Connect yard hydrant into existing outside faucet

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JMingrone

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Without drilling a hole through my foundation, what would be the best way to pipe water from the faucet to the pvc stub seen in the picture? The stub takes a 90 degree bend under the pavers and goes to a yard hydrant about 25 ft away. I'm handy with plumbing, just unsure how to do this without it looking kludgey as its in a visible location.
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Jay


IMG_1490.jpg
 

Reach4

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How will you deal with freezing? You will have to plan to remove the water in that PVC pipe down to the frost line each fall. That could involve blowing out the water with an air compressor.

The best way to deal with what you ask would be to saw off the pipe in the basement that goes to that spigot. Pull the spigot and pipe stub out. Then run the new pipe through your existing hole.

What that new pipe would have on it, I don't know. Let's see if you buy into cutting out the existing spigot.

If you don't need something more permanent, you could adapt a hose to the PVC, and that would hook up to the existing spigot during the summer.

I am not a plumber.
 

JMingrone

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>>The best way to deal with what you ask would be to saw off the pipe in the basement that goes to that spigot. Pull the spigot and pipe stub out. Then run the new pipe through your existing hole.

A good idea, and I have no problem cutting out the old spigot and making the connection inside the house, but still need the spigot to feed the hose reel. If I put a PVC "T" where the stub enters the house instead of just a 90, I suppose i could add the spigot to the 3rd leg of the T, but what kind of part would work there that would look good?

As for drainage....I didn't mention it but from the base of the yard hydrant I plan to continue the line down a 60 ft hill to a spigot at a dock. We would just gravity drain the system in the fall (with the right venting rigged at the top).

Thanks.
 

Terry

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New plumbing codes would have an outside faucet with a vacuum breaker on it to prevent cross contamination.
For the yard hydrant you're better off not pulling off the end of the hosebib there.
 

Reach4

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If I put a PVC "T" where the stub enters the house instead of just a 90, I suppose i could add the spigot to the 3rd leg of the T, but what kind of part would work there that would look good?
Here is my concept. I don't know how to make it look good or be strong. Type L copper would be strong. Copper looks good.

In the fall, you would need to close the ball valve. Then drain the water at the low yard hydrant. If the lower part of the pvc is below the frost line, and you leave the hydrant open long enough, that could be enough. Then the yard hydrant drains into the gravel that you put in when you installed the hydrant.

If that ball valve does not have a drain port that you will open during the fall draining, you would want it tilted very slightly tilted as shown. But the tilt in the sketch is exaggerated.

Forget to do that, and you will have bad damage.
 

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JMingrone

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Thanks for the responses guys. So i'm just unclear what the vacuum breaker does. None of the piping from the house to the bottom of the hill is below the frost line so to drain the system at the end of the season i'll close the shutoff inside the house, open the house spigot, yard hydrant spigot and a drainage valve at the lowest point in the bottom of the hill (60 ft lower than the house spigot). This should gravity drain the water, no? (There is that small amount of water between the shutoff inside the house and the house spigot, but I think I can arrange to drain that by angling the pipe as suggested). So if the open spigot at the house lets air in to vent the line, what exactly does the vacuum breaker do? I don't have a problem installing one (or a spigot with one built in?), just trying to understand its function.
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Reach4

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Thanks for the responses guys. So i'm just unclear what the vacuum breaker does. None of the piping from the house to the bottom of the hill is below the frost line so to drain the system at the end of the season i'll close the shutoff inside the house, open the house spigot, yard hydrant spigot and a drainage valve at the lowest point in the bottom of the hill (60 ft lower than the house spigot). This should gravity drain the water, no?
Doing what you say would not drain any pipe that is lower than the output of the yard hydrant spigot.
 

JMingrone

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I made a diagram of the system which would’ve clarified things but unfortunately it turned out too big to post ( grrr!). Anyway, think of the system as an elevated tube of water with a spigot at the top and drain valve at the bottom - open both ends and water falls out, right? So what’s the function of the vacuum break? Home Depot doesn’t carry them. I can probably find something at a plumbing supply house if necessary, or required by code, but what does it do?
 

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So what’s the function of the vacuum break?

A vacuum break prevents water from a hose from siphoning back into your drinking water. It's a one way valve. Water goes out to the yard, but can't siphon back into your drinking water.

All new hosebibs have vacuum breakers built in.
Irrigation for a yard uses either the simple vacuum breaker if its higher than the heads, or a reduced pressure double check valve.

They sell timers for irrigation at hardware stores, and most are run off the old non-vacuum breaker hosebibs. It's not the best way to do it, but it is a common way.
 
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