Delicate flange height adjustment

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Jono2

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Goal: I'm trying to move a toilet flange 1/2-3/4" upward.

It's pictured just sitting in the hub until I figure out what to do. If I put it at the target final height it just barely touches the inside of the hub (not tight or securely/deeply). The height of the level (silver part) shows the top of the incoming subfloor. For stability etc I'd like the flange to actually rest on the subfloor, as opposed to just stacking up wax rings.

Is there some sort of hub extension that is available somewhere to do this? (to elevate the flange a bit)

Thanks!

imgonline-com-ua-resize-HFTAIcsYD6vVx.jpg
imgonline-com-ua-resize-p7rVkaSGvCWT0P.jpg
 

John Gayewski

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Looks like you should've turned that street 90 around so the coupling could be on top. But yeah Wayne's product looks fine.
 

Jono2

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Thank you both. The flange goes into a 3" hub.

Descriptions for the products seem conflicting - this example long flange says fits in 3" PCV pipe, but then also says a "hub fit". Those are two different diameters....
 

John Gayewski

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Well the one you need is the one Wayne linked I believe. I'm not a fan of going inside 3"pipe as the code outlines a minim 3" waste outlet for toilets.
 

Mr tee

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You want the closet ring to sit/fasten on the finished floor, not the subfloor.
 
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Jono2

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Thank you all. Agree, want something that inserts to a 3" hub, not 3" pipe.

The IPS model looks great, but I'm not seeing a single long 3" hub-inserting model available anywhere online for DIY. Will call around to plumbing supply places once they're open.
 

wwhitney

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What the exact height different between the top of your hub and the top of the finish floor?

Is replacing the closet bend a possibility? I.e. what's happening in the next downstream joist bay?

Cheers, Wayne
 

wwhitney

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John Gayewski

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I think starting over with a 3x4 90 and running the 4"pipe to past your elevation is the best. Then after the floor is completely done you come back and glue a flange into the 4“pipe, is the best and easiest way.
 
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