Ecowater 3000R40

[Llavey]

Hello,

I've read a lot of threads on what the "best" or preferred control modules are for water softener systems and I have a couple questions to add to the mix.

Background:
I have a Ecowater 3000/R40 softener. It's probably 15 to 20 years old (was in the house when I moved in). in 2018 I replaced the resin and it has been working fine ever since. Last week the Sensor housing stopped working. (Part #7173715) Prior to determining this I did check the screens and make sure the turbine was free and unobstructed. I then ordered a new part online (no Ecowater dealers in my area). The part was wrong, but after removing the old part and reinstalling it the flow reading started to function. That was short lived and I'm trying again with a part order( Best I can tell 7309811 is the current part number for this). Whether the new part fixes the problem or not, I'm probably in the market to replace this unit with something less proprietary for parts and service. Note: It has done an excellent job.

Questions:
1. If this repair works. Should I continue repairing it in the future? or replace do to age or possible control board issue $$$
2. Could I fit a Fleck valve assembly on this tank. If so, I'd need to know what parts I'd require.
3. If questions one and two point to replacing the entire unit I'd appreciate recommendations. This Ecowater unit was sized correctly for the home and water conditions. If I purchase a new unit I'll test the water first, but this capacity and performance works perfectly. Lastly, if posting replacement recommendations is not appropriate for this forum I'd appreciate input in a private message.

Current Specs from the manual:
ECR3002R40, Rated Service Flow Rate:12, Pressure Drop @ Rated Service flow Rate: 12 psi, Aux flow rate: 14.3@15 psi, Rated Capacity: 11,224@2.13, 27,774@6.4, 40,314@14.04

Thanks in advance for your time and comments.
Link

 

[Reach4]

Is this a cabinet-type softener, rather than a valve sitting atop a tank along side of a brine tank?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Bannerman]

- City water or private well? If private well, amount of iron and/or manganese in the raw water?
- Hardness quantity in the raw water? Water hardness should be tested at your location as many municipalities will state an average hardness amount from all sources which may not be the hardness that will be present at your location.
- When you replaced the resin previously, what quantity of new resin was installed?
- Number of residents or monthly water useage if known?

Capacity: 11,224@2.13, 27,774@6.4, 40,314@14.04

- Which of the above capacity settings is your unit currently programmed to use?

 

[Llavey]

Is this a cabinet-type softener, rather than a valve sitting atop a tank along side of a brine tank?

Yes. It has a separate salt bin/brine tank and a tank inside a plastic cabinet with the control head hidden behind a plastic cover.

 

[Reach4]

The thread for a typical tank is 2.5" x 8 tpi (thread per inch) industry standard. Fitting a new valve onto an existing tank in a cabinet would be hard. However if the thread matches, it seems possible to just leave the top off to allow space for the new valve.

A new softener would probably use 1.5 cubic ft of resin in a 10x54 tank. But do address Bannerman's questions.

 

[Llavey]

- City water or private well? If private well, amount of iron and/or manganese in the raw water?
- Hardness quantity in the raw water? Water hardness should be tested at your location as many municipalities will state an average hardness amount from all sources which may not be the hardness that will be present at your location.
- When you replaced the resin previously, what quantity of new resin was installed?
- Number of residents or monthly water useage if known?

- Which of the above capacity settings is your unit currently programmed to use?

I’ll have to grab the settings later.. for now.
It is a private well
Water is hard. Paper strip tests are >250, treated is <25
We have a fair amount of iron. Between the whole house sediment filter and the softener it is removed. Without the softener we will see rusty water in the toilets almost immediately

- City water or private well? If private well, amount of iron and/or manganese in the raw water?
- Hardness quantity in the raw water? Water hardness should be tested at your location as many municipalities will state an average hardness amount from all sources which may not be the hardness that will be present at your location.
- When you replaced the resin previously, what quantity of new resin was installed?
- Number of residents or monthly water useage if known?

- Which of the above capacity settings is your unit currently programmed to use?

Bannerman,

Hopefully this helps.

