Electric use for 24/7 pumping

[Bannerman]

casing diameter is 8” only 27’ deep then no casing

Your well drillers report will normally specify the bore diameter below where the casing ends. While the overall bore will often be larger than the casing outside diameter (ie: 10" bore), it could also be smaller below the casing such as 6" or 4".

If we assume 8" ID all the way down to where the pump is located, then there is likely to be 112 gallons in storage within the approx 43' between the initial static water level, down to the pump inlet screen. Since you said the well recovery rate is. 2 GPM, your pump could likely pump at 10 GPM for up to ~13 minutes before the water level becomes pulled down close to the pump inlet screen.

If the pump rate was reduced to 5 GPM, your pump could then likely continue running continuously for 30-minutes or longer. If the pump rate was reduced to only 2 GPM, the water level should not drop much, even with the pump continuing to operate 24/7.

Since 2 GPM is equal to 2,880 gallons per day, the pump would only need to run for 16.67 hours to fill your cistern's 2000 gallon capacity initially. Since most household water consumption is less than 300 gallons/day, your well pump will likely only need to operate for less than 2.5 hrs/day to top-up the cistern each day, thereby ensuring only one pump will be needed to provide water for several days during a storm resulting in power loss.

Since the water enters your well above the pump location, suggest installing a flow inducer shroud around the pump. The shroud will ensure water will be drawn past the pump's electric motor, thereby ensuring the motor will be cooled whenever the pump is operating.

 

[Ext]

My 10 gpm pump is pumping 20 gpm. I’m just interested in reducing the gallon per minute to help the pump otherwise I have
unlimited options with the timer.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Ext]

Well bore is 8”

 

[Bannerman]

My 10 gpm pump is pumping 20 gpm.

Yes, but as Valveman stated in post #12, with no flow restriction (head) to pump against, upthrust within the pump will wear the top of the impellers, thereby reducing the pump's lifespan.

The 10 gpm stated above, is based on using a ball valve or 10 gpm Dole Valve to provide restriction to reduce upthrust by reducing the rate to 10 gpm. The 5 and 2 gpm flow rates stated, are also based on further reducing the flow rate with a ball valve or 5 gpm or 2 gpm Dole valve.

 

[Ext]

I’m going to try to pull the water line up thru the risers. Is it ok to put the dole valve at the end of the waterline .I’m not sure how much line I’m going to have. I may be installing it reaching down into the risers. If it can go right on the end it would be easier. If not I could get a short piece of waterline and attach to the valve and then connect to the end of the waterline.

 

[Reach4]

I’m going to try to pull the water line up thru the risers.

I don't picture what you are describing. Consider a photo of the area(s) you are considering.

Is it ok to put the dole valve at the end of the waterline

Anywhere in the path. https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/electric-use-for-24-7-pumping.113822/#post-798539

 

[Ext]

Tried to send a picture.Said file was too big to load. Cistern is twenty five hundred gallons with a 48” concrete riser. Two holes drilled in the bottom of the riser. One for the water line to the well and one for the water line from the pump in the cistern to the house. The cistern and water lines are buried in the ground. My only access to the waterline to install a valve would be pulling the pump from the well,digging four feet, or pulling the waterline up thru the risers.The waterline deadends in the cistern. I can get a hook pull it up and put the valve on the end or if there’s enough pipe I can cut and install the valve. Can it be at the end.

 

[Ext]

It would be in the pathway. Just don’t know if it needs pressure on the other side.

 

[Reach4]

Tried to send a picture.Said file was too big to load.

In Windows, use MS Paint. Reduce maximum dimension to 900 pixels or less.

Save as JPG.

Cistern is twenty five hundred gallons with a 48” concrete riser.

48 inch diameter 4-inch tall concrete ring holding up a plastic tank?

It would be in the pathway. Just don’t know if it needs pressure on the other side.

The output side does not need backpressure.

 

[Ext]

It’s a concrete cistern. I originally was going to get a 2000 gallon septic tank but they said it was not recommended for drinking water but the 2500 gallon cistern was. It comes with one 24” riser but we added another so it could be buried enough to protect from freezing.

 

[Reach4]

I am starting to get the picture. I presume you have a pitless adapter at the well. Water goes horizontally to a level just above the buried concrete cistern. Probably you have an elbow that directs water down into the cistern. The cistern would have one or two float switches. One controls the well pump. The other, if used, can inhibit the pressure pump when the cistern becomes empty.

So you have limited access to the path of the water between the well and the cistern.

 

[Ext]

Also a pitless in the riser. One float controls power to the well pump. Another float that activates a light if the cistern gets to 1000 gallons. We placed the cistern behind my freestanding garage. I have a utility room in there with the pressure tank and water softener. It supplies the water to the house. The water line ran behind the garage so if we ever had to dig it up we could. There was enough room between the garage and the waterline to install the tank. We located the waterline and electric before digging the for the cistern. Cut the waterline put on two elbows.The one from the well to fill the tank the other from the tank to the garage. Conduit from the riser four feet over to the garage wall.From there along the sidewall and drilled into the utility room. Buried everthing. Tried pulling the pipe up the riser today but it’s too stiff. I ordered a 1” 12gpm dole valve and the well guy said he‘d send a couple of guys over when I get it and we’ll pull the pump and install it just below the pitless. I want to thank you guys for helping. I would have never known that pumping 20 gpm would hurt the pump. Lucky I was keeping track of water level. I wanted to see if the timer was working or I needed to make adjustments. After finding it was pumping 20 gpm I changed it from 4 minutes an hour for 16 hours to run 2 minutes an hour for for 16 hours. Keeping it full. I’m sure it’s not coming on 16 times. The float overrides it.