10-15 is 1hp though, should I still go with the 10 gallon tank with it? This is the best price I've seen so far for it.
    http://boosterwaterpumps.com/index....trifugal-pump-with-aqqe-shaft-seal-49288.html



    Yes, I was planning to and I totally would have spaced the hard water filter in the garden, thanks for mentioning that.
     
  6. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2013
    Location:
    IL
    Here is a table showing the gpm delivered with a 1 hp 7 gpm pump. It also shows 1 10 gpm for comparison.

    Note that at 360 ft, the pump is still delivering water at 60 PSI, but it has slowed down. At 180 to 260, it is in its happier place.

    [​IMG]
     
  7. Oregonian

    Oregonian New Member

    Joined:
    Jun 6, 2018
    Location:
    Oregon
    I was looking at the Pk1A kit options and wasn't sure what pressure setting to go with, I was thinking 70. Also not sure if I needed low pressure cut off or not.
     
  8. valveman

    valveman Cary Austin Staff Member

    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2006
    Occupation:
    Pump Controls Technician
    Location:
    Lubbock, Texas
    Yes the 10S10-15 will still work from 430' just fine. You can have as much pressure as you want with the PK1A and the 10 gallon tank, but a constant 60 PSI using a 40/60 switch setting is the most common. You can always turn it up or down if you need more or less pressure.
     
  9. Oregonian

    Oregonian New Member

    Joined:
    Jun 6, 2018
    Location:
    Oregon
    I was aware that I can change the psi on the PK1A, but wasn't sure why they had the option when ordering. Thought maybe it was a different internal part for maximum pressure. Must just be a convenience for easy setup. Is the low pressure cutoff for if you run the pump dry it stops to allow it to recharge and not run the risk of overheating?
     
  10. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2013
    Location:
    IL
    You are right on each count. If you run dry enough, you would want a device that detects running out of water and shuts the pump down. The low pressure cutoff is cheap, but is not foolproof. Plus, a transient condition can shut down your water. A fairly short power outage could shut you down.

    In your case running dry is unlikely, since the proposed pump would deliver less water as the water level approached the pump intake. So the well should be able to produce the 3 or 4 gpm to keep up.
     
  11. valveman

    valveman Cary Austin Staff Member

    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2006
    Occupation:
    Pump Controls Technician
    Location:
    Lubbock, Texas
    The PK1A can bu adjusted to higher pressures, because sometime the house is on a hill or something and needs higher pressure.

    I don't know that running the well dry is unlikely. It depends on where that 7.5 GPM is coming into the well. Like Reach says a low pressure cut off is not foolproof, and can cause nuisance trips, especially during a power outage. A Cycle Sensor will not have nuisance trips and is a lot more foolproof than a low pressure switch.
     
  12. Oregonian

    Oregonian New Member

    Joined:
    Jun 6, 2018
    Location:
    Oregon
    A few questions before I order the stuff I need if anyone can chime in.

    1. What specific clamps so I use on the poly barb fitting?

    2. How many per fitting(2?)?

    3. Is every 20 ft of electrical tape for the wire on the drop pipe the right method?

    4. What weight rated stainless safety line should I get?

    5. 200psi for the drop pipe is definitely not at risk of bursting or giving out? I assume the 1hp motor pretty much guarantees that. Even with the drop and low static water level. (Reducing my buoyancy)

    Thanks
     
  13. valveman

    valveman Cary Austin Staff Member

    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2006
    Occupation:
    Pump Controls Technician
    Location:
    Lubbock, Texas
    Two all SS clamps per connection are best, and I would still tape over them. Tape the wire every 20' or even 10'. 200 PSI poly has a burst rating of at least 400 PSI. I don't like "safety cable or rope", use at your own digression.
     
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