Final Bowl Test with AAV

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Michael Hutchinson

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Hello all! I appreciate these forums greatly, ive learned a substantial amount from reading all of your posts.

I have a question in regards to a bowl test with AAV’s. Would they need to be capped prior to testing, or would the water bowl
Test work properly with the AAVs installed?
 

Michael Hutchinson

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I saw this "bowl/rim test" posted Oct 28 2019.
It is a crazy test. UPC does not require it. Is a code official in Ohio requiring one? Very curious, what code is it based on?
Where in the world other than Ontario did they invent and use it.


So my inspector in Columbus, Ohio is requiring it. Maybe due to me not being a certified plumber? I had zero idea it was required as plumbing code does not require and when he called I was shocked about it and had to reschedule the inspection and go buy the supplies to conduct it.
 

Reach4

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Sure would test your toilet wax.
 

Jeff H Young

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Kind of a random posting Michael. I never heard of this , and what work did you do? new house? bathroom remodel?
we fill through roof on rough inspection , maybe you buried all the pipe befor inspector came out? no idea only you would know why
 

Reach4

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In a regular rough inspection, the closet flange is blocked. So the wax ring is not tested.

In searching, I ran across http://www.rossplanningandbuilding.com/docs/ManufacturedHomeInstallationPermits/PlumbingTesting.pdf

DRAINAGE SYSTEM TESTING
Installer shall perform the following test and provide results to the Inspector. Inspector may request to be present for these tests.

Flood Level Test
Cap off Main Drain under home
Plug tub/shower drains
Fill system to level of toilet bowl rim
Release trapped air in shower and tub and re-plug
Refill to rim of toilet
Let stand for 15 minutes
Check for water leaks
Check level in toilet to determine loss of fluid
Repair leaks and retest
Repeat until passes test
Remove caps and allow system to drain.

3) Yes ____ No ____ Drain system passes test
Note: A HUD home will never pass a can test, also called a bowl test, due to the air admittance valves or Studer vents that are required under the sinks and lavatories.
DO NOT PERFORM A BOWL TEST OR A CAN TEST.​
That note surprises me, but maybe the test requires vents that can release air. If you wanted to release air, you could unscrew the AAV, presuming that is higher than the rim of the toilet.
 

Jeff H Young

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still dont get it. I think I vaguely heard something about this bowl test sure sounds stupid to me. the op is leaving something out this isnt a normal test and im not playing guessing games as to why in heck he doing this.
 

Michael Hutchinson

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I’m not leaving anything out, I passed the 5 psi test on the rough. This is a whole home remodel where I’ve gutted down to the studs. This may be an Ohio thing? By trial and error, I’ve learned that the bowl test won’t hold with AAVs and I used clean out caps to plug them.
 

Jeff H Young

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I’m not leaving anything out, I passed the 5 psi test on the rough. This is a whole home remodel where I’ve gutted down to the studs. This may be an Ohio thing? By trial and error, I’ve learned that the bowl test won’t hold with AAVs and I used clean out caps to plug them.
ok good thanks I m trying to understand why your testing this test is so forighn to me. of cource ive done air test befor . but only in freezing weather. It helps to understand knowing that its a complete remodel and that plumbing work was done.
I think I vaguely remember hearing of this test, maybe after so many years out of service or when a house is moved and a new certificate of occupancy is given they require it, so that instead of filling the whole house wit water and risking flood damage this "simpler safer test" allowed but dont know.
apparantly your info suggests the aav wont allow test unless a way to disable (hold it closed) but likely remove and cap.
if it still dont pass you got a leak
 
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