Cracked copper HVAC condensate pipe

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Nwoodard34

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Hey guys, noticed a black/soft spot in my basement ceiling last night and poked at it with my finger and it went right through. Turns out the condensate pipe for the HVAC is cracked and had been leaking on it (for how long is anyone's guess since that room doesn't get much foot traffic!)

Anyways, hoping the community is willing to offer your expertise and guidance on best approach to fix it. I am not very good at soldering so would prefer a bit of a simpler solution, even if it costs a bit more in fancier parts.

Thanks all for your continued support of this excellent community
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Reach4

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Turns out the condensate pipe for the HVAC is cracked and had been leaking on it
Does that condensate include combustion condensate for a high efficiency furnace? That would be acidic, and that is often run thru a neutralizer.

If the condensate is just for AC, it is not as acidic.

Where does the pipe continue onto? Plastic stands up to acid, and replacing with plastic is what I would be considering. I am not a pro.
 

Bannerman

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Without a photo showing the surrounding area, we can't determine if the pipe is sufficiently supported. It is unusual for copper pipe to crack, but if the unsupported length is excessive and if there is vibration, that maybe a contributing factor.

You said the pipe is located above the basement ceiling. As a furnace is typically located in the basement and because a central air conditioner evaporator will be normally located within the furnace plenum, then for condensate to drain through a pipe above the ceiling, would require a condensate pump to be utilized. Condensate pumps typically utilize plastic piping for discharge, not ridged copper pipe. You may want to verify that cracked line is infact utilized for condensate discharge.

To perform a DIY repair without needing to solder, a short section of pipe could be cut out to make room for a SharkBite coupling as shown here:. https://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBi...nect-Brass-Coupling-Fitting-U008LFA/202270492

A pipe cutter would be the preferred tool to cutout the cracked section, and a small round metal file used to remove the burr from each cut section of pipe. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-5-8-in-Junior-Tube-Cutter-80-511-111/304384093

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Nicholson-6-in-x-1-4-in-Bastard-Cut-Round-File-21846NN/206710021

Suggest installing some wood and piping clamps to ensure sufficient support if the unsupported length of pipe exceeds 24", particularly within where the Shartbite coupling is located.
 
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Nwoodard34

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Does that condensate include combustion condensate for a high efficiency furnace? That would be acidic, and that is often run thru a neutralizer.

If the condensate is just for AC, it is not as acidic.

Where does the pipe continue onto? Plastic stands up to acid, and replacing with plastic is what I would be considering. I am not a pro.

It is a furnance but I don't think a high efficiency one. There is nothing like a neutralizer external to the unit other than the pump.

It runs across that room and over the laundry room before popping out of the wall to discharge into the slop sink.

Upon further inspection after making the repair, I realized that there are actually other small pinhole leaks in addition to the crack, so replacing it all is the way to go. I am probably just going to drill into the brick and route it outside the house instead of trying to fish PVC/plastic tubing through the ceiling (the ceiling is hung on furring strips and not directly to the joists so it might not be as tricky as I am thinking).

What type of plastic should I use if I don't use PVC?
 

Nwoodard34

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Without a photo showing the surrounding area, we can't determine if the pipe is sufficiently supported. It is unusual for copper pipe to crack, but if the unsupported length is excessive and if there is vibration, that maybe a contributing factor.

You said the pipe is located above the basement ceiling. As a furnace is typically located in the basement and because a central air conditioner evaporator will be normally located within the furnace plenum, then for condensate to drain through a pipe above the ceiling, would require a condensate pump to be utilized. Condensate pumps typically utilize plastic piping for discharge, not ridged copper pipe. You may want to verify that cracked line is infact utilized for condensate discharge.

To perform a DIY repair without needing to solder, a short section of pipe could be cut out to make room for a SharkBite coupling as shown here:. https://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBi...nect-Brass-Coupling-Fitting-U008LFA/202270492

A pipe cutter would be the preferred tool to cutout the cracked section, and a small round metal file used to remove the burr from each cut section of pipe. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-5-8-in-Junior-Tube-Cutter-80-511-111/304384093

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Nicholson-6-in-x-1-4-in-Bastard-Cut-Round-File-21846NN/206710021

Suggest installing some wood and piping clamps to ensure sufficient support if the unsupported length of pipe exceeds 24", particularly within where the Shartbite coupling is located.

I am sure it is for the condensate line. It is not very well supported and seems to just rest on the ceiling (they used furring strips to hang the ceiling instead of routing some of the plumbing components, including this one, through the joists. Yes there is a pump and yes it has copper coming through it. You used the term rigid, but it is somewhat flexible and not like a copper supply pipe that is rigid. Im not sure if that makes a difference.

At any rate, after making the repair with the coupling I noticed there are other small leaks in the tubing so I am going to replace it. Either route it directly from the HVAC room through the wall outside the house (easiest except it is brick) or maybe if I can get a flexible tubing just fish it through the existing run by pulling the copper through. That might be a bit tricky since I don't know what other restraints might be on there.

What would you guys do in this situation? Use PVC and just straight pipe it out the house?
 

Reach4

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What type of plastic should I use if I don't use PVC?
CPVC ( a form of pvc), pex, polyethelene, vinyl -- I don't know any non-biodegradable plastic tubing that would be a problem. If you use PEX with fittings, get plastic fittings. Note that the line will probably get scuzzy inside, so non-clear will look better. For non-rigid pipe, make sure it does not kink.
 

Jadnashua

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Running it outside is probably not a good idea! Even in VA, it can freeze in the winter, and having that line freeze up would be a major pain.

In some places, (and a good idea everywhere) you're required to install a neutralizing filter for combustion condensate lines. The output is often in the pH range of around 4, so about the same strength acid as common vinegar. Over time, that can literally eat through most metals.

A neutralizing filter isn't expensive, but you do need to maintain it...often, that's adding some crushed limestone rock to it, maybe yearly, depending on how often it's used, and the size of the filter.

If it's just for the a/c, then it's generally not acidic, and since it's not going to be draining during the winter, yes, running it outside is an option.
 

Bannerman

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If the furnace exhausts out through the top through a metal pipe to a chimney, it will not be a high efficiency condensing model. If so, the condensate is most !ikely created by the air conditioner evaporator coil which is normally located in the hot air plenum directly above the furnace.

Air conditioning condensate is caused by the moisture from the air in the house condensing on the evaporator's cold coil surface, thereby dehumidifying the air in the home during warm, humid weather. That condensate will not be acidic and will only be created while the air conditioner is operating during the cooling season.

A high efficiency condensing furnace will utilize 2" or 3" plastic pipe which is most commonly exhausted through an exterior wall, but maybe exhausted above the roof. That type of furnace will utilize plastic piping from the furnace combustion chamber, feeding into the condensate pump,. When the furnace is equipped with a central A/C evaporator, then two plastic pipes will typically enter the condensate pump, with one pipe exiting to discharge the water to a remote drain such as your slop sink.

Condensate from a condensing furnace will be produced whenever the furnace is operating so an exterior discharge would be !ikely to freeze, thereby preventing full elimination of the condensate, which will likely cause damage within the home due to overflow from the condensate pump.
 
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Jeff H Young

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ordinary non corrosive condensate I'd use sch 40 PVC 3/4 line . if its from combustion then I'd go CPVC
 
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