Cutting large copper pipe in tight space

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diverdave

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Hello,
I am remodeling a bathroom and I need to cut out an old 4" copper pipe in the crawlspace that is run very tightly between two joists. I can't get my reciprocating saw on it and I don't think I can get a regular hacksaw on it either. Any advice on how to cut this pipe?

Also, when attaching a flex coupling to join copper and PVC with the OD of copper being much smaller than the PVC do you use the same size flex coupling? For example, if I am attaching 1 1/2" copper to 1 1/2" PVC do I use a 1 1/2" to 1 1/2" flex coupling?

Thanks, Dave

pipe copy.jpg
 

Reach4

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I am remodeling a bathroom and I need to cut out an old 4" copper pipe in the crawlspace that is run very tightly between two joists. I can't get my reciprocating saw on it and I don't think I can get a regular hacksaw on it either. Any advice on how to cut this pipe?
Editing out my thoughts on cutting a 1-1/2 inch copper pipe. I misread that part. The cable saw would still do it cheaply if you were patient enough.
A cable saw is more tedious but cheap. I suspect that would be the best deal. Cutoff wheel from inside above sounds interesting. Maybe a multi-tool oscillating tool inside with the right blade could do it, but if the Dremel you have does it, great. I wonder if you could suspend the tool from above to keep uniform height for the cutting wheel.

Take pictures and post success.


Also, when attaching a flex coupling to join copper and PVC with the OD of copper being much smaller than the PVC do you use the same size flex coupling? For example, if I am attaching 1 1/2" copper to 1 1/2" PVC do I use a 1 1/2" to 1 1/2" flex coupling?
You use a different coupling made for the purpose. Fernco 3001-150 or Mission CK-115 or PlumbQuik P3001-150

index.php



https://www.homedepot.com/p/Fernco-Proflex-1-1-2-in-Neoprene-Shielded-Coupling-P3001-150/100372289
 
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wwhitney

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Hello,
I am remodeling a bathroom and I need to cut out an old 4" copper pipe in the crawlspace that is run very tightly between two joists. I can't get my reciprocating saw on it and I don't think I can get a regular hacksaw on it either. Any advice on how to cut this pipe?
If that's a 4" copper pipe, then it looks like you have 9" or so between joists. I'm a little surprised your reciprocating saw won't fit, but maybe it's just a little too tall.

So you could get a different reciprocating saw that is more compact; you could try with an oscillating saw; or you could get a mini or close quarter hacksaw:

https://www.lenoxtools.com/pages/close-quarter-hand-saw.aspx

Cheers, Wayne
 

diverdave

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Thanks for the replies, the reciprocating saw won't fit between the joists b/c the joists are boxed and the saw it too long so the smaller reciprocating saw would probably work but I was looking for a more economical approach. How about going at it with a dremel tool and a metal cutting blade from the top side. I can easily get the dremel inside and go around from the inside of the pipe. Anyone ever try that?
 

wwhitney

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Thanks for the replies, the reciprocating saw won't fit between the joists b/c the joists are boxed
Not quite following, in the picture in the OP I can believe there is a block right behind the camera so that the reciprocating saw is too long to point that way in the joist bay. But I do not see any blocking in the joist bay behind the pipe, so why won't the reciprocating saw fit with the body behind the pipe?

Which part of the copper DWV do you need to remain? If there's a WC above there, you could just pull the WC and replace all the copper.

Cheers, Wayne
 

diverdave

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I ended up using my dremel tool with a metal blade and cut it from the inside and it worked well. I was stretching the limits of the dremel I think, it got really hot but I let it cool a couple of times and it got the job done. Thanks for the suggestions!
 
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