Extending The Well Casing

Users who are viewing this thread

Sammyhydro11

In the Trades
Messages
708
Reaction score
1
Points
16
Location
Massachusetts
Travis, that is not a recommended way to raise well casing.

Gary, i have never posted any CT. regs on this forum. We are in business to provide people with water wells that are constructed in a way that they will last, produce a sufficient amount of water, but most importantly constructed so they don't put peoples health at risk. People don't question quality when it comes to hiring us because we have the merit and experience to provide our customers with the right products, that are installed correctly. There are limited things that a DIY should do with their well system and one of them, in my professional opinion as a licensed well contractor, is raising well casing. If it's not done right, it can pose a health problem, and aesthetic issues with the water. Sometimes it cost a bit more money to do things correctly. It's good piece of mind for our company and the homeowner, and it allows me to sleep very well at night, knowing that things are done right.

sammy

www.tylerwellandpump.com
 
Last edited:

Waterwelldude

Well driller,pump repair. and septic installer
Messages
303
Reaction score
1
Points
0
Location
Texas
Sammy. there are a few "recommended" ways to do the same thing. The way I described is a recommend way to raise the casing.

The optimum way to do it, is to pull the well.
Measure the length from the well head to 1 foot above the surface, or 18" above flood stage, witch ever is greater.
Have a certified welder weld the new pipe to the old casing. Making sure the new pipe is perfectly straight.
If it's not, the pump may not come out or go back in.(submersible)
Have the welds pressure tested or x-rayed.
The pipe will then be rapped with that sticky tar paper to ensure a good seal with no leaks.
Then the pump will be reinstalled.

By using the way mentioned it's legal, safe, inexpensive, easy, and can be done by a do it yourselfer.

I am not trying to tell anyone how they should do something, just giving my opinion.



Travis
 
Last edited:

Sammyhydro11

In the Trades
Messages
708
Reaction score
1
Points
16
Location
Massachusetts
Travis,
welding a new piece of steel casing is by far the best way to do it and is highly recommended. I'm just a little lost with the whole sticky tar paper thing, trying to glue pvc to steel,and using plumbers putty as a seal. Extending someones well casing can turn into a health hazard and should be handled by a professional.

sammy

www.tylerwellandpump.com
 

Waterwelldude

Well driller,pump repair. and septic installer
Messages
303
Reaction score
1
Points
0
Location
Texas
Extending someones well casing can turn into a health hazard and should be handled by a professional.

sammy

www.tylerwellandpump.com


I fully agree with you there.



I'm just a little lost with the whole sticky tar paper thing, trying to glue pvc to steel,and using plumbers putty as a seal.www.tylerwellandpump.com



With the casing turned upside down The glue will melt the pvc at the inside bevel of the belled end of the pipe. As it melts, it forms a seal between the steel and the pvc.

The tar paper stuff I am talking about, is just like the stuff that you would put around a window to seal it in a new house. The proper name escapes me.



Travis
 

Valveman

Cary Austin
Staff member
Messages
14,599
Reaction score
1,296
Points
113
Location
Lubbock, Texas
Website
cyclestopvalves.com
I am still with Sammy on this one. I don't think the stuff that bonds to PVC will also bond to steel. It might melt and fill in the cracks but, I don't think it will bond to steel. I would weld on to the steel casing. To switch to PVC, I would still weld on a threaded male adapter and thread on the PVC using thread compound to guarantee a seal. I have done the PVC slipped over the steel, and even poured concrete around it but, I don't think concrete is the best thing to seal the connection either.
 

Speedbump

Active Member
Messages
4,511
Reaction score
12
Points
38
Location
Riverview, Fl.
One thing I think we can all agree on is: Casing raised above ground is far better than casing terminated underground. Whether it's in a pit or not. Ground water can get into the casing if there is anywhere for it to get in. So the best method to insure no water gets in is either threading or welding steel pipe. Or on the other hand gluing PVC pipe if that is what the well is constructed with.

Anything short of that will and can provide a place for contaminated water to enter the casing and go directly into the aquifer if water is standing around that joint. Now; agreed there are some methods that are better than others, beyond welding or threading, but welding and threading are the safest and hardest to breach.

I would like to hear Porky's take on this.

bob...
 

Gary Slusser

That's all folks!
Messages
6,921
Reaction score
22
Points
38
Location
Wherever I park the motorhome.
Website
www.qualitywaterassociates.com
I agree with bringing the casing up out of the ground because sooner or later someone will have to get into the well and doing it when the pump or jet is bad and the house is out of water is the worst and most expensive time to do it. And in freeze areas, with the ground frozen, and the yard full of 2' of snow, it may not be able to be done then or to even find the well.

