Dryer Gas Line

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Aaroninnh

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Experts,

I have never liked this since we moved into the house. This is what the contractor gave us for our Dryer gas line. It is a piece of CSST (TracPipe I believe) around 8' long without any clamps or straps hooked into the back of our dryer. This just does not seem to be a proper use of CSST to me and I feel it should have been run as black iron down the wall (working around the DWV) to a stubout where it transitions to an appliance connector from that point.

Is this something I should have redone at some point? It just doesn't seem right to me. It kinks up, rubs against the laundry receptacle box and is generally just a PITA.

Today is clean out the dryer vent day so the dryer is out from the wall...and every time I move the dryer this makes me nervous.

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Gary Swart

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I'm not an expert on gas plumbing, but this does look like a hack job to me. I would have run 1/2" black iron pipe down the wall to the floor. Then a 2' stainless steel braided flex line to the dryer. I don't know ta
 

FullySprinklered

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It's not pretty, but I'd be more concerned with that DWV trainwreck down the wall. Is it just the perspective, or is that a spudgun arsenal?
 

Aaroninnh

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First thing after the insulated hot copper pipe use to be the washer standpipe (I assume that is what you are poking fun at). Well, it used to be anyways but it was way too high for the washer. The top of the standpipe was 82" off the ground, and the height of the standpipe from the top of the trap weir was only 10". It splashed a but when the washer dumped water but the biggest problem was that the washers kept blowing pumps due to the pumping height. This was another great thing the contractor left us with and was inspected by the town.

It was converted into a drain for the water treatment effluent (both neutralizer and iron removal) and has one of those air gap things at the top that the 2 1 inch effluent drain pipes connect onto (1" was recommended by the water treatment supplier). Right side is another air gap that takes a john guest fitting for the RO system effluent and has a barbed fitting on the top of it to take the condensate from the furnace. Too much purple primer.

The washer now dumps into a utility sink with a lifter pump. Only way I could get it to work. Feel free to throw your best barbs!

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FullySprinklered

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You'll have to admit, all of that does take some explaining. As long as YOU know what's going on and it's working , more power to you.
I make jokes, but I don't mean them to be hurtful. Thanks for being good about it.
Dated a girl from NH for a couple of hours one night back in the seventies. Karen.
 

Aaroninnh

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fullysprinklered,

You have to have teflon armor to be on forums! Your post actually gave me a chuckle.

The original install the various vendors did was to just stuff the RO effluent, water softener backflow drain pipe, and the furnace drain down into the washer standpipe. I thought that was wrong as I believe, especially for the RO & softener that involves potable water, stuffing a effluent drain where it could siphon sewage out of the trap is no bueno. So the air gap fittings are entirely my masterpiece. The next time I needed work done (neutralizer & iron removal to replace the softener) I did the work myself. They required new drain lines as the vendor recommended rigid PVC for the drain due to distance versus the flexible hose that Culligan had used. When I put those in I decided to put the air gaps in. That masterpiece is all my doing!

HJ:

Thanks for the response. I thought it was wrong, and not to mention messy and gets caught in things all the time. I am going to call the gas company and have them come out and run some black iron. Thanks for the confirmation.
 

Sylvan

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I would have run 1/2" black iron pipe down the wall to the floor.


Most decent codes specify a min gas pipe 3/4" and reduced at the appliance and the better codes do not allow for a 1/2 gas valve ideally the piping would by 3/4" with a 3/4" gas valve and the appliance connector to the valve and appliance
 

Aaroninnh

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It currently uses a 1"x3/4"x1/2" reducing tee. The 1/2" side is facing the appliance and has a 1/2" shutoff. After the dripleg it transitions to 1/2" CSST.
 

Dj2

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I'm not an expert on gas plumbing, but this does look like a hack job to me. I would have run 1/2" black iron pipe down the wall to the floor. Then a 2' stainless steel braided flex line to the dryer. I don't know ta

That's exactly what we do out here...for a dryer, 1/2" rigid black pipe, 1/2" shut off valve and a flex connector to the appliance - will pass inspection after a pressure test.
 
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