Down hole drain?

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Greenmonster123

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A bleeder would do that when combined with a closed valve topside.

Yes I thought of that but in the warmer months I would like it to work normally. My hope was that I could install a valve just below the pitless with a rod to the top of the casing so I could open and close it as needed.
 

LLigetfa

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Yes I thought of that but in the warmer months I would like it to work normally...
I was incomplete in my first post. Closing a topside valve would not let air in for the line to drain unless you also had a snifter valve topside. You could remove the pressure by opening a topside drain valve at the tank Tee and leave it open to let air in while the bleeder drains the line. Under pressure the bleeder would not open so it would work normally. The bleeder might drip a little while under pressure.
 

LLigetfa

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You could install a Tee and a street elbow with a ball valve below the pitless (assuming there is room in the casing) and connect a long rod to the handle of the valve. Just bend the handle 45 degrees so it is never fully vertical when open and then the long rod can actuate it.
 

Greenmonster123

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You could install a Tee and a street elbow with a ball valve below the pitless (assuming there is room in the casing) and connect a long rod to the handle of the valve. Just bend the handle 45 degrees so it is never fully vertical when open and then the long rod can actuate it.

This is what I was thinking but wasn’t sure if there was something designed for this purpose.
 

Greenmonster123

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I was incomplete in my first post. Closing a topside valve would not let air in for the line to drain unless you also had a snifter valve topside. You could remove the pressure by opening a topside drain valve at the tank Tee and leave it open to let air in while the bleeder drains the line. Under pressure the bleeder would not open so it would work normally. The bleeder might drip a little while under pressure.

I was thinking on installing a air/vacuum relief at the tank.
 

Reach4

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How about two pitless adapters in the casing. One for real use, and the other not connected, but used as a parking spot for when you want to drain the pipe. Make sure not to energize the pump when parked.o_O

Oh, wait... just have the one trapezoidal pitless, but lift it a bit when you want to drain the pipe.

I guess I could do that with my thruway MCKS pitless, and leave it dangling from its normal support but with the leg retracted when trying to drain the horizontal pipe.
 
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Greenmonster123

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How about two pitless adapters in the casing. One for real use, and the other not connected, but used as a parking spot for when you want to drain the pipe. Make sure not to energize the pump when parked.o_O

Oh, wait... just have the one trapezoidal pitless, but lift it a bit when you want to drain the pipe.

I guess I could do that with my thruway MCKS pitless, and leave it dangling from its normal support but with the leg retracted when trying to drain the horizontal pipe.

I want this to be able to drain after every time the tank fills. The lateral is only buried 2’ due to ledge. I am afraid it will freeze rather quickly. The cabin will see limited use in the coldest months so I figure I will only need to fill the tank once a day when I am there.
 

Valveman

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Use a brass bleeder orifice in the well. Just before the pressure tank install a control check valve with a hole on the inlet side. Install a air vent in the inlet hole of the check valve. The pipe will drain back every time the pump shuts off. When the pump comes on you will need a pressure tank large enough to supply water while waiting on the air to be pushed out of the air vent. Still probably only need about a 20 gallon size tank.
 
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