Final plumbing, second floor bathroom

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mammoth

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OK, guys. It’s the final step for my second-floor bathroom. It’s a very old house, circa 1900.

I have a bathroom that is roughly 5’ x 8’. One end is the sink and toilet. The other end is the tub. In the wall behind the sink and toilet (which are spaced in their 5 feet width dimensions according to code), I installed a sink drain that goes into the toilet drain. They’re both served by a 2 inch vent stack going up to the attic. The toilet drain goes about 6 1/2 feet horizontally under the floor and then joins the tub drain. This tub and toilet drain also has a vertical 2 inch vent stack that goes up to the attic. The two vent stacks I am joining together in the attic and then taking a 3 inch vent through the roof.

The tub/toilet (and sink) drain goes into a vertical 3 inch drain stack and down about 9 feet. The stack then turns horizontal and goes about 2 feet underneath stairs. Then it goes vertical again to get into the basement and joins a main drain for the house.

I put a cleanout just above the sink drain for the toilet drain (where the sink drain joins and goes down to meet the toilet drain) , and I am also putting a clean out where the drain in the basement joins the main drain for the house.

I can draw a picture, but hopefully this gives you an idea of what’s going on.

I am ambitiously running this inside the existing floor, which has about 8 inches of space. I am running parallel to a joist inside the second floor, so I don’t have to worry about going through joists. I seem to have just enough space to get 1/8th to 1/4 inch slope in the pipe. As it turns vertical underneath the tub at that wall, I will have to go through the first floor ceiling inside the room below, and then go back inside the wall—the joist at that end of the bathroom (perpendicular to the other floor joists, because it’s at the wall) won’t allow me to put the tee fitting inside the wall until I get into the room below. So I will have to box out a small bit of this pipe in the room below. And cut an access hatch in the wall of the room below to make sure I attach everything correctly (to solvent weld pipes and of course attach the pipe to studs).

I have pulled up as much of the floor as I dare touch that under the tub where I can reattach it without visible damage. This means that I must put the pipe in the floor in at least two sections. I am using a no hub coupling to join these two horizontal sections of toilet drain pipe together. Specifically, I am using a the coupling with the steel sheet metal that surrounds the rubber part, which conforms to code as far as I can see. I wanted to solvent weld the PVC sections together, but it seems like that is crazy talk, as far as most plumbers are concerned. As in, I’d never be able to twist the pipe together properly to get a good seal, and I’d be asking for leaks.

Did I miss anything? If this works the way I think it will, then it will be huge.
 
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Reach4

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Specifically, I am using a the coupling with the steel sheet metal that surrounds the rubber part, which conforms to code as far as I can see. I wanted to solvent weld the PVC sections together, but it seems like that is crazy talk, as far as most plumbers are concerned. As in, I’d never be able to twist the pipe together properly to get a good seal, and I’d be asking for leaks.
Are you saying that you don't plan to solvent cement the PVC together, or that you want the ability to adjust?

I like the Gorilla PVC PrimaGlue. It dries slower than the regular stuff. I am not saying that you can rotate things after putting the pieces together, but I think it covers nicely without having to twist. Wet both pieces and push together.

For a pro, it would not be as good, I think. I don't know what the cure time is, but I give it an hour. Not being a pro, I can wait.

It is also nice that you can keep it on the shelf for much longer than the regular stuff.
 

mammoth

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From what I’ve read, it seems like I would have a tough time mating and sealing the pipes (especially twisting them properly in time) with PVC cement. So I was going to use this kind of coupling instead. If a Gorilla glue version would be slow enough to allow me to make a better seal than regular PVC cement, I would be all for it.
 

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Terry

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I prefer gluing when I can. You have a little time to smear the two pipes together. If it's primed and glued, it's pretty much a done deal. I'm so used to swerving the fittings that I hardly notice it now.
 
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