Cutting old galvanized to couple to new brass or PVC P trap. Nervous.

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Modulerics

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Hello. I removed an old 32" tub. The wall behind it were right against masonry so I insulated that and settled on putting back in a 30" tub. I was hoping I could get away w a Kohler ClearFlo Brass tub drain and just use the flexible neck to get what I needed. Sadly everything has had to shift so much it doesn't look like it will cover the distance. If there's a solution to this I'm all ears but I'm thinking I've got to cut the cast iron pipe the brass trap is connected to. It's a really scaled up pipe so I'm a bit nervous, that's why I was hoping to get away without cutting it. I've attached pics. Should this be as simple as cut out the length I need to lose and use a shielded Fernco for cast iron to brass. Put a new brass p trap in and go from there? I dread possibly messing up that cast iron pipe and being totally boned. I'm assuming I'll have to use silicone between the Fernco and cast iron cause it's so uneven all over.

And yes that's a baseboard heating line that you see in the one picture that literally runs between the drain and the tub itself.

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Modulerics

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Thanks Terry. No fear on all thay scale on the outside and getting a good seal w a fernco?

What about using a double offset on the overflow line instead?
 

Jeff H Young

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if you don't want to cut trap off can you at least connect a hose to that and make sure its clear and drains?

double offset? like a couple 45s for the overflow ? you might consider the Watco flex tub drain kit. I'd like to chase that back to sound piping but at least test it real good before burying
 

Modulerics

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Jeff, it drains. The tub here previously did. I will test again before buttoning up and snake it in case. Everything is under a slab under a wall next to recently redone kitchen. So going all the way back to replace isn't an option.

If I go with the watch wuats the best way to go from the brass trap to it?
 

Modulerics

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if you dont want to cut trap off can you at least connect a hose to that and make sure its clear and drains?

double offset? like a couple 45s for the overflow ? you might concider the watco flex tub drain kit. Id like to chase that back to sound piping but at least test it real good befor burying
Sorry meant to reply to your post. The line drains. I'll snake it as well. If it's not draining well idk what I'll do.

Best way to go from a brass p trap to the watco?
 

John Gayewski

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Yeah you'll need to clean that pipe. Patience and a file/scraper/sandpaper /anything you can use to clean that pipe up. Once you clean it I think you'll just want to use pvc including the trap. If you use the watco kits (which we have been using a lot of) then you'll be set.
 

Jeff H Young

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I'd cut it in in minute IF I was confident in the condition. but even if you use what's there including the trap I'd test it with water .
Cast iron is better by a long shot . you can't use Gal underground for drainage since I've been in plumbing.

Adapting the sch 40 PV to the slip joint connection could be done with a band.
Never used the Watco flex, but looked like a good candidate Good to hear John likes them. Watcoflex has a video and we have been fighting offsetting overflows forever its not always difficult doing them old school but not always easy either.
Tub overflows often don't match the the tub itself very well some brands use an angled gasket others thick and spongy the Watco flex will allow the piece to mate together well I believe.
 
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Modulerics

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Yeah you'll need to clean that pipe. Patience and a file/scraper/sandpaper /anything you can use to clean that pipe up. Once you clean it I think you'll just want to use PVC including the trap. If you use the Watco kits (which we have been using a lot of) then you'll be set.
Thank you. I'll get it cut and do my best to clean the OD. I hope the ID doesn't look too terrible but it'll be informative. I wish the previous owner had just got all this addressed before putting a new kitchen on top of all of it. If it looks real bad on the ID I may see about having someone come see if they can determine how far back it goes or hydrojet it to get a few more years put of it.

From there I'll Fernco to PVC trap and the Watco to get around the radiant heater line.

Is using silicone over the galvanized where I Fernco to make up for any gaps an ok idea?
 

Modulerics

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Id cut it in in minute IF I was confident in the condition. but even if you use what's there including the trap Id test it with water .
cast iron is better by a long shot . you cant use Gal underground for drainage since I've been in plumbing.

adapting the sch 40 pvc to the slip joint connection could be done with a band.
Never used the watco flex, but looked like a good candidate Good to hear John likes them. Watcoflex has a video and we have been fighting offsetting overflows forever its not always difficult doing them old school but not always easy either.
Tub overflows often don't match the the tub itself very well some brands use an angled gasket others thick and spongy the watco flex will allow the piece to mate together well I believe.
Yeah this house was built in 1965 so I don't know why there's even Gal there considering. Maybe someone getting rid of what was left at the shop. There's other cast iron under the slab. I can't even envision how it ties into the toilet drain to the right of it.

I think I'm going to cut it. Any old plumber tricks on cleaning out the ID of the pipe? I've read not to snake it.
 

John Gayewski

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Thank you. I'll get it cut and do my best to clean the OD. I hope the ID doesn't look too terrible but it'll be informative. I wish the previous owner had just got all this addressed before putting a new kitchen on top of all of it. If it looks real bad on the ID I may see about having someone come see if they can determine how far back it goes or hydrojet it to get a few more years put of it.

From there I'll Fernco to PVC trap and the Watco to get around the radiant heater line.

Is using silicone over the galvanized where I Fernco to make up for any gaps an ok idea?
There is a product called black swan. I've used it.
 

Modulerics

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if you don't want to cut trap off can you at least connect a hose to that and make sure its clear and drains?

double offset? like a couple 45s for the overflow ? you might consider the Watco flex tub drain kit. I'd like to chase that back to sound piping but at least test it real good before burying
Jeff. I dug back under the slab a little and not too many inches in is a hub. You think the moved should be to unscrew the galvanized and replace with PVC from there?

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Modulerics

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That should be a 2" hub. You could use a 2" with a 2" donut, or reduce down to 1.5" since it's a tub.
Thanks Terry. And does that mean it's not a threaded connection? I'd hate to break up more slab but I can if need be. I had good luck using the 4 inch hub for my toilet in this same room at your suggestion.

I was hoping with this I'd hit it with penetrant and the get a big wrench, maybe even chain wrench on it and back it out. Then I'd glue a 1.5 inch MPT thread onto a length of PVC. Use pipe dope and Teflon tape and get it in there without removing more slab.
 

Terry

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You may be right. It could be a threaded connection. Plumbing is fun.

I started in new construction. Thought I knew a bunch. Then service work and dealing with old stuff I had never seen before. Always something new.
 
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