I am on well water. Not sure of actual water test values, I have not had a professional test yet. I do know that strip tests show hardness >250 and softened water <25. Iron is present in the water without the softener, with the softener operating it is fine.

Can't remember what quantity of resin I used. At the time I measured the tank and purchased the type and quantity recommended for the tank size.

The house has 2 residents with a daily use of 41 gal according to the ecowater display.

Hardness is set to 75 grains

Thanks,
Link

 

[Llavey]

The thread for a typical tank is 2.5" x 8 tpi (thread per inch) industry standard. Fitting a new valve onto an existing tank in a cabinet would be hard. However if the thread matches, it seems possible to just leave the top off to allow space for the new valve.

A new softener would probably use 1.5 cubic ft of resin in a 10x54 tank. But do address Bannerman's questions.

ok. I don't need to recreate the wheel with a complex solution to save a couple dollars. No need to overthink this. If the new part doesn't fix the issue I can purchase a new setup. (right now I can manual regen until it is fixed or replaced) If it does fix things I'll still want to be prepared for the next outage.

FYI: The tank is a pain in the butt to remove from the location to measure. The cabinet the tank is inside measures 11" x 12" x 4'. Height was measured to the top of the tank, not the controls.

 

[Reach4]

I would tend toward a system with a Fleck 5600SXT downflow valve. It will of course be "demand"

Also get a Hach 5-B hardness test.

 

[Llavey]

I would tend toward a system with a Fleck 5600SXT downflow valve. It will of course be "demand"

Also get a Hach 5-B hardness test.

Thank you. Hach kit ordered.

 

[Jaynhl]

I to have a ecowater 3000 r40 and after several rebuilds in the last two years i have had it with this valve and it just failed yet again. Can a fleck 5600 valve head be installed onto this resin tank? If so any info/links on parts i would need?

 

[Llavey]

Hello,

I've read a lot of threads on what the "best" or preferred control modules are for water softener systems and I have a couple questions to add to the mix.

Background:
I have a Ecowater 3000/R40 softener. It's probably 15 to 20 years old (was in the house when I moved in). in 2018 I replaced the resin and it has been working fine ever since. Last week the Sensor housing stopped working. (Part #7173715) Prior to determining this I did check the screens and make sure the turbine was free and unobstructed. I then ordered a new part online (no Ecowater dealers in my area). The part was wrong, but after removing the old part and reinstalling it the flow reading started to function. That was short lived and I'm trying again with a part order( Best I can tell 7309811 is the current part number for this). Whether the new part fixes the problem or not, I'm probably in the market to replace this unit with something less proprietary for parts and service. Note: It has done an excellent job.

Questions:
1. If this repair works. Should I continue repairing it in the future? or replace do to age or possible control board issue $$$
2. Could I fit a Fleck valve assembly on this tank. If so, I'd need to know what parts I'd require.
3. If questions one and two point to replacing the entire unit I'd appreciate recommendations. This Ecowater unit was sized correctly for the home and water conditions. If I purchase a new unit I'll test the water first, but this capacity and performance works perfectly. Lastly, if posting replacement recommendations is not appropriate for this forum I'd appreciate input in a private message.

Current Specs from the manual:
ECR3002R40, Rated Service Flow Rate:12, Pressure Drop @ Rated Service flow Rate: 12 psi, Aux flow rate: 14.3@15 psi, Rated Capacity: 11,224@2.13, 27,774@6.4, 40,314@14.04

Thanks in advance for your time and comments.
Link

Just a quick follow up... First, Thank you to those who posted and who post in general in the forum.

I ended up buying part 7309811 on ebay for about $30. It's listed as a Kenmore part. Since I don't have a convenient way to purchase "Eco water" parts this worked out well and I really don't care who stamps their name on a simple generic sensor. Immediate problem solved.

I'm still waiting for the Hatch 5-B test kit to arrive and did find my original well tests. I'll be better prepared for the next issue. Additionally between reading posts here and other research, water softeners are longer a mythical creature. I now know exactly what I'll purchase to replace the existing setup and why when a costly failure occurs. Thanks