1] If you are thinking of replacing your toilet wall water valve it's best if you do it while the old bowl is removed and before you install the new bowl.
2] To remove a stuck compression ring (don't bother trying to hammer it off) use a flat file and file away the top of it WITHOUT filing into the copper pipe - just real close. It should now be much easier for it to come off.
"Sandpaper" the copper pipe so that the copper looks nice and bright.
3] Always use Plumber's Pure Silicon on all threads. This is especially important on the bowl studs that anchor the bowl down.
4] Inspect the old bowl studs and nuts. [Remove all of the old wax ring after stuffing a rag into the outlet hole. You do not want to have a stud fall down the hole.) Compare the old bowl heights (where the studs protrude through the bowl base) to the new bowl . If the studs are still in good shape after cleaning and the nuts still look good, chances are great that you can re-use them. If you can't and you bought new studs, cut the new studs to the same length as the old ones, filing as necessary so that the nut can be threaded onto the bolt. It will save you a lot of grief later.
Install the studs, tighten them down to the base plate and measure the centre of the bolt to the wall. Adjust as necessary so that they are both the same distance from the wall.
Place the bowl base on the studs and check for uneven surface(s). Use shims if necessary. (I lucked out - my floors are nice and level).
5] Remove the bowl, apply bathroom silicon to the rearward bottom of the bowl, say from the stud holes rearward; apply the wax ring. Once it's in place (sit on the toilet gingerly applying your weight to settle the wax ring) and the rear of the bowl is next to a wall it will be almost impossible to apply silicon. Yes, it can be done but it will be messy, much messier. Apply with your fingers, take a moistened rag, wrap it around your pointing finger and run it over the silicone. Follow up with a dry rag to remove excess silicone that sticks to the bowl sides and floor. Fold the rag as necessary so that you do not get silicone on the bowl, floor and wall molding as you work all around the bowl circumference.
6] Tighten down the bowl but do not make it overly tight. (Don't forget the plastic cap bases! and the metal washer over the plastic cap.) They will be marked "This Side Up" on one side. Install the bottom "slot" of the plastic base correctly into the bowl base hole (should be flush instead of riding up on one end.) You will want to install the tank so that you can pivot the front of the toilet so that the back of the tank is parallel with the wall back.
7] As you tighten the tank move it back and forth (at the top) so that you can gauge how "play" you have and how much you will need to tighten. Alternate tightening sequence so that the tank finally becomes flush on all three points while using your other hand to rock the tank front back and forth. There will come a point where there is no "play" as you move the tank side to side and back and forward. Tighten until there is no play. Just threading the bolts through the tank, installing a washer and a nut will be aggravating. Use your chest to push down the tank top as you lay a washer on top of the nut and then tighten the nut until the threads are flush with the nut bottom; repeat for the other side. Now that the nuts are threaded you can begin to tighten the buts. A socket set comes handy here.
8] Adjust the front of the toilet so that the tank back is parallel with the wall back. Start to tighten the bowl screws, alternating the tightening and lift up on the outer rims (alternately) to gauge "play". Tighten them down until there is no play on either side and no play forward and back. (Forward and back "play" will need shims to correct.)
9] Flush at least three times to check for leaks under the bowl base.
10] Silicone the bowl base.
11] Install the toilet seat. Since I bought the ADA height toilet I knew that I would want a slim toilet seat instead of the thicker wood toilet seat. I went with a plastic Kohler Brevia Q2 Advantage #4774-0 toilet seat from Home Depot. It is easily removed by flipping up the rear cap covers. Once the cap covers are re-installed it tightens the hinge fingers tightly.
Since I have hard water (rust & mineral deposits) I first applied "Invisible Shield" Surface Protectant (from Ace Hardware) to the bowl insides and under the rim (water holes). Hopefully it will prevent stains for awhile...
2] To remove a stuck compression ring (don't bother trying to hammer it off) use a flat file and file away the top of it WITHOUT filing into the copper pipe - just real close. It should now be much easier for it to come off.
"Sandpaper" the copper pipe so that the copper looks nice and bright.
3] Always use Plumber's Pure Silicon on all threads. This is especially important on the bowl studs that anchor the bowl down.
4] Inspect the old bowl studs and nuts. [Remove all of the old wax ring after stuffing a rag into the outlet hole. You do not want to have a stud fall down the hole.) Compare the old bowl heights (where the studs protrude through the bowl base) to the new bowl . If the studs are still in good shape after cleaning and the nuts still look good, chances are great that you can re-use them. If you can't and you bought new studs, cut the new studs to the same length as the old ones, filing as necessary so that the nut can be threaded onto the bolt. It will save you a lot of grief later.
Install the studs, tighten them down to the base plate and measure the centre of the bolt to the wall. Adjust as necessary so that they are both the same distance from the wall.
Place the bowl base on the studs and check for uneven surface(s). Use shims if necessary. (I lucked out - my floors are nice and level).
5] Remove the bowl, apply bathroom silicon to the rearward bottom of the bowl, say from the stud holes rearward; apply the wax ring. Once it's in place (sit on the toilet gingerly applying your weight to settle the wax ring) and the rear of the bowl is next to a wall it will be almost impossible to apply silicon. Yes, it can be done but it will be messy, much messier. Apply with your fingers, take a moistened rag, wrap it around your pointing finger and run it over the silicone. Follow up with a dry rag to remove excess silicone that sticks to the bowl sides and floor. Fold the rag as necessary so that you do not get silicone on the bowl, floor and wall molding as you work all around the bowl circumference.
6] Tighten down the bowl but do not make it overly tight. (Don't forget the plastic cap bases! and the metal washer over the plastic cap.) They will be marked "This Side Up" on one side. Install the bottom "slot" of the plastic base correctly into the bowl base hole (should be flush instead of riding up on one end.) You will want to install the tank so that you can pivot the front of the toilet so that the back of the tank is parallel with the wall back.
7] As you tighten the tank move it back and forth (at the top) so that you can gauge how "play" you have and how much you will need to tighten. Alternate tightening sequence so that the tank finally becomes flush on all three points while using your other hand to rock the tank front back and forth. There will come a point where there is no "play" as you move the tank side to side and back and forward. Tighten until there is no play. Just threading the bolts through the tank, installing a washer and a nut will be aggravating. Use your chest to push down the tank top as you lay a washer on top of the nut and then tighten the nut until the threads are flush with the nut bottom; repeat for the other side. Now that the nuts are threaded you can begin to tighten the buts. A socket set comes handy here.
8] Adjust the front of the toilet so that the tank back is parallel with the wall back. Start to tighten the bowl screws, alternating the tightening and lift up on the outer rims (alternately) to gauge "play". Tighten them down until there is no play on either side and no play forward and back. (Forward and back "play" will need shims to correct.)
9] Flush at least three times to check for leaks under the bowl base.
10] Silicone the bowl base.
11] Install the toilet seat. Since I bought the ADA height toilet I knew that I would want a slim toilet seat instead of the thicker wood toilet seat. I went with a plastic Kohler Brevia Q2 Advantage #4774-0 toilet seat from Home Depot. It is easily removed by flipping up the rear cap covers. Once the cap covers are re-installed it tightens the hinge fingers tightly.
Since I have hard water (rust & mineral deposits) I first applied "Invisible Shield" Surface Protectant (from Ace Hardware) to the bowl insides and under the rim (water holes). Hopefully it will prevent stains for awhile...