Disassembling Oatey Single Handle Washing Machine Shut Off

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Hammerlane

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Leaking Oatey Single Handle Washing Machine Valve--Disassembly
Had an Oatey single handle washing machine valve that was about 14 years old. Developed a leak at the handle. See photos.

I was able to take old valve off the taps but could not figure out how to remove valve stem from valve body to replace any bad o-rings or seals.

Anyway I ended up putting on a new valve body on the old taps and afterwards looking at old valve body more closely was able to figure out how to remove valve stem to access o-rings. It was a rubiks cube. See photos in case you have similar problem.
 

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Hammerlane

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More photos of the disassembly
 

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hj

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well, there is NO WAY I would spend the time to disassemble it and then put it back together again. Especially since there is no way to test it until AFTER it is put back in place.
 

Hammerlane

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well, there is NO WAY I would spend the time to disassemble it and then put it back together again. Especially since there is no way to test it until AFTER it is put back in place.

Curiosity...had to know. There is an easy way to test w/out placing back on taps.

Since I put new valve body on old taps, I still have the new taps leftover which have 1/2 pipe threads.

I have one (1/2 FIP x 3/4 hose thread adaptor) need to get one more. Put new taps on old valve body, install hose adaptors on end of taps and pressurize with hose.
 

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Hammerlane

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I feel like i'm watching the same show I did last week. A re-run?

LOL....Yes...I figure I'd post only the disassembly of the valve on its own thread.

Worse part of doing the replacement...which was the topic of the original post....was not knowing how the valve assembly came off the taps and then not knowing how to get at the valve stem.

Figured if someone else had same issue this thread might help them delay going after the Black Velvet Reserve
 
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hj

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You missed the point. I would ONLY take it apart and repair it if I DID NOT have a new valve there, so I would NOT have a "new body" to test the repair job. And if I did have the new valve there, then, as I said previously, I would NOT bother with taking it apart in the first place.
 

Hammerlane

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And if I did have the new valve there, then, as I said previously, I would NOT bother with taking it apart in the first place.

I understand.... to you it would of been a bother. To me it was not a bother. I wasn't on a time clock.

Figured someone else probably has one that leaks and the fix is 2 cheap o-rings as compared to the price of a new assembly.

Maybe stock-holders for Watts or Oatey would object to fixing and not replacing.

****HARD TO SOAR LIKE AN EAGLE WHEN YOU'RE FLYING WITH TURKEYS****
 
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Hammerlane

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well, there is NO WAY I would spend the time to disassemble it and then put it back together again. Especially since there is no way to test it until AFTER it is put back in place.


Finally got around to pressure testing the old valve that I replaced the o-rings on.

I had one 1/2 FIP x 3/4 hose adaptor that I attached to each end of the taps to supply water. Then hooked up an old piece of tubing I had laying around to a spigot to supply the water. I left each side pressurized for about 10 minutes.

No leaks at the stem. But I think I'll keep the new one on.
 

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Kreemoweet

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Very nice, Hammerlane! If that were my valve, I'd next be tackling that nasty rusted stem operating
shaft, or whatever it might be called. I got a bucketfull of nice threaded brass and stainless rods I've
been saving over the years ...
 

echo grunt

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Hammerlane,

I found your thread through a Google search and I ended up joining the forum just so I could say, "Thank you!"
I've just developed the exact same problem with my older (exact same model as yours) Oatey single lever washing machine shut-off. My wife informed me this morning. Your detailed, informative, and photo-rich posts have been a life saver for me. I've been a member and moderator on other forums (mostly vintage firearms related) for many years and know how much work goes into posting up a "tutorial" like this. Much appreciated.

I think I'll go the route of just disassembling and replacing the o-rings and give that a try. My lever is even more rusted than yours, so I'm planning to replace with a stainless bolt of equivalent threads.

I went through and read all of your previous posts on the subject and do have one question (in case the repair doesn't work and I have to go with a new valve), .... how did you overcome the problem of the new Oatey valve not fitting on the old taps? Last I read in that line, you had cut off the tabs on the new valve and attached it to the old taps, but it leaked and you were contemplating getting into the wall and sweating on the new taps. But, I see that you still have the new taps and they're working with the old valve so you must have figured out a way to make it work.

Many thanks again for the insight. It's stuff like this that makes the internet great.

Mike
 

Hammerlane

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Last I read in that line, you had cut off the tabs on the new valve and attached it to the old taps, but it leaked and you were contemplating getting into the wall and sweating on the new taps. But, I see that you still have the new taps and they're working with the old valve so you must have figured out a way to make it work.
Many thanks again for the insight. It's stuff like this that makes the internet great.

Mike

I could not get the new Oatey valve pictured below or in post #3 here: https://terrylove.com/forums/showth...atey-washing-Machine-Shutoff-Valve&highlight=

to seal on the taps that were exposed in the washer box after I removed the leaking valve.

I tried several times to get a seal and could not.

Before going into the wall to cut out the old taps, I was able to find an exact valve as my old one on Craigslist from a retired plumber in Pennsylvania. He shipped it to me and I installed that on the existing taps.

Other than finding this exact probably 14 year old valve or repairing the old valve stem, you will have to probably cut out the old taps and solder/install the new taps that come with the new vavle.

If you buy a new valve assembly, you can try to get a seal on the existing taps before cutting them out. Who knows maybe you can but I could not. Just be at the new valve when you turn water back on in case it leaks. I took my time coming up from the basement when I turned water back on because I assumed the new valve body was made to fit on the existing taps. I WAS WRONG. Overconfidence is a bad assumption in that situation.

I dont think in any other of my photos I showed the white "locknut" that goes on the taps on the underside of the washer box. But I posted below.

Any other questions ask away.
 

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echo grunt

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Hey, Thanks for the quick reply!

My leak is a pretty slow one. Whenever we go away for more than a day or two, my wife always throws the lever off. This time, when we came home and she turned it back on she noticed that the bottom of the box quickly accumulated a small puddle of water, ... maybe a teaspoon or so. We dried everything off and worked the lever back and forth a few times and after a short time, the leak had actually stopped by itself. I'm really hoping that I can just take the thing apart, clean up all the brass parts with some vinegar or cls, replace all the o-rings, lubricate with a touch of silicone grease and re-assemble.

Do you remember what size o-rings it took? If not, they carry a pretty good selection at the local Ace. I can take the old ones in to compare.

Thanks again, Mike
 
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