Connecting to water meter

[Gilles Guezille]

The local water company wants me to install a shut-off valve, a pressure valve, and a check valve, in a separate box from the meter. This is a brand new installation as the house was on a well before. I will be running 1" pipe to the house, thinking of using PVC unless there is something better out there.

1st question: is there a preferred order to install these 3 devices?

2nd question: there is a 3/4 inch pipe threaded at the end coming from the meter. I tried attaching a 3/4 FIP and it won't fit. Do I need an adapter of sort?

3rd question: is PVC OK? The distance to the house is 125 ft

 

[Sylvan]

How can anyone know what will work without knowing the supply pressure and local codes

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Terry]

Schedule 40 PVC is fine for a water service. Where I'm at, the meters are 3/4" female thread. Can you place a 3/4 nipple against what you have to see if the threads match?

 

[Reach4]

If you use PVC, make sure it is pressure rated.. Probably is, but there is DWV-only PVC in existence.
https://www.charlottepipe.com/Documents/PL_Tech_Man/ExpansionandContraction.pdf talks of thermal considerations.

SIDR polyethylene and PEX are other possibilities.
https://www.huduser.gov/portal/publications/pex_design_guide.pdf has some more info. PEX can be continued into the house. I would tend to not use PEX for long distance, but 125 is not that much. With poly or PEX, don't pull them tight. Instead snake them in the trench for thermal contraction reasons.

I would want the PRV at the house. I would want a valve at the house before the PRV. I think you will want another valve at the meter. I would want a boiler drain valve before the PRV so that I could hook a pressure gauge for purposes of future diagnosis.

You should measure the thread with a digital caliper, and/or ask them what the thread is. I am not a plumber or other pro.

 

[Jadnashua]

NC is likely to see some fairly big temperature swings, even buried below the frost line. PVC has a fairly significant thermal expansion. If you don't account for that, you can pull apart or fracture the pipe or fittings on a longer run...If using a continuous coil, follow the recommendation to NOT keep it all in a straight line, so it has a chance to move with the seasons. The company's design guide usually has a section on managing that...you really do want to read and follow that for long-term reliability. Copper has thermal expansion too, but not anywhere near as much as PVC.

 

[Gilles Guezille]

Thank you Terry. I'm going to the property today and try again to match the threads.

Schedule 40 PVC is fine for a water service. Where I'm at, the meters are 3/4" female thread. Can you place a 3/4 nipple against what you have to see if the threads match?

 

[Gilles Guezille]

The house is in Cartersville, GA, and the lowest temps we are seeing hear are 20 F.
I thin I'll be using 10ft sections as this is what is available at the big box stores here. I'll stop by a specialized plumbing supplies store and see if I can find something better

NC is likely to see some fairly big temperature swings, even buried below the frost line. PVC has a fairly significant thermal expansion. If you don't account for that, you can pull apart or fracture the pipe or fittings on a longer run...If using a continuous coil, follow the recommendation to NOT keep it all in a straight line, so it has a chance to move with the seasons. The company's design guide usually has a section on managing that...you really do want to read and follow that for long-term reliability. Copper has thermal expansion too, but not anywhere near as much as PVC.

 

[Reach4]

If you take a caliper, you could measure the OD of the thread.

If you took a piece of modeling clay, you could make an impression of a strip of the threads, and try to measure the thread pitch later. Or take a thread gauge with you.

 

[Gilles Guezille]

If you use PVC, make sure it is pressure rated.. Probably is, but there is DWV-only PVC in existence.
https://www.charlottepipe.com/Documents/PL_Tech_Man/ExpansionandContraction.pdf talks of thermal considerations.

SIDR polyethylene and PEX are other possibilities.
https://www.huduser.gov/portal/publications/pex_design_guide.pdf has some more info. PEX can be continued into the house. I would tend to not use PEX for long distance, but 125 is not that much. With poly or PEX, don't pull them tight. Instead snake them in the trench for thermal contraction reasons.

I would want the PRV at the house. I would want a valve at the house before the PRV. I think you will want another valve at the meter. I would want a boiler drain valve before the PRV so that I could hook a pressure gauge for purposes of future diagnosis.

You should measure the thread with a digital caliper, and/or ask them what the thread is. I am not a plumber or other pro.

Good info, thanks a lot!

 

[Gilles Guezille]

The piece of pipe left by the county water crew was a 3/4 schedule 80 that was a bit poorly cut; I was able to finally thread a 3/4 brass female fitting and all is well.

 

[Jeff H Young]

You got a lot of info already but just wanted to tell you as for the shut off valve you might want to ask who ever is requiring the check valve and shut off valve, where they want it at (likely at the meter) . pick their brain a little as geographical location , weather, and local inspectors and water districts have their own requirements .