The pits and just buried casings with no pit that I've seen are usually less than 6' below grade but I have extended one that was 7' below grade. Actually I'm having trouble remembering any pits; just buried casings with jet pumps and a sanitary seal..

BTW, no one is afraid of a leak with a sanitary seal that's buried in dirt, right? I've never heard of or seen one leak. The rubber seal used in them is used in pitless adapters and Fernco fittings but a sanitary seal ahs about a 1/2"-3/4" seal surface area compared to a Fernco's 4"+.

And the water table/static water level in the well is usually 20-50' deep. Also, a Fernco fitting on PVC isn't going to leak because of water running down the outside of the PVC. They usually go on the PVC and steel casing both 4"+ and fit very tightly, and then they are clamped with the same SS clamps we bury for PE pipe insert fittings. A sanitary rubber seal surface is at best 1/2"-3/4" thick and seals against the casing and around 1 or 2 waterlines and a vent hole that goes UP through the seal and it has dirt on it and any water that percolates down to lay on them.

I think a threaded male PVC fitting or a weld done by anyone here or with any other than a vertical up weld (assuming y'all now what type weld that is), is much more susceptible to leaking/cracking/breaking than a Fernco fitting.
 

Masterpumpman

In the Trades
Messages
729
Reaction score
1
Points
0
Location
Virginia Beach, VA
Website
www.dci-inc.us
Valveman has the best advise.

Metal to metal or PVC to PVC only, No Fernco couplings. . . bad idea!

The well in question should be repaired ASAP by a Professional Certified Well Driller.

Regardless of the state involved or their regulations you don't want to contaminate your own well or the aquifer that everyone uses. You can be libel for cleaning up an aquifer if your well is to blame.

The casing should be brought to at least 12" above grade.

If steel casing, it should have a steel piece of the same size welded to the existing well casing.

If PVC, it should be properly connected with a PVC coupling and solvent welded.

Then if approved by the state, I recommend installing a pitless adapter through the casing below the freeze line and install an approved well cap and vent on the top.
I suggest rechlorinating the well before reconnecting the pump drop pipe.

This is definately not a do it yourself project however if you do want to DIY I recommend that you contract a licensed well driller to assist you and sign of that it was done properly.

I don't agree with many state regulators however we must have rules to protect our worlds greatest resource. . . ground water.

I teach drilling in developing countries where there are few regulations and people are dying from contaminated river, spring and well water.
 

Sammyhydro11

In the Trades
Messages
708
Reaction score
1
Points
16
Location
Massachusetts
Porky, thank you for your input, and i agree 100 percent! This is a good example for why License's and Certifications are required in our trade. It's not only a good and essential tool for business but having the proper knowledge,and merit to show it, brings confidence to the consumers who want a safe and reliable water well system.

sammy

www.tylerwellandpump.com
 

Gary Slusser

That's all folks!
Messages
6,921
Reaction score
22
Points
38
Location
Wherever I park the motorhome.
Website
www.qualitywaterassociates.com
I understand protecting aquifers. I also know that some drillers, maybe most, don't like DIYers and want to protect their 'domain' and their livelihood etc..

Porky, I'd appreciate it if you can lead me to any regulations that specifically state no Ferrnco or similar fittings.

Sammy, the facts are that the vast majority of drillers are not "certified" and that most pump guys and plumbers that do pump work etc, are not licensed (for pump work) or certified.

Also, IIRC I've not heard of any state where a homeowner or the well owner can not work on their well; unless Sammy said MA doesn't allow it.

Porky, do you know if there are any states that prevent that? Anyone else? Valveman I'd appreciate a link etc. to the TX regs you mentioned.
 

Sammyhydro11

In the Trades
Messages
708
Reaction score
1
Points
16
Location
Massachusetts
If someone wants to replace a pump on their well or tank, there is no regulation in MA that keeps them from doing it. Talking with head director of the DCR, it is agreed that replacing submersible pumps, or drop pipes, should be regulated because in most cases the wells are never disinfected. A DIY pulls his pump, or drop pipe, drags the line across the lawn that is full of contaminants, re installs it, and doesn't think twice about what could now be in the water.

But in MA, the construction of a well, altering the well casing, raising the well casing, redeveloping a well,deepening a well, well abandonment, and installing pitless adapters, are all things that require a permit by a Licensed Well Contractor.

I do not object to a DIY doing work on their well, as long as it is within a safe boundary. As a licensed well contractor, and knowing what those safe boundaries are, i will always give my advice accordingly. Money has nothing to do with my advice and should never be when it comes to the public's health.

sammy

www.tylerwellandpump.com
 

tsingerjr

New Member
Messages
25
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
New Jersey
Thanks

Thanks everyone for your suggestions. I called a licensed well drilling company and they are going to come out a take look. BTW- I live in PA.
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks