First Time Home Buyer & First Time Water Softener User

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Stoogesman

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Hi everyone!

My family and I are about 4 days away from taking ownership of our first home!

We're beyond excited but so much to take in and learn. The water treatment system is one of them. It looks like I have a pretty old system in my house but was inspected in January and cleared as all good. Other then that I have no clue about this system.

The only thing I can make sense of on the softener tank and the carbon tank is the 'Time of Day' is correct. The pics below I took at 5pm and that's exactly what they showed.

From the research I have done, I understand what the softener and the carbon tanks do and also most systems are set to regenerate at 2am. Ultimately I would like my system to regenerate at 4am. How can I do this?

I am very confused by what the dials mean on the softener and carbon tank. We are a family of 3 if that matters. The previous owners were a family of two, but I believe at least of of there kids recently moved out.

Can anyone decipher how often both tanks will regenerate?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/WTwDnudD3oPj9JmU8
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DeHADzf3BygQAtrM7
 

WorthFlorida

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Congratulations on getting your first home. With an older home do expect to find wear and tear and future repairs and remodeling. A home inspection is not a guarantee that all is good. The inspector (company) may have a warranty statement but read the fine print. The home inspector looked at these units a saw no leaks or damage, but there was no way to know if they are working, therefore it gets a pass.

I don't know what models they are but with mechanical timers, they look like at least 20 maybe 30 year or older units. Nothing wrong with that but the softener resin bed may need to be changed out especially if has not been done in at least 20 years. However a good cleaning by completely flushing the salt tank and a couple of regenerations with iron out can make a world of difference.

Charcoal filters are great but after a while the chemical absorption gets fully depleted. May take 500,000 gallons or more before the charcoal needs to be replaced. A family will use at about 5,000 gallons of water a month.

What to do? First, if you have well water, before the softener take a sample and have it tested so you know what your dealing with. If it's city water, only a hardness and iron content are the more important items you need to know, also have it tested.

With mechanical timers usually to make changes the dials will only turn in one direction. As you can see there are warning labels so check all of them if any of them mention it. Don't force them because if they break, replacement parts are probably not available anymore.

I hope it didn't scare you. I bought my first home in 1979, grew up in a single family home built in 1953, I'm now in my 5th home retired. With every home new things are learned and mistakes made. I've may my share of them.
 

Bannerman

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The Carbon and ? filter (Blue tank) is utilizing a Fleck 5600 'Filter' Time Clock control valve which will backwash the media based on a 12-day rotation. Currently, backwash is programmed to occur on days 1, 5 & 9 as those metal tabs are pulled outward. The photo was taken on day 10 (Red arrow).

The tank size appears that it may be 9" in diameter so it is likely 48" tall and appropriate for 1 cubic foot (1 ft3) media. Carbon is normally not mixed with other media so you will need to identify the second media and when they were last replaced. The replacement frequency for 1 ft3 GAC carbon will be typically 3-4 years depending on the intended purpose for using the carbon.

The softener is utilizing a Fleck 3210 controller which is likely installed on a Fleck 2510 control valve (not visible). That is an 'Econominder' metered control so it is currently shown programmed to regenerate when just over 1,500 gallons (White dot @ 15) has exited the softener. There is shown approx 300 gallons remaining before the next regeneration is to occur. Whether 1,500 gallons Capacity is appropriate will be conditional on the salt setting, the quantity of resin and the quantity of hardness to be removed from the well water. The salt setting is programmable using additional controls located behind the control panel shown in the photo.

Because the regeneration time is programmed at the factory for 2 am, the simplest method to alter the BW and Regen time is to alter the time clock setting for each controller as LL suggested above.

The filter BW and softener regeneration should not overlap. Because the carbon filter cycle will be normally completed in less than 1-hr, suggest setting the time clock so the filter will finish before the softener will begin a regen cycle which will likely require 1.5-2 hrs to be completed.

Although they are both designed several decades ago, both the 5600 and 2510 valves continue to be offered today although they are now more commonly equipped with an SXT digital controller.

https://www.purewaterproducts.com/img/docs/manuals/2510_Service_Manual.pdf
https://www.aquascience.net/downloa..._2510_12_day_timer_easy_programming_guide.pdf
 
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Stoogesman

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Thanks everyone! I am on my way out the door but will respond more in detail later.

Just a quick question before I go...

It is mentioned not to have the softener and the BW filtration overlap. What's the best time adjustment so they don't overlap?

Maybe set the BW filter to one hour sooner than the softener? Is there a way to know on both units what my regen time is?
 

LLigetfa

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It depends on the program wheels/cams on the backwash filter. When I had the old 7 day clock wheels, both the softener and the iron filter took the same length of time to backwash/regen so there were not enough hours in the night to do both. I had to program them to run on different nights.

My current units have smarter heads so the iron filter now only takes one hour to backwash. I set the iron filter to backwash at 1:00 AM and the softener to regen at 3:00 AM. The softener is metered so it can regen on any night of the week. The iron filter backwashes every 3 days so different days from week to week.
 

