Connecting Cast Iron to PVC w/ Mission Band

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Ryanfornkohl

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Hello, me again....so I have replaced my old cast iron soil stack w/ PVC. The cast iron OD was 4 - 1/8" so I took Terry's advice and bought a Copper to Cast Mission Band. The problem that I am having is in order to get the PVC pipe that is inserted in the San-Tee below to fit under the 4" cast I had to cut the PVC pipe 1" short of the cast. My concern is that the mission band is only 2" wide. Therefore it is only grabbing the PVC pipe by a 1/2" and the cast iron by a 1/2".

This concerns me because I have pulled a permit and the city will put it under a 10' water test. I'm worried that this connection will leak because the mission band is not making enough surface contact.

The only solution that I see is cutting the PVC pipe approx. 2' below the cast iron connection and installing a coupler and a second mission band by cutting the PVC to length and then sliding the mission band down and then back up to make the connection. This idea really does not appeal to me. But I don't think that there is any other way to decrease the 1" space between the cast and PVC.

Any thoughts or other ideas are greatly appreciated. Thanks
 

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Ryanfornkohl

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Note that the mission band is not connected as it appears in the picture. It is slid all the way up on the cast and is not connected to the PVC below.
 

Reach4

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I don't have an answer to your question about whether you have enough overlap or not.

If you are trying to butt two pieces, you would try to slide the rubber completely over the smaller diameter pipe. I would use hand dish washing detergent as a lube. You probably did that already, but you could not flex the PVC enough to get it into its santee with the top of the PVC temporarily above the bottom of the cast iron.

A second banded coupling is not a big deal. Being that it will be for the same size PVC on both sides, it is going to be in stock locally.
 

Ryanfornkohl

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I don't have an answer to your question about whether you have enough overlap or not.

If you are trying to butt two pieces, you would try to slide the rubber completely over the smaller diameter pipe. I would use hand dish washing detergent as a lube. You probably did that already, but you could not flex the PVC enough to get it into its santee with the top of the PVC temporarily above the bottom of the cast iron.

A second banded coupling is not a big deal. Being that it will be for the same size PVC on both sides, it is going to be in stock locally.
I don't have an answer to your question about whether you have enough overlap or not.

If you are trying to butt two pieces, you would try to slide the rubber completely over the smaller diameter pipe. I would use hand dish washing detergent as a lube. You probably did that already, but you could not flex the PVC enough to get it into its santee with the top of the PVC temporarily above the bottom of the cast iron.

A second banded coupling is not a big deal. Being that it will be for the same size PVC on both sides, it is going to be in stock locally.
Yeah I couldn't get it to flex since it is 4" PVC. Other options that I thought of would be to release the riser clamp that the cast is tied to on top of the wall so that it could drop an inch....not sure this is a good idea. 2nd option would be to slide the rubber boot on the mission band all the way up 4" cast and insert a 1" tall PVC spacer on top of the 4" PVC line connection to stack. Grrrr......thought I was about to be all finished up and now fiddeling w/ this now.
 

Ryanfornkohl

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https://www.lowes.com/pd/Charlotte-Pipe-4-in-Dia-PVC-Repair-Coupling-Fitting/50053715 could be useful. I have never used something like that, and I don't know if a gluing technique change would be needed. I presume it does not have the taper for the interference fit. Also, click Inbox above.
Do you have experience with the slip couplings? They make me a little nervous since they do not have anything to butt up against. I've never used one. I presume you would make your cut and slip over pipe and then line other pipe on top. After that I assume you would apply glue to outsides of both 4" pipes and slip the coupling up while rotating?
 
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