Cycle stop valve questions

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WildWildMidwest

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Thanks for the tips. I cannot easily plumb soft hose into our main water pipe because it's buried several feet underground. Perhaps a flexible pressure hose plumbed into the 3/4 inch pipe 3 feet above the CSV may help. I may be chasing after phantoms, though. We'll undoubtedly survive the noise, which is less noticeable since the pump isn't running 8-9 minutes after drawing a glass of water when the tank is empty. Oddly, the basement noise is almost inaudible. It's much louder on the first and second floors -- so I expect pipe turbulence is resonating our wooden home like a bass viol. Perhaps some rubber gaskets instead of metal pipe hangers will also help, but I don't know any way to reduce harmonic contact inside first and second story wall joists.

I reinstalled our pressure switch the same way it was originally installed by our well contractor last summer. I haven't noticed any switch bouncing, but will remain vigilant.

Curiously I noticed today that our pressure valve seems to operate differently when only hot water is being drawn. When the dishwasher is running, the pressure keeps cycling between 40-50 PSI and the CSV never activates at 57. The system has probably always done this and I just never noticed. I can't easily explain the behavior. I wonder if it has something to do with 1/2 inch pipe running to the dishwasher, versus 3/4 inch pipe in the rest of our home. I made minor adjustments to the pressure switch and will observe what happens.
 

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Cary Austin
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With the pump you have setting at 60', and 57 PSI, you should be getting about 8 GPM. The pressure will decrease as you use more than 8 GPM. When the pressure drops below 57 PSI, the CSV just turns into a piece of pipe, and the amount of flow and pressure is dependent on the pump itself. At 40 PSI, it should be putting out more than 10 GPM. Cycling between 40 and 50 PSI does not make any sense. The only thing I can think of is that maybe there is too much air in the tank. I would check the air pressure in the tank and set it below 40 PSI.
 

WildWildMidwest

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Valveman, I love our cycle stop valve!

I added 1000 gallons to our in-ground pool today. Our CSV made that happen in a single continuous (and now totally silent) pump cycle. Our water pressure is perfect for showers and everything else. With a little more adjustment I succeeded in getting our pressure switch to operate at 45-60 PSI. We now have a fully optimized domestic water system.

Thank you so much for your guidance! Your tip about plumbing a flexible hose into our water line was genius. I bought a 7/8" I.D. washing machine hose and plumbed about 3 feet of it above the CSV after cutting out an L-shaped 4 foot section of copper pipe. The hose arches through a gradual 90 degree turn which dissipates vibrations throughout the radius of the arch. Now our well pump is completely silent upstairs. I can hear it in the basement only if I listen very closely. Thank you, thank you, thank you! No more waking everybody up when the pump runs.

I'm a 100% satisfied CSV owner! I've been spreading the word to everyone I know and will continue to do so. Thanks also to everyone here who showed the path to plumbing nirvana.
 

WildWildMidwest

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P.S., I haven't witnessed the pump cycling between 40-50 PSI again. Maybe that was due to a sticky spring in our pressure switch that needed time to accommodate to new settings. Who cares? -- now it's working perfectly.
 

Eddie_T

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I am considering a CSV but have a hydrant and a couple of hose bibs that are tee'd off the supply line close to the well and about 50ft from the house. What will this do to the system if I install a pside-kick system at the house. The pump is a T8-50 Aermoter submersible, 1/2 HP I think.
 

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Cary Austin
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The CSV needs to be before the first hydrant. But the switch and tank can still be in the house. One of the CSV125 valves can go in the well or before the first tee.
 

Eddie_T

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Thanks for the response. I am not having a problem with my system at present but my son has a pressure tank leaking in his basement and is making some of the same decisions at present. I was thinking ahead to the next problem and were both wondering about the CSV approach. I don't need constant pressuure on the hydrant and hose bibs. At present they draw from the tank until the pump cycles then a momentary stop at flow reversal. I didn't know if a CSV would allow enough backflow to make this work or what might happen is someone opened a tap inside the house at the same time. Probably best to place a CSV at the well though the pside-kick approach looked interesting. Though the system is not broken constant pressure for a shower would be great (especially with these new-fangled low flow shower heads).
 

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If you use the hydrants or hose bibbs for irrigation or for long lengths of time, they probably need the CSV to keep the pump from cycling more than the house does.

But if you only use the hydrant to fill a dog bowl or some small use, the CSV1A will let water go backwards as you describe.
 
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