Feedback on Bathroom Renovation

Discussion in 'Remodel Forum & Blog' started by jeffesonm, May 19, 2016.

  1. jeffesonm

    jeffesonm New Member

    Jan 4, 2009
    New Jersey
    Looking for some feedback on my first bathroom renovation project.

    I plan to upgrade this half bath to a 3/4 bath... the room is only 5' x 6' but I'm hoping with some creativity I can make it work:
    • Convert the regular door to a pocket door
    • Use wall mount toilet, sink and panel radiator/towel warmer
    • Tiled stall shower that slopes to a linear drain on one end.
    • Vertical type showerhead to try and keep the water contained, but probably just waterproof/tile the whole room like a wet room expecting anything could get wet
    • 1/2" piece of tempered glass to separate the shower area from the rest of the room

    As an FYI, I have full access to the crawlspace below and attic above. Below are two photos of the existing bathroom and then the proposed new layout (tile color/pattern tbd)




    Some initial questions...

    1) Floor - I have 2x8s 16" O.C spanning 11', which gives me L / 377 = ceramic okay. Just to confirm, you measure from where joist meets the sill plate to where the joist meets the opposite support beam? ie exclude the part of the joist bearing on the beam? 377 is just barely within spec so figure it's easy enough to sister a few of the 2x8s for extra rigidity.

    2) Drain - I have been reading lots about linear floor drains, both of the premade (Kerdi, etc) and DIY trench drains. I'd like no curb separating the shower, but did I read correctly that as per code, the drain has to be 2" beneath the shower floor? And something about a flood test?? Also if min slope is 1/4" per foot, that would be 5/8" from end to end across the 5' shower. How do I neatly transition between the flat floor and the slope?

    3) Plumbing - I was eyeing up the Toto Aquia toilet and Geberit toilet carrier. This design calls for moving the plumbing fixtures to an outside wall. The plan here was to build a 2x4 (or 2x6?) wall on the garage side (so I don't lose any bathroom space) and insulate the heck out of it. I have the panel radiator on the opposite wall but I could run the return through the inside plumbing wall to get some extra BTUs in there and make sure nothing freezes.

    4) Shower controls - I was planning to have these on the wall opposite the showerhead, above the radiator. Then run the water line up and across the ceiling and down, maybe just using a ceiling mounted rain shower head. Will I be okay running the line in the attic, if I put it above the ceiling but underneath lots of insulation?

    5) Any other fundamental flaws in this plan?

    Thanks in advance.
  2. DougB

    DougB Member

    Jun 19, 2010
    Software Developer / Engineer
    Minneapolis - Land of 10,000 taxes
    I used a Toto Aquia when I remodeled - and the Toto carrier. It claims to fit a 2x4 wall - via the supplied fitting (an ABS 90 degree elbow with a rubber flange that pushes on to the outlet of the toilet. Since I was installing right in front of the waste pipe - I needed a straight connector, that could go into a wye - but they don't make them - so you may need a 2x6 wall.
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  4. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Sep 2, 2004
    Retired Systems engineer for defense industry.
    New England
    There's a conflict with ADA requirements and the 2" guideline. You really need to discuss your plan with the local inspector. The issue is if the drain were obstructed, 2" gives you some time to notice it and stop the flow. It's much harder to block the full grate on a linear drain than say a 3" round one.

    The pretty grate is often one of the more expensive parts on a linear drain. If you like the look, the least expensive option for the drain cover is the tiled-in drain where you use tile on the top of the drain (it drains around that part) verses a polished, finished metal decorative grate.
  5. jeffesonm

    jeffesonm New Member

    Jan 4, 2009
    New Jersey
    Thanks... I plan on using the Geberit carrier for 2x4 walls and will be moving the original drain location, so hoping I can make it work. It is against the outside wall so the joist header runs along the back and would block where the drain runs down. I think I will stub out the wall an extra 2" so I don't have to drill through that.
  6. Linda Berry

    Linda Berry New Member

    Aug 27, 2016
    Hey!!lovely idea!!All the best with your work.
  7. RachelWiol

    RachelWiol Guest

    Looks great! Will you use door locks?
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