Extending well casing, need advice

[Nowell Dunwell]

Well casing is cast iron (or is it steel?), about 4-5 feet below grade and stops. Previous owner (guy was here 40 something years and touched every, SINGLE, INCH of the property, inside and out, to my detriment) apparently used some type of 6" rubber coupler with stainless clamps and silicone sealant, which was a good 1/2" too big for the cast iron but fit the pvc... to connect a pvc extension above grade. Noticed water going yellow after a rain, and saw the extension wasn't level and was leaning slightly, and discovered the "diy" extension had pulled apart after digging 5' down.

I can either weld a new extension pipe on, or go with a dresser coupler. Pitless adapter hole is in the existing cast iron thankfully, so would prefer a pipe w/o holes.

Been looking online, and getting confused on what should be used or how it should be done. Actual OD of cast iron is either 5 1/2" or 5 5/8". Anyone have a link to dresser coupler to fit that and pipe for that coupler, or a pipe that can be welded over the existing cast iron? Need about 6' of pipe to be safe. Gonna need to hit it with a wheel flapper regardless, but dunno how even it'll clean up.

 

[Nowell Dunwell]

Also, instead of a dresser coupler, are there standard couplers with threading on at least one end that could be used? That is, a threaded coupler meant to be welded vs. being a compression fitting? Like the idea of a coupler being on the original casing, and having an extension threaded into that. Figuring if anything needs servicing in the future, the pitless will be easier to get at, and if for some reason the extension is ever damaged, it can be unthreaded and replaced.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Boycedrilling]

What an ugly mess.

I have never heard of cast iron pipe being used for well casing, however from your description of the property, anything is possible. Cast iron or ductile iron pipe normally has a cement inner lining. It is not weldable. It uses a bell and socket coupling with gasket. Plain ends are coupled with a sleeve that has bolted compression rings to compress the gasket.

now if it's steel pipe, it can be welded. In my state the only acceptable methods to couple steel pipe are to weld it, or to thread it and screw it together. If you wanted a removable piece on top, you could weld a coupler to your existing casing and thread the bottom of your replacement casing. I have also used flanges for the connection.

 

[Reach4]

http://www.mtrules.org/gateway/RuleNo.asp?RN=36.21.640 says

Table 1 - Minimum specifications for steel well casing.

Nominal Size (inches)
Outside Diameter (inches)
Wall Thickness (inches)
Weight Per Foot (pounds)
2 2.375 0.154 3.56
2 2.875 0.203 5.79
3 3.500 0.216 7.58
3 4.000 0.226 9.11
4 4.500 0.237 10.79
5 5.563 0.244 13.70
6 6.625 0.250 17.02
8 8.625 0.250 22.36​

 

[Nowell Dunwell]

Thanks for replies. Well was dug in 1963, Ohio, so whatever they were using around that time. It's probably steel. Assumed they used the same thing as home sewer pipes, so was thinking "cast iron." Pitless appears to have a welded-in bung for it to sit in.

Going off the chart from the link above, it's considered a 5" pipe with 5.563" OD? If that's the case (no pun) can you guys help with a link to a correct coupler and a threaded pipe section? Not having any luck finding anything that size.

 

[Nowell Dunwell]

OK, typing "5.563" OD" steel pipe got hits and brought up a bunch of options for the actual pipe, but zero luck finding a coupler.

 

[Reach4]

If you get it welded, no coupler needed.

https://www.iac-intl.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/Dresser-type-pip-couplings.pdf
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0..._style_38_steel_pipe.pdf?11955221747555945152
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dresser-5-...olt-7-5-8-overall-length-No-gsks/142944102797 "No gaskets." I don't know what it would take to get gaskets.

 

[Nowell Dunwell]

What about a threaded coupler to weld to the original pipe (even buttweld), so the extension can be threaded in and/or removed. Basically what this guy did in this video (threaded pipe on one end of extension) but with a coupler instead of a Dresser.

Can just but weld a pipe in, but like the idea of being able to remove the extension in case something down the line happens, or a future owner has issues with the pitless, they could unthread and have easier access.

 

[Reach4]

What about a threaded coupler to weld to the original pipe (even buttweld), so the extension can be threaded in and/or removed.

Why would you want it removable?

 

[Nowell Dunwell]

Quote: "Can just but weld a pipe in, but like the idea of being able to remove the extension in case something down the line happens, or a future owner has issues with the pitless, they could unthread and have easier access."

 

[Nowell Dunwell]

Hmm. After careful consideration, looks like butt-welding a pipe in will be the less fuss and a cheaper route since I already have a welder. Can't find any legit 5" weld-in fittings (4" and under seems to be a common size) and the 4" ones are around $120. Dresser couplings are kinda pricey too. Will just install a new pitless adapter for a fraction of that price and have a little piece of mind that what will be going in, will be new and hopefully still be serviceable in the the next 20-30 years.

Thanks again guys. Will probably order from here: https://dmsteel.com/products/sch-40-pipe-5-id-x-5-563-od?variant=24935760647 as that's a pretty good price. Probably better than anything local too.

 

[Boycedrilling]

Any decent sized steel supply yard will have 5 5/8” sch40 steel pipe in stock and will cut to length. I stock it my self. But I can go to the next town of 20,000 people and there are 5 Places I can buy it.

you could buy the length you need and have one end threaded. Then buy a coupler to weld on the existing pipe. If I were doing that, I would chuck it in a lathe and turn one end, so that it would slip on the existing pipe. Easier to get a square weld that way. And yeah, I’ve both the threader and the lathe. So it’s easy for me.

 

[Nowell Dunwell]

Boycedrilling, do you have a link to a 5.563" OD pipe coupler? Everything online seems to be 3" or 4" or under.

I'll call around this week as shipping from that site is more than the actual pipe and see about threading costs.

 

[Valveman]

I don't know, looks like cast iron to me. I would see if I could find an MJ fitting that size?

 

[Boycedrilling]

Any place that carries steel pipe will have or can order a steel threaded coupler. If you’re going to weld, you want a “merchant” coupler, not a cast one.

 

[Reach4]

How about Fernco 1056-552 or 1056-552RC ? The RC version costs more, but I don't know the difference otherwise. I suspect that only the RC version is shielded, but I am not sure. I understand that this would probably not be an approved use.

https://www.fernco.com/xl-couplings

 

[Valveman]

How about Fernco 1056-552 or 1056-552RC ? The RC version costs more, but I don't know the difference otherwise. I understand that this would probably not be an approved use.

https://www.fernco.com/xl-couplings

That is what caused the problem in the first place. See post #1.

 

[Fitter30]

Victalic makes plain end couplings for steel and ductile pipe. First thing clean some of the corrosion off for a measurement with a pencil grinder and wire wheel.

[PDF] 14.02 Style 99 Roust-A-Bout Coupling for Plain End Pipe | Victaulic
https://www.victaulic.com › literature

 

[Reach4]

That is what caused the problem in the first place. See post #1.

A little different....

apparently used some type of 6" rubber coupler with stainless clamps and silicone sealant, which was a good 1/2" too big for the cast iron

Plus, the XL couplings are bigger and stronger. https://www.fernco.com/sites/default/files/literature/XL_Couplings_flyer_InternetVersion_1-19.pdf

Welding would be better. Dresser would be better.

 

[Valveman]

Sounds like a Fernco to me. Lol!