Delta 600 series shower only valve replacement/repair

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redcatman74

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This problem was last discussed in a thread in 2010. I am posting this issue in case HJ is no longer a participant on this forum and my not receive my private message to him (HJ said he has done this before).

In trying to remove the dome on my 24 year old Delta 600 series shower only valve, I didn't take care to not twist the entire body and have bent the tubes to the valve control (it has turned approximately 75 degrees). The hot water side started leaking. I have subsequently isolated the shower from the hot/cold water supply.


My objective is to repair the valve in place, since there is no access without tearing through the wall in the bedroom (access from the shower side is impractical given the shower is paneled with a cultured marble panel). I have access to the hot/cold water supply lines that run up the wall from the unfinished basement

I have tamped the dome rim with opposing hammers to try to loosen it, but so far with no success. At this point, I have not been able to get the dome off. Do you have any suggestions on how to get the dome off without further damaging the valve assembly?

Once I get the dome off, any suggestions on how to remove and replace the copper tubes in the valve base and connecting control body?

If I can find a replacement 600 series valve assembly, what suggestions do you have to replace the valve in place without tearing the wall out?

Thanks.
 
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NH-DIY

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I had the same problem. Penetrating oil and cycling twice through hot and cold with a heat gun and two sets of oversized channel locks and it came apart.
1) Went to HD for 2 foot length of 3/8" OD and cut three 1.75" pieces
2) deburred, scratched, fluxed, tinned then sanded to 3/8" again and made sure they are round
3) used 3/8 inch drill bit held in hand to clean out the three holes in both the valve body and the mixer piece- then fluxed

*** secret trick... I had some old 50/50 solder for lower overall temperature to get this done and lower chances of burning house down.

4) heated the center of valve body with propane torch then stuck in the three tubes with pliers
5) reheated and applied extra solder
6) then spent 10 minutes carefully aligning the three tubes by sighting through the mixing piece...the mixing piece offcenter makes a good slight bending tool...
7) used 2x4x3" block and tapped mixing part into place and onto the tubes
8) heated the center of the mixing part and applied solder to the outside of the tubes with bent solder wire.
9) reheated center of mixing part and applied tiny amount of solder to the inside of tubes
10) let cool for 20 minutes, inspect, cross fingers, turn on water to clean out valve, then turn water back off
11) install new cartridge to mixing part w/springs/washers body well greased
12) apply plumbers grease to ring that holds the cartridge in place
13) turn water on and then celebrate when it doesn't leak
 

hj

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The only "fly in the ointment" is that some Delta valves have an "S" shaped tube between the center, lower openings, That is very hard to replicate. I solder the tubes into the "front piece" and then guide them into the valve body.
 

TonySaprano

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Hello.. Just joined to ask a question.

I have a 600 series and when I tried to remove the ring. I bent it about appox 10degrees counterclockwise :( 11:00 o'clock position
It's not bad but it's enough to drive me crazy ..OCD :) I still have a small drip leak from around the ring...very very slow leak.
I did get the collar off. (I purchased a kit with seals and a new ball)

I afraid to try and turn the body back with the possibility of cracking those copper tubes. I noticed in NH-DIY fix it steps that it doesn't
say how he first separated the mixer from the valve body ? I understand the steps 4 - 13

Hoping HJ or NH-DIY can ans me. Thank you
 

TonySaprano

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Thank you HJ ! I really appreciate it.
I took a chance and use the old cap to turn it back slowly (crossing my fingers) and I got it back to the 12oclock
I install a new cap and used a little silicone faucet grease danco. I turned the water back on and no leaks.
I dodged that bullet. Thank you again for replying Lesson Learned !
 

Tony949

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This problem was last discussed in a thread in 2010. I am posting this issue in case HJ is no longer a participant on this forum and my not receive my private message to him (HJ said he has done this before).

In trying to remove the dome on my 24 year old Delta 600 series shower only valve, I didn't take care to not twist the entire body and have bent the tubes to the valve control (it has turned approximately 75 degrees). The hot water side started leaking. I have subsequently isolated the shower from the hot/cold water supply.



My objective is to repair the valve in place, since there is no access without tearing through the wall in the bedroom (access from the shower side is impractical given the shower is paneled with a cultured marble panel). I have access to the hot/cold water supply lines that run up the wall from the unfinished basement

I have tamped the dome rim with opposing hammers to try to loosen it, but so far with no success. At this point, I have not been able to get the dome off. Do you have any suggestions on how to get the dome off without further damaging the valve assembly?

Once I get the dome off, any suggestions on how to remove and replace the copper tubes in the valve base and connecting control body?

If I can find a replacement 600 series valve assembly, what suggestions do you have to replace the valve in place without tearing the wall out?

Thanks.
 
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Tony949

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I have a Delta 600 series I slipped in the bathtub and bent the handle down a little bit and now it's leaking water from the handle only when I turn on the water I tried to take off the handle and faceplate the handle will not come off even with the set screw out
 

Terry

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I have a Delta 600 series I slipped in the bathtub and bent the handle down a little bit and now it's leaking water from the handle only when I turn on the water I tried to take off the handle and faceplate the handle will not come off even with the set screw out

I would hold behind it with pliers, and then pull the knob off.
You may want to have the water off first. It would be a good time for new parts while you have things open.
 
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