Correct anode for A. O. Smith tank

[Strong son]

Hello.

Recently I have been thinking about my water heater. Well more about the likely-hood of failure and of any needed maintenance it might need. I had always heard about flushing regularly but since my dad never did it I have never done it. I also learned about the sacrificial anode. This was quite a surprise to learn about and thought it is quite an ingenious invention.

So I plan to go about doing this myself (draining and replacing the anode). From what I can tell it can be a do-it-yourself project up to the point where things do not go as expected.

So my ultimate question is what is the correct length of the anode for my water tank. The original was aluminum and I have read other metals should be fine to use instead. But I am still unsure of the length.

Tank is a FSG50-242 with model # of MC99-0075808-H4 (age is at least 10 years old)

I contacted A. O. Smith and they said the new part # is 9003892005 (aluminum). I looked this up at their website ( http://www.waterheaterparts.com/ItemDetails?ItemID=9003892005 ) and it shows it to be a 33'' inch anode. I then came across this pdf ( http://www.hotwater.com/lit/partslists/psd1297.pdf ) that showed the original part # was 183523-29. When I cross ref this at http://www.waterheaterparts.com/Cross it says the new part # is 9000029005 which is 29'' inches in length.

So how does one know what is the real length (part #) needed? In addition I may not have enough clearance to install a new one. Where can I find a sausage (collapsible) one in case it is needed. All the collapsible ones I found were 44'' inches or longer.

Thanks for any information.
Brian

 

[Smooky]

Here is a site that should be helpful. They sell anodes and other stuff for hot water heaters. There is a lot of good info too:
http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pages/WHRpages/English/Longevity/the-right-hot-water-heater.html

The factory installed anode can be very difficult to remove, so before you order one you may want to see if you can get it to un-screw. When the anode rod starts to corrode it expands in size from the buildup of corrosion. Sometimes they may start to split apart and get hung up when you try to pull it out. If it has been there a long time it may be mostly gone and if you can unscrew it, it may come out easily. If the hot water heater is under the house and you do not have much room to work and not much access at the top, it can be almost impossible to get them out.

http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pages/WHRpages/English/Longevity/water-heater-anodes.html

https://www.waterconnection.com/store/products/rod-removertorque-multiplyer-with-socket/

It can take a lot of force to unscrew the anode and before it breaks loose the heater starts to turn. Sometimes it can be a lot of fun. For me the juice ain't worth the squeeze.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Strong son]

Here is a site that should be helpful. They sell anodes and other stuff for hot water heaters. There is a lot of good info too:
http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pages/WHRpages/English/Longevity/the-right-hot-water-heater.html

The factory installed anode can be very difficult to remove, so before you order one you may want to see if you can get it to un-screw. When the anode rod starts to corrode it expands in size from the buildup of corrosion. Sometimes they may start to split apart and get hung up when you try to pull it out. If it has been there a long time it may be mostly gone and if you can unscrew it, it may come out easily. If the hot water heater is under the house and you do not have much room to work and not much access at the top, it can be almost impossible to get them out.

http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pages/WHRpages/English/Longevity/water-heater-anodes.html

https://www.waterconnection.com/store/products/rod-removertorque-multiplyer-with-socket/

Hi Smooky:
I contacted A. O. Smith again and they say the 33 in is the correct size anode.
Do I need to bleed any water out of the tank before I do a dry run and see if it unscrews?

Thanks
Brian

 

[Smooky]

Depends on location of the heater, if you can isolate it or not and how fast you work.
Shut it off and close the valves to isolate it if possible. If every thing is closed not much water will come out. If there are no shut off valves and you open it up then some one opens a faucet up top, it could get kind of wet up under the house. If there is a lot of electrical stuff around the heater, draining everything down might be a good idea. You are there not me, be safe.

 

[Strong son]

Well some luck. Took 2 hours just to find a 1 1/16 hex socket. Finally found one at an auto parts store.
Drained about 3 gallons out. First half gallon was light orange and the rest was completely clear.
Tried to loosen anode (used a small 1 foot extension pipe;probably not long enough but that is all i have) and no luck.
I am afraid if I pull too hard either I am going to get clocked in the face or I am going to loosen fittings in one or more of the pipes.

So I guess since I cannot loosen the anode, the water heating is working, and the water seemed clear
it may be worth just leaving it alone until it does break.

Brian

 

[Master Plumber Mark]

It is almost impossible to change out an anode rod because they become locked into the socket
you will need a cheater bar and someone to hold the water heater to keep it from turning
and there is still no guarantee that you will win...

it is best to leave it alone

also I have found that a 30 2/8 anode works best over the one that you
bought... and sometimes when I am feeling naughty.
I will install a 31 1/4 rod in one just for fun///

 

[Reach4]

I was able to pull my old anode rod out with an impact wrench and a 1-1/16 impact socket.

I put in a powered anode, but I could have used a conventional anode. In putting the new anode in place, you need much less torque than you need to remove the original