Failed plumbing inspection, need some ideas

[alane24]

I just got nicked on my plumbing for my sink and am scratching my head on how to proceed.

Situation: House has an existing 1-1/4” galvanized stub out nipple that’s threaded. The existing sink had a 1-1/4” tailpiece to 1-1/4” waste pipe. I bought a new sink that uses 1-1/2” waste piping so I needed to figure out a way to make that work with the 1-1/4” stub out nipple. I couldn't find a trap adapter that had a female threaded 1-1/4" connection and a female 1-1/2" connection...this is what could work.

Below is a picture of my solution. Here is what I did:

1. Attached a 1-1/2” to 1-1/4” galvanized reducer to the stub out nipple.
2. Disassembled a 1-1/2” double slip-joint connector by removing the coupling nuts.
3. Screwed the threaded/male end of the slip-joint connector into the female end (1-1/2”) of the galvanized reducer
4. Ran my 1-1/2” tailpiece into the other end of the slip-joint connector

The inspector didn't approve of this and said that he would pass me if I got a slip-joint trap adapter. But the problem is is that I couldn’t find a trap adapter that would go from 1-1/4” (wall side) UP TO 1-1/2” (sink side) to accommodate the new larger waste pipe. And I can’t run a new galvanized 1-1/2” stub out because the rest of the galvanized drain pipe is also 1-1/4"

Any ideas?

Thanks

 

[Reach4]

Bathroom?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Jeff H Young]

If its a "sink" and not a bathroom lavatory you may have a problem as an 1-1/4 trap would be undersized . I've run into this but never had such a problem with inspection , you're kinda in a jam!

 

[Terry]

That looks like a trap for an Ikea bathroom sink.

They used to come standard with the 1.25" p-trap and then switched to 1.5"

Here is their old 1.25" trap.

I have seen p-traps that are 1.5" on the top and reduce down to 1.25" on the side toward the wall. I can't seem to find a picture right now of those.

 

[Jeff H Young]

Good point Terry, He didn't say lav, and if its considered a " Sink" I believe it requires a 1 1/2 trap, as far as I know you cant reduce a drain. the works been inspected and failed . So I don't see a suggestion that would be legal.
My opinion a galvanized water pipe coupling a little hokey, but I would allow a 1 1/2 trap on the 1 1/4 trap arm. had the walls been open I would have advised installing a proper sized trap arm for a" sink" 1 1/2" minimum

 

[Reach4]

If it is a lav, I suspect reducing before a 1.25 trap would be acceptable.

 

[Jeff H Young]

If it is a lav, I suspect reducing before a 1.25 trap would be acceptable.

In a failed inspection I might suspect him to allow but would not expect him to sign card. especially if its not a lav

 

[Tuttles Revenge]

Lets see a picture of the bottom of the sink. If its a kitchen sink drain or a lavatory sink drain.

Bottle traps come with a flanged tail piece with 1.5" threaded nut and 1.25 tail piece..

*edit* Found the correct product to reduce from the sink 1.5" to the wall 1.25"
Reducing wall arm p-trap by JB products.

814PVCBX

 

[alane24]

Bathroom?

If its a "sink" and not a bathroom lavatory you may have a problem as an 1-1/4 trap would be undersized . I've run into this but never had such a problem with inspection , you're kinda in a jam!

Yes, updated an old bathroom.

That looks like a trap for an Ikea bathroom sink.

I should have included this, you're correct, nice eye!

Lets see a picture of the bottom of the sink. If it's a kitchen sink drain or a lavatory sink drain.

It's exactly like the sink that Terry posted a picture of. It's from IKEA and has that proprietary flatted pipe that runs horizontally from the drain, to the vertical extension, then to the trap.

I did send the inspector a couple of schematics with other options, but none of them are able to convert everything to either 1-1/4" or 1-1/2", they all require a reduction of some sort to be compatible with the old 1-1/4" nipple/stub out. See below:

 

[wwhitney]

Options 2 and 3 aren't good, as you'll have standing water in the bottom 1/8" of the lower 1-1/2" horizontal segment.

Go with the p-trap Terry mentioned and Tuttle linked to, it's the elegant solution. Option 1 is also not bad.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[Jeff H Young]

I really like tuttles posted p trap. Curious if its listed compliant? To me the whole issue isn't that big a deal . But just going by my experience taught to not reduce waste. Ikea is such a POS

 

[alane24]

Options 2 and 3 aren't good, as you'll have standing water in the bottom 1/8" of the lower 1-1/2" horizontal segment.

Go with the p-trap Terry mentioned and Tuttle linked to, it's the elegant solution. Option 1 is also not bad.