Stoogesman

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I'm considering buying a new softener.

But have no clue what size to get. Or how to program it for my water...
 

Reach4

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But have no clue what size to get. Or how to program it for my water...
Size: Mainly a function of how many people, how hard the water, how much iron, and how much manganese. A lab test is best. https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/water-testing-labs.92383/

How to program: different softeners are programmed differently. I am familiar with the Fleck SXT controllers and how to program them. Given the data mentioned, I could probably help with the programming.

If you want to buy via a local dealer, you may be more likely to get something more proprietary unless you consider that in advance.
 

Bannerman

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I'm considering buying a new softener.
With well water, it is advisable to take a holistic approach to water treatment. Consider the current water conditions to identify the conditions that are most critical vs optional for treatment. As recommended above and in your prior thread, a comprehensive lab test will be required to identify the elements in the raw well water and the quantity of each.

You already recognize water conditions have changed as the ozone generator that had been utilized in the past, is no longer being used and seems to be no longer needed.

As a new well owner, you likely are not familiar with testing labs so as a starting point, National Labs offer a WaterCheck Standard well package that is comprehensive and is often recommended on this forum. http://watercheck.myshopify.com/?aff=5
 
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Stoogesman

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Thanks everyone. I am told by the sellers that the local water treatment company was in fact out to the the property in January and tested the water and the system and everything was "ok". But taking over the system I'm totally in the dark.

I called the water treatment company and they said yes we know the property and everything was working properly.

After just buying the house, the last thing I want to do is spend thousands on a water treatment system. Unfortunately I'm kind of in limbo.
 

Stoogesman

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Since the ozone system is no longer in place, can I remove the air removal tank? From what I know, it just removes the air after it's ozonated. But since that's obsolete I feel like I don't need that tank.
 

Bannerman

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The white arrow and Capacity dial is indicating the remaining gallons currently is 17.25. If the capacity dial specifies X100 where the 0 is printed, that will be 1725 gallons
 

Stoogesman

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The white arrow and Capacity dial is indicating the remaining gallons currently is 17.25. If the capacity dial specifies X100 where the 0 is printed, that will be 1725 gallons

Interesting. The picture I took before looks like it was set to around 1500 gallons capacity. Why did this change? I didn't touch anything...

Here's the pic from a month or so ago. What is the white dot in the pic below?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/yatT7oCubn2j2m4v7
 

Bannerman

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I now see the X100 in your latest pic.

The White dot aligns with the capacity that is programmed. Although the last pic shows the white dot at 1525 gallons, the white dot is not visible @ 1525 in the previous photo. To change the capacity setting requires pulling out the smaller clear grip toward you where the 2 people and numbers 1-7 are located before turning that dial to set Capacity.
 

Stoogesman

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I now see the X100 in your latest pic.

The White dot aligns with the capacity that is programmed. Although the last pic shows the white dot at 1525 gallons, the white dot is not visible @ 1525 in the previous photo. To change the capacity setting requires pulling out the smaller clear grip toward you where the 2 people and numbers 1-7 are located before turning that dial to set Capacity.

I guess I'm a little confused on whether something is off or ok. Why did my capacity go from 1525 to 1700ish? Sorry for the confusion.
 

Bannerman

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The Capacity setting and Remaining Capacity are different things. Capacity remaining should not be greater than the amount programmed.

Where is the White dot now located?

Can't explain why the setting would change. Either you changed the setting without realizing it or, the spring is not pulling the clear dial back to lock it to the gear behind.
 

Stoogesman

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The Capacity setting and Remaining Capacity are different things. Capacity remaining should not be greater than the amount programmed.

Where is the White dot now located?

Can't explain why the setting would change. Either you changed the setting without realizing it or, the spring is not pulling the clear dial back to lock it to the gear behind.

I can't see the white dot. It's currently hidden by the time of day gear to the left.

What is the difference between the capacity and the remaining capacity setting?
 

Bannerman

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Capacity is the setting that is programmed. If 1000 Capacity is programmed, regeneration will be triggered when 1000 gallons of soft water has exited the softener since the prior regen cycle.

Remaining Capacity is not a setting but only an indication. If only 300 gallons was used since the last regeneration, 700 gallons will be the capacity that is remaining.
 

Stoogesman

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Capacity is the setting that is programmed. If 1000 Capacity is programmed, regeneration will be triggered when 1000 gallons of soft water has exited the softener since the prior regen cycle.

Remaining Capacity is not a setting but only an indication. If only 300 gallons was used since the last regeneration, 700 gallons will be the capacity that is remaining.

So when I see the white dot I'll know if it's set to 1525 gallons?

Sorry just trying to soak all this in. In the one pic I took a month ago, the white arrow was pointing to around 3000 gallons. And the wbjre for was showing at the 1525 mark.

Today the white arrow is pointing to 1700 but the white dot isn't visible.
 
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