Elements good - Still run out of Hot Water

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mikemass

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Is it possible an element can:
1. Test good (I have continuity - 13.8 Ohms to be exact)
2. Receives power (I get 230 volts at the element when on)
3. Still not produce heat?
Reason I ask is because on my 120 gallon tank, I run out of hot water after about 10 minutes in the shower. Initially it is super hot, then at about the 10 minute mark, it just goes to pure cold. I checked the dip tube. it is indeed intact and sending the fill water to the bottom of the tank.
I am wondering if my bottom element can be so embedded in sediment that although it powers up, it can't heat the water down there? Any thoughts would be helpful.
 

Fitter30

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The top element comes on first thermostat satisfied then puts power to the bottom satisfied. Clamp on amp meter would be the best meter after a volt meter for checking a element.
 

mikemass

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The top element comes on first thermostat satisfied then puts power to the bottom satisfied. Clamp on amp meter would be the best meter after a volt meter for checking a element.
Yup. I'm aware of how the thermostats "toggle". I confirm they work as should. Good suggestion on getting an amp reading at each element. I will do that. What amperage am I looking for for a normal functioning element? Each element is is 4500 wts and my source voltage is 230, give or take a volt. So I guess I am looking for ~19.5 amps? Thanks.
Dip tube , broken or lack of could be culprit
As stated in first post:
...... <snip> I checked the dip tube. it is indeed intact and sending the fill water to the bottom of the tank.
.... <Snip>
 

Jeff H Young

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watts divided by volts 19.5 that sounds about right.
Im wondering if the water is ever Hot how could 120 gallon tank of hot water not provide a shower? even if you had a power outage I would expect a hot shower.
Missed the detail on the dip tube so if thats good Im guessing you just dont have hot water to begin with
 

mikemass

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Yeah. I'm wondering the same, hence the purpose for me joining the forum and starting this thread.
Here's a few more details of what I've done so far:
1. Drained and Flushed the the tank (A LOT of sediment came out)
2. Inspected Anode (Needs replacing - I have it on order)
3. Inspected dip tube. It's intact.
3. Installed new upper Element & Thermostat (even though they tested okay)
4. Installed New lower Thermostat but DID NOT change Lower Element yet because...

Both the upper and lower Element was very rusted in place. I had to put a lot of torque on that cheapo thin Element wrench tool to get it off. As a result I think I stretched out that thin wall wrench tool. When I tried it on the lower, it was starting to round the nut as the tool now wasn't tight on the nut. So I gave up for now. I am waiting on a heavy duty 1-1/2 socket to arrive so I can go at with with a breaker bar or Impact Wrench.

Which brings me back to my original thought. If everything except the lower element is new at this point, is is possible the lower is not heating the water even though it tests okay? And by ok, I mean:
- 13.8ish ohms of resistance when I test with a multimeter AND
- receiving 230V at the element after the lower thermo kicks on.
(I still have yet to test amperage at the lower)
 

mikemass

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Drain valve.flow with a full stream? If.not bottom could be full of minerals.
This for sure. I had to keep opening and closing the drain valve to get it to flow. Eventually I had a decent stream. When I eventually remove the lower element I am going to try and suck out the bottom with a 3/4” hose attached to a Shop Vac.
 

John Gayewski

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You have a 120 gal electric heater? That's not a common thing. I would think a120 gal electric heater has more than two elements considering a 40 or 50 has two. The one I just looked at has both elements running at the same time and not toggling.

Is the hot water pipe indeed cold after ten minutes of showering? Have you tried to get hot water elsewhere after a ten minute shower and there's none?
 

mikemass

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Hi John. Yes 120gal, 2 elements, 4500 wts each and they most certainly toggle. (Imagine the power draw if they came on together! It’s only on a 30 amp breaker).
And correct. After 10 mins in the shower there’s no hot water anywhere in the house.
Another 10 mins after every faucet is off I can start getting a little warm water again. After 30 minutes or so it’s hot again. But just for that short burst. F54BE062-BB0E-4DFC-B358-BEB1DDE8EDF5.jpeg
 

MISWFL

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Listen with your ear to the tank. You should hear the elements boiling. You can test both by disconnecting the power or ground to one element at a time.
 
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