Copper Service Line Replacement?

[elgato]

The PVC fitting where my service line transitions from PVC to copper cracked at the threads. There is approx. 12 Ft of 1" copper from the transition to the house. It is about 3 Ft deep.

While it is exposed I would like to replace the copper and old gate valve at the house with new and a ball valve. All digging is complete and there is a 2" sleeve under the sidewalk.

I have had three smaller contractors look at it and disappear. The one I finally did talk to said that copper is just too expensive and he would not do it. My understanding is that you have to purchase a 65' roll to get the 12'. The rep from the large company quoted $650.00 and said that he had to downsize it to 3/4 because he could not bend 1"

I am not sure what I am missing here. Ballpark to replace 12' of copper and a valve?
Can a professional do some bending of 1" rolled?

Recommendations?

Thank You

 

[Jimbo]

Someplace like Marshall's Hardware sells copper by the foot, but for 12' you would pay about the price of a 60' roll. 1" is pretty tough to work. Usually it is rolled into a ditch, and broad bends bring it to the surface.

Why do you want to replace the copper?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[hj]

The male adapter which connected to the copper SHOULD have broken because that is what they do. I sometimes repair two or three in a single week. There is NOTHING wrong with the copper tubing. You need a 1"x6" brass nipple into the female solder adapter, and a 1" Dresser coupling to connect it to the PVC. It will then last "forever". The valve replacement is a different matter and has NOTHING to do with the leak at the PVC. As far as replacing the copper is concerned, if the company does any copper work at all it should have a "cutoff" piece long enough, and ANY plumber can bend 1" soft copper. It sounds like you have a bunch of "hacks", or handymen, NOT "smaller contractors", looking at your job. I am a "smaller contractor, (by choice), and do it all the time.

 

[elgato]

The male adapter which connected to the copper SHOULD have broken because that is what they do. I sometimes repair two or three in a single week. There is NOTHING wrong with the copper tubing. You need a 1"x6" brass nipple into the female solder adapter, and a 1" Dresser coupling to connect it to the PVC. It will then last "forever". The valve replacement is a different matter and has NOTHING to do with the leak at the PVC. As far as replacing the copper is concerned, if the company does any copper work at all it should have a "cutoff" piece long enough, and ANY plumber can bend 1" soft copper. It sounds like you have a bunch of "hacks", or handymen, NOT "smaller contractors", looking at your job. I am a "smaller contractor, (by choice), and do it all the time.

The copper is almost 35 years old and would be disconnected at both ends if we replace the valve so I just thougt it would be a good idea to replace it while it is uncovered.

Even a schedule 80 male into a copper female is not a good idea?

The current temp fix is a 6" nipple with a PVC compression coupler. Everyone says this is not permanent and should not be buried.

I looked at the Dresser products and they have model 65, 165 and 88(brass)
Which do you recommend for a permanent solution?
If it were yours would you just leave the copper in place even though its so old and deep?

Thanks again for the help.
Tom

 

[hj]

I would leave it in place because it is deep,but it is not "old" for a copper pipe. A sch. 80 nipple can still snap at the threads if it is stressed, as can a PVC compression coupling. But the sch 80 nipple and PVC coupling could be considered "permanent" in your situation if the ground is fairly stable so there is no flexing of the connection. Most Dresser couplings are satisfactory to bury, regardless of their material.

 

[Yersmay]

Question for HJ

HJ, can you explain the difference between a PVC compression coupling and a Dresser coupling? I looked up images online and to the untrained eye they appear to be similar. Thank you in advance.

 

[hj]

The Dresser coupling I refer to has 2 "draw bolts" which clamp the glands to the pipe, There are many other companies which make the same style coupling. You are looking at couplings with "compression nuts'' that tighten against the gland. These are sometimes harder to align and assemble, then get tight enough.