Filters not requiring power...

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Powerless

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Hey,

I'm in a position where electric Backwash Valve is not possible.

What are my options, I'm thinking Aqusana ? Or any other filters that does not require power.

I just came across filter with what looks like a manual valve? Has anyone used this before, who makes this, I assume that they are universal and fit any tank ? No sizing required

Please advise.
 

Bannerman

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What do you want to filter out of the water? Quantity of contaminant?
How many people? (Quantity of water use each day?)
As you're 'Powerless' ;), do you have enough pump flow & pressure and well capacity to be able to back wash any filter?

As the manual valve is a back washing valve, you have the pressure and flow to be able to expand and lift media You must also remember to actually perform the procedure on a regular basis. While the valve will fit standard 2.5" threaded tank openings, the DLFC flow restrictor button will need to be sized specifically for the media type and tank diameter.
 

Powerless

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Hey,

It's a well water but transfered to gravity tank and accelerated by a pump feed to me.

3 people, 14-15 gpm

I been looking at multiple sellers for those valves but no one seem to sell any parts to customize them...

Would staying with Upflow or downflow is a decent option for carbon ?

I don't have any water tests at the moment, but over chlorination is an issue as they inject randomly ... no standards here
 

Bannerman

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but no one seem to sell any parts to customize them...
customize?

So it appears you're interested in GAC to remove the chlorine.

Would staying with Upflow or downflow is a decent option for carbon ?
With a back washing configuration, back wash would be upflow to flush out debris and to lift and reclassify the media. You would want service flow to be downward to keep the media tightly packed to ensure the water has the most contact with the media.

After seeing your other thread, it appears that you're wanting to fill the tank tightly so it may not matter whether it is up flow or down as the media would be tightly packed regardless.
 

Reach4

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I been looking at multiple sellers for those valves but no one seem to sell any parts to customize them...

This would let you use 3 valves to do a manual backwash. A, B, and C are valves.
IMG_6.png

With backwashing, you would want downflow in normal service. Watch the drain for carbon. If you see some, close valve C partially, and remember the setting where you were not blowing activated carbon out. Maybe you could get an external DLFC.

With no backwash, I think you would want upflow.
 
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Powerless

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Wow that helps, Gracias

Did any one used those valves ? I guess better this valve then no backwash ?

I would have to get creative with plumbing, so I can backwash second tank with fresh water, as there is no bypass.

Are there any known brands for this valves?

All the best
 

Reach4

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Are there any known brands for this valves?
My drawing is for three separate valves that are not special. Quarter turn ball valves are best for several reasons, but those are readily available.

Normally you would like to see about 5 GPM backwash for a 10 inch tank for activated carbon backwash. Higher temperature water should have higher GPM. Since backwash expands the media, you would leave space for the expansion.
 

Bannerman

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I think Reach4's diagram would work with a simple In/Out head and some full bore ball valves. By altering the valve positions, the flow would be reversed through the media bed. and out to the drain. As this would function equivalent to a back washing head without being automatic, you should not fill the tank(s) with media but only the usual prescribed volume for the tank size.

As the drain could permit too much flow thereby causing excessive lift of the media while back washing, adding a flow restriction device such as a a another partially open valve would restrict the flow. The partially open valve would remain set to the flow rate required while the other valve would be operated to turn the flow to drain Off or On.
 

Reach4

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As the drain could permit too much flow thereby causing excessive lift of the media while back washing, adding a flow restriction device such as a second partially open valve would restrict the flow.

It is not clear if the backwash flow is all by low-head gravity, or if the booster pump has already done its boost before the carbon tank.
 

Powerless

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Thank you, how do you feel about this ?
Im a little concerned about the plastic leaching stuff...

So is poor man backwash worth it, or should I stay in out / no backwash, thx

51nuv1LZX6L.jpg
 

Bannerman

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The pre-configured manual backwash valve, would eliminate the manual ball valves in Reach4's diagram, except if you wanted to use the ball valves to build a bypass.

It appears that the plastic resin used for the manual backwash valve, maybe the same as that used in Fleck and Clack valves. Since its intended for potable water supply use, look for 'NSF' certification as verification the product is safe from toxins.

While the valve manufacturer is not indicated in the Amazon listing, I seem to recall a very similar manual valve listing which indicated the manufacturer was Clack.
 
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Powerless

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Gracias, I will try to track the Clack Valve,

Question about tank replacement, I found amazing local deal on 13x54 enpress tanks,

Going larger tank more media .. will it slow down gpm in the building, or will it increase it ?

Thank you
 

ditttohead

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increase. Watch out for mazing deals... there have been some problems with the lower plates.

We sell the manual valve described. It is of acceptable quality. Do not use the screens it ships with, those are not worthy of even being called garbage. You can crush them minimal hand pressure. These are several manual valves available. I have seen Pentek use those valves overseas. Not for the US. Again, they barely pass quality control, but they are far better than most others. For a good manual valve, use the 2510. It also has high quality bypasses and plumbing connectors available.
 

Powerless

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gracias, I can't find any mention of manual fleck valves anywhere ... all are electro mechanic, require power.

So maybe building back wash using in/out plate with regular ball valve is better then this contraption ?
 

Powerless

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Reach 4 here is your and improved sketch ..

Do you guys think that this is better then not using backwash at all ... or using the crappy manual ones ?
Has anyone tried using regular in out plates for backwashing setup ?

Gracias
 
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Reach4

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Disadvantage of multiple valves is the complexity to do or explain to somebody else.

I drew my lines to try to indicate that the normal water output is from the dip tube to get downflow during normal info.
 

Powerless

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Yup, I think essentially we are one the same track, I hope

Goal is if system is downflow to push water from the other side of the in ou head ? And drain ?

Does logic in the diagram works,

Simply reverse flow and disconnect second filter so all water goes to s1 and to drai
 
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