Cheers, Wayne

Good point. I could make option 1 work right now. I would cut as much of the 1-1/2" extension tube off as possible closest to the sink drain and run a reducer down to 1-1/4". To me this is a simple solution. And really, it wouldn't be much of a reduction, if at all. Maybe 1.5". I wonder where I can find one of these P-traps with a reducing arm. Guessing HD/Lowes/Menards aren't going to carry that.

I really like tuttles posted p trap. Curious if its listed compliant? To me the whole issue isn't that big a deal . But just going by my experience taught to not reduce waste. Ikea is such a POS

I like that idea too, just need to locate that product.

 

[alane24]

I came across this solution, not sure if this is any better. Seems like these IKEA sinks are really troublesome for old 1-1/4" plumbing.

Maybe I could get this to pass? Thoughts?

 

[Jeff H Young]

If its hooked up and working , inspector isn't all grouchy then call out for re inspect most inspectors don't get that big a kick outta screwing with home owners. I'd let it go personally got better things to nit pick

 

[Reach4]

I came across this solution, not sure if this is any better. Seems like these IKEA sinks are really troublesome for old 1-1/4" plumbing.

There is a good chance that the slip joint nut screws right onto your 1-1/4 pipe -- no nipple needed/wanted to connect your 1-1/4 inch p-trap.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbil...with-Rubber-Reducing-Washers-C2798C/205153717
I am thinking that the word "reducing" should not be in the description if that is indeed a 1-1/4 inch slip joint nut.

 

[alane24]

There is a good chance that the slip joint nut screws right onto your 1-1/4 pipe -- no nipple needed/wanted to connect your 1-1/4 inch p-trap.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbil...with-Rubber-Reducing-Washers-C2798C/205153717
I am thinking that the word "reducing" should not be in the description if that is indeed a 1-1/4 inch slip joint nut.

I ended up trying this, but the old nipple is so corroded (even after hitting it with a metal file and steel wool) that I can't get the round washer to seal tight enough and it ended up leaking from the slip joint to nipple junction.

I would just replace the entire nipple, but there's a 90 degree elbow on the backside of the wall that is about 1/2" tigh to the drywall and I cannot get any purchase on the nipple with my pipe wrench.

 

[Reach4]

I ended up trying this, but the old nipple is so corroded (even after hitting it with a metal file and steel wool) that I can't get the round washer to seal tight enough and it ended up leaking from the slip joint to nipple junction.

It sounds line the end needs to be flattened, rather than dressing up the threads. Maybe a flat sanding block, in the vertical plane, could do that. Or maybe dressing up the ID of the first 1/16 inch with aluminum oxide paper would help.

Or maybe a thicker or more resilient washer would seal. This one seems to have a thicker seal.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Keeney-Nut-SJ-1-1-2-x-1-1-4-Die-Cast/1002893068

Also a silicone grease seal and threads might help. I would try my Molykote 111, which is fairly viscous.

 

[alane24]

Ok, thanks for the tips. I managed to find a leak free seal. I installed a 1-1/4" to 1-1/4" galvanized coupler with female threads on one end that screws into the existing nipple, and male threads on the other end which accepted a slip-joint. I packed it full of silicone to prevent any leakage out of the new coupler and joint. So far it's holding. I also ended up trimming off all but 2" of the IKEA 1.5" pipe and used a coupler to run 1.25" all the way down.

Hoping this satisfies the inspector and we can move on.

In all honesty, I don't recall him giving me a good enough reason for not passing my original solution. He merely mentioned that he hadn't seen such a thing before and said it could be "fixed" with a trap adapter. The problem is, he assumed the existing pipe was 1.5" and it's not. If it was that would have been the original solution to my problem. Now that I look back at my work, it was a great solution to adapt 1.5" pipe to a 1.25" existing galvanized stub out.

 

[Tuttles Revenge]

Hah.. I had re-manufactured a 1.25 wall bend with a 1.5x1.25 reducing slipjoint nut onto a 1.5" j-bend and almost got it to not leak to make my own special trap..

One reason that the original installation would fail is in the diagram that you drew of the horizonatl reduction. Water is OK to pool up in a trap because the trap is designed to be self scouring. But once that waste sits in that horizontal trap arm it stops self scouring (probably) and could cause a build up (likely)

And reducing on the vertical, shouldn't be an issue is because its all a giant funnel from the rim of the sink down to the trap. Everything is going to fall down there with no increase in flow, the reason we don't do it in drain stacks receiving the drainage from multiple fixtures.

 

[alane24]

Ended up passing. Mr Inspector didn't love my solution, even though it works perfectly. He said as long as I order a trap adapter I'm good. I just needed to find the female 1.25" to male 1.25" trap adapter online. No one locally stocked that part. Thank for the help y